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Tool boards are a better way to organize tools you commonly use.  Tool boxes force you to open up drawers and dig to find the tool you want.  It wastes time and you can't tell if a tool is missing until after an exhaustive search for it.

A tool board allows you to locate the right tool at a quick glance.  By design, every tool has its place and is well organized.  That's why many of the top makers use them.

Step 1: Materials

My tool board is built using high durability materials because it is used daily in a prototyping environment and needs to be washed down frequently.  

You can easily save $150 or more by replacing the Square hole pegboard and Triton durahooks with standard pegboard and tool hooks.

Also, please be aware that the Square hold pegboards only work with Triton durahooks and standard pegboards will not accept durahooks.  Make your choice.


I included a stacking bin in the BOM because I love having a place for odd tooling bits and such.

Step 2: Build the Frame

Open the structural drawing and build the frame according to the measurements.  This will give you the stability you need to move the unit around when it is loaded down with tools.

Take note of the position of the 3 way 90 Tees, I positioned them so that the open ends were at either side of the tool board.


Step 3: Add Casters

To add the casters, I first cut 2.5" sections of the plastic coated steel tube and inserted them into the 3 way 90 Tees.

The casters have a compression mechanism so that when you tighten the nut at the base of the caster, a rubber sleeve is forced outward to the sides.  It shouldn't take much effort to tighten it enough that it will not come out from the tube.

Step 4: Attach the Pegboard

Whether you decide to use the expensive but super durable Triton pegboad, or a less expensive version, you will need to attach the board to the frame.  I simply used long fasteners and drilled through the tubing.

Step 5: Load Up With Tools

Attached your hooks and load up your tools.  I don't bother to screw the pegs down because my shop has a smooth floor, but if you take it outside or work on unlevel ground, you might want to.
<p>Great idea! I've been looking for something just like this. I have a few questions.<br>You list pvc pipe but used steel pipe fittings. Can you really mix the two? Seems like the fittings are meant for their steel pipe which is not as thick. And the end caps you list also seem to be for use with steel pipe.<br>Also, you list two different types of casters. Which kind did you use, and how did you attach them to the bottom posts?<br>Thanks for posting this project!</p>
<p>Thank you so much for catching that. I would hate for anyone to have purchased the wrong tube. I have updated the Bill of Materials with the correct plastic coated steel tube.</p>
<p>Thanks for the quick response! Did you have any thoughts on the questions I had above about the casters? I'm curious which you used and if one of the kinds is better. Also, I can't tell exactly what part you used where you attach them to the frame.</p><p>Thanks for any further help on this.</p>
<p>I don't know where my head was at. I only used the swivel stem casters. I cut a short length of the plastic coated steal, about 2.75&quot; for each leg and inserted the stem. By tightening a nut at the base of the stem, it compresses a rubber sleeve which expands and fills the tube. Once tightened, it's not coming out.</p><p>I will update the BOM accordingly. Thanks again dcherni.</p>
<p>Thanks for taking the time to answer all my questions and make updates to your instructions. Can't wait to build one of these.</p>
<p>Post pics if you do. Just an FYI, I've seen the Triton square hole peg board on Grainger.com in Blue, Yellow, Tan, and White. I like red because it stands out so much.</p>

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