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A rolling pin rack is a handy addition to a baking or pasta-making kitchen. That over-sized dowel
won't eat up drawer space or find its way to the floor.
If you aren't in the market for that heart-shaped, wrought iron variety, a wonderful substitute
can be whipped up for under 10 bucks.
I took this design from one I saw in restaurant in which I once worked.

Step 1: Materials

I found all of this at a small hardware store and there are many sizes of U-bolts.
The U-bolts I chose fit the style of rolling pin I have, a tapered "French style", but any pin with thinner ends than middle will work with this rack.
The small U-bolt should be wider on the inside than the diameter of the end of the pin and narrower than the middle of the pin.
The large U-bolt should simply be larger than the thickest part of the pin.
U-bolts are measured with 4 numbers; the gauge of the rod, the length of the U, the width of the inside of the U and the length of the threads. The U-Bolts I picked are a bit too long so it sticks off the wall but that is just an aesthetic issue. I'll just list what i used. It should be easy to adapt as necessary.

Materials:
one 1/4" x 5" x 2 1/16" x 3" U-bolt
one 1/4" x 4" x 1 1 1/16" x 2 1/2" U-bolt (with brackets, optional)
four 1/4" nuts (both bolts should come with two nuts, so eight, total)
one 1" x 4" x 12" piece of pine
four 1 1/2" drywall screws (not in the picture, but you know screws)

Tools:
drill
5/8" bit
1/4" bit
3/32" bit

screwdriver bit
wrench

Step 2: Drill Holes

Making the hardware fit.
I've put all of the drilling in on step because it will go fast once the measuring is all done.

The U-bolts need a little precision because of the 2 fixed ends on each.
The large U-bolt measures 2 3/8" from center end to center end; the 1" x 4" is really 3 1/2" wide after milling. A little arithmetic and the 1/4" bit drills 2 holes at 9/16" and 2 15/16"
repeating for the small U-bolt the 1/4" holes are drilled at 7/8" and 2 5/8"

I was tempted to just press the ends into the wood and use the impression as drill marker...
but that seems lazy, but it works too.

Counterbore holes tuck the 4 back nuts away and let the wood sit flat on the wall.
Using a 5/8" drill about a 1/4" through the back side of the first bolt holes.
(the pointy end of the bit fits nicely in the 1/4" hole and guides)

Mounting screw holes keep the wood from splitting.
Use a 3/32" bit to drill in the 4 corners. I spaced them 1/2" from the top and side edge.
Countersink in the front of the of the mounting screw holes with the 3/8" bit, this will help to prevent splitting too.






Step 3: Mount Hardware

This step should be a snap.
4 nuts go on the 4 ends of the 2 U-bolts,
then put the 2 brackets on the U-bolts (screw the nuts about an inch up to give room to feed through the wood)


Feed the Bolts through the holes far enough to screw the four back nuts;
the counterbore doesn't give enough room to work with.
Screw the back nuts just until flush with ends.

Press the back nuts into the counterbore of the wood

Tighten the front screws firmly.

Step 4: Mount on Wall

Find a good place in the kitchen and screw the rack to the wall.
Hang the pin.
Form follows function. I think it looks nice.
why not just screw a small hook, or eye with a string attached, to the side of the pin. Then, it can be hung from one screw or nail, and your materials cost can be decreased by 99%. Also more enviro friendly, stainless steel takes a lot of energy to produce, and this is kind of overkill. But, if that's not a concern, this still looks like it works well. As a compromise, the steel pieces could be replaced with wood with holes drilled into them, attached perpendicular to the wall plate.
Nice work! i suggest adding a final picture, to the beginning of your first step ( that is the thumbnail browsers will see)

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