I hang about 20 bikes on the side wall but this rack is for the ones on the floor or some of them. Things working the way they do I'm looking to make another but to work this out right now with store bought stuff to get the bugs worked out and to make it easier for others to make theirs.
It really doesn't take but a few hours if you have everything ready. There is no need to stress out over this build, it's pretty basic in the build. Sizes can change to suit yourself but this is a good starting place to get yours up and running.
Step 1: Safety and Tools and some Fasteners
The tools are pretty basic.
A circular saw with a good blade so you won't be fighting with it.
A cordless Screw Gun is nice but a variable speed drill is OK.
A hammer for any nails.
Screws and or nails of the proper length.
Construction glue is optional.
Step 2: Bought Parts
six 2x4's eight feet long
cheap bike hooks (12)
a pair of 3" caster wheels
a pair of 3" swivelling with brakes
some plywood for braces
I'm not liking paying this much. The wheels can be had at Harbor Freight for less. The 2x4's could have been reclaimed wood.
Step 3: Measurements
The sides are cut this length to allow for the length of your bikes, the bike hooks, and the extra space below the hanging bike.
The Hook Bar and the Bottom Bar are this length for reasons of spacing. At 13'' the handle bars don't touch that much. I load the bikes from both sides, alternating the bikes. You can space yours hooks closer together if you want to make the rack shorter or to add more bikes to it.
The Top Bar is 3" longer than the Hook Bar. What ever you choose for your hook spacing remember that the Top Bar will be 3" longer than the Hook Bar.
The Bottoms are the feet of the rack and their length seems to make the rack stable. You could make them shorter if you like.
Step 4: Setting the Sides on the Bottom Feet
Step 5: Plywood Braces on Sides and Bottom Feet
Don't go tromping on site and think you are going to get what you want. There are many dangers and laws that are in play here. They are also busy trying to make a living and your first contact might be some helper who can't help you. It's best to scope out the site and figure who the boss is and approach him at the end of the day when everyone is leaving. He may be in a rush to get to the lumber yard and may not be ready for a chat. Most times he'll get out of his truck and get what you need but other times he may say the site is closed for the night and to see him tomorrow. I would. Ask if he has any discarded window cut outs that would fit your needs. Polite goes a long way here.
Or you can buy some handy panels from the lumberyard. Half inch ply works well.
Cut the plywood to dimensions shown or near their size and attatch them to the sides and bottom feet as shown in the picture.
Step 6: Setting up the Bottom Bar
When you get both ends screwed or nailed attatch the Bottom Bar to the Sides and Feet as the picture shows.
Step 7: Setting up the Hook Bar
These two are nailed or screwed and glued if you choose to use glue. At this time the Top Bar will extend an inch and a half over each end.
Now is a good time it put the bike hooks in, spacing them as determined before. These were 13". You may want to drill a small pilot hole to ease the screwing in but don't over do the pilot hole.
UPDATE MARCH 5 2011:
I have changed the spacing on my rack to 10.11 inches per hook without changing the length of the hook bar. This is very close to 10-1/8" per hook. Start at one end and make a mark at 5". From the first mark start to space them at 10-1/8" all the way to the end where you will get about a 5". You hang the bikes the same by hanging bikes every other hook on one side and filling in the spaces on the other side. I have a few custom bikes that have high rise bars or beach cruiser bars. These bikes had to be moved around in a combination of trial and error till they all hung without touching one another.
There are 9 bikes now where there once was 6 bikes. This and the fact that some of the bikes are 30 to 50 years old weigh quite alot. There is a slight sag in the top bar and hook bar which is normal for the weight. I don't have a concern for this now because it should be able to handle the weight. If it shows a sign of faliure I can always put another 2X4 along side of the hook bar an make a doubler out of the pair by nailing or screwing together and into the top bar.
Step 8: Setting the Top Bar
I nailed Top Bar but you can screw yours on.
Next I attatched small plywood gussets to the top and bottom corners, four in all.
After this you can tip it over, one side at a time, and attatch the wheels. One end gets the straight rolling wheels and the other side gets the locking swivel wheels.
Step 9: The Final Product
I hope this works out for you. Enjoy.