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This is a project that you can do on the cheap with minimal parts (some to most of which you may already have). I had been trying to think of ways to build some rollerskis ever since the dismal ski season left me wanting. You will need either ski or hiking poles to make this project work, and since this should only be attempted on concrete, as these are essentially elongated inline skates, ski poles or hiking poles with shock absorption must be used to help propel and balance you.
Before I get started, let me be clear: ski-skating is the dry-land adaption of the nordic skiing styles, and is how cross-country skiers train in the warm months. There are two techniques that will define how you build and ride your ski-skates, which I will discuss later on.
Here is the reason you should make these: it is insanely good exercise. Depending on the style of ski-skating you use will depend on what you work the most. You can use the classic cross-country style or the normal nordic style which a longer skate is better for. You can also choose the skating cross-country style, which is what I've choosen. I will say you will have to choose which you want and then build around that. Do not think you can make one ski for both. Also, the reason you are building instead of buying them is they are very easy to build as long as you have access to a drill and saw, and even the most entry-level person could build a working pair. A professionally made pair will run you around 300 dollars with bindings for real ski boots. I opted to take old soccer cleats, remove the front studs, and permanently tack them down, allowing the heel to move free as is necessary for this technique.
Watch this if you want to learn about and develop rollerskis for the Classic technique
http://www.youtube.com/user/k2nicol#p/u/31/k_l9QY4C5gg
Watch this if you are more interested in the skate-style of cross country.
http://www.youtube.com/user/k2nicol#p/u/30/T2DZunroNoc
I suggest before you do this you do a little research into it so you understand everything required of you physically and in the construction before you invest in it. It is easy to build, but not necessarily easy to master.
Also you cannot do anything more than EXCERSIZE in the model I provide or anything similar, don't think you can either offroad, go on rough terrain or try doing stunts or other dangerous things in these, as they will simply not hold up. Always wear head protection even after you have adapted to this, and I suggest knee, elbow, and possibly wrist and hand protection as well. Especially if you don't live in a flat area like Indiana...
Before I get started, let me be clear: ski-skating is the dry-land adaption of the nordic skiing styles, and is how cross-country skiers train in the warm months. There are two techniques that will define how you build and ride your ski-skates, which I will discuss later on.
Here is the reason you should make these: it is insanely good exercise. Depending on the style of ski-skating you use will depend on what you work the most. You can use the classic cross-country style or the normal nordic style which a longer skate is better for. You can also choose the skating cross-country style, which is what I've choosen. I will say you will have to choose which you want and then build around that. Do not think you can make one ski for both. Also, the reason you are building instead of buying them is they are very easy to build as long as you have access to a drill and saw, and even the most entry-level person could build a working pair. A professionally made pair will run you around 300 dollars with bindings for real ski boots. I opted to take old soccer cleats, remove the front studs, and permanently tack them down, allowing the heel to move free as is necessary for this technique.
Watch this if you want to learn about and develop rollerskis for the Classic technique
http://www.youtube.com/user/k2nicol#p/u/31/k_l9QY4C5gg
Watch this if you are more interested in the skate-style of cross country.
http://www.youtube.com/user/k2nicol#p/u/30/T2DZunroNoc
I suggest before you do this you do a little research into it so you understand everything required of you physically and in the construction before you invest in it. It is easy to build, but not necessarily easy to master.
Also you cannot do anything more than EXCERSIZE in the model I provide or anything similar, don't think you can either offroad, go on rough terrain or try doing stunts or other dangerous things in these, as they will simply not hold up. Always wear head protection even after you have adapted to this, and I suggest knee, elbow, and possibly wrist and hand protection as well. Especially if you don't live in a flat area like Indiana...
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Which way you gonna burn them calories? Classic or skate?
If you watched the Olympics religiously this winter like I did, you may have seen the Nordic relays and races. Basically, the classic skiers operated in pre-made straight tracks that ran along the entire course, while skate skiers skated on groomed flat surfaces in their sweeping v-motion (similar to an inline rollerblade).
Skate-
You will need to mount your shoe in the very middle to add stability. These do not need to be very long, so the length of the chasis shouldnt exceed 2 feet. I'm a big fella so I maxed out at 2 feet, a bit longer than a normal skate. This gives me the weight in the skate itself I need to make my boot flex and allow me to push through the stride.
Classic-
If you choose the classic technique, look to the photos of models that have shoes mounted near the back. This style operates in a straight line, so long skis that spread you out and makes the skis strides longer are best; definitely over 2 feet, but not anything more than 3. The reason this style works with the foot mounted to far back is you will always have a foot flat down and rolling solidly forward, so it's less of an issue than if you were using the skating method.
The next step I will get to how to assemble these babies.
If you watched the Olympics religiously this winter like I did, you may have seen the Nordic relays and races. Basically, the classic skiers operated in pre-made straight tracks that ran along the entire course, while skate skiers skated on groomed flat surfaces in their sweeping v-motion (similar to an inline rollerblade).
Skate-
You will need to mount your shoe in the very middle to add stability. These do not need to be very long, so the length of the chasis shouldnt exceed 2 feet. I'm a big fella so I maxed out at 2 feet, a bit longer than a normal skate. This gives me the weight in the skate itself I need to make my boot flex and allow me to push through the stride.
Classic-
If you choose the classic technique, look to the photos of models that have shoes mounted near the back. This style operates in a straight line, so long skis that spread you out and makes the skis strides longer are best; definitely over 2 feet, but not anything more than 3. The reason this style works with the foot mounted to far back is you will always have a foot flat down and rolling solidly forward, so it's less of an issue than if you were using the skating method.
The next step I will get to how to assemble these babies.
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Thanks for the effort, but your article is really incomplete & for that reason it kinda sucks. I hope you had some success with your roller skis. I'd like to make some, but really your article doesn't provide much help.
Sorry man.
-Steve