Introduction: SACHS MOPED CYLINDER REMOVAL!

Picture of SACHS MOPED CYLINDER REMOVAL!

Do you need to remove the cylinder from your SACHS moped motor? It's easy....



I'll show you how to do it.

I made it at Techshop. The have a work bay where you can work on your car, motorcycle, moped... whatever! There are 3 of them around the SF Bay Area, so it's pretty convenient. There's others around the country and they have lots of tools and workshops. Wood, Metal, Fabrics, Electronics and more. It's rad.

Check it out here:                 www.techshop.ws

word!

You'll need a 10mm wrench, a large flathead screwdriver, possibly a rubber mallet.

Step 1: Exhaust Off...

Picture of Exhaust Off...

Grab your trusty 10mm wrench and loosen the nut that connects the exhaust in the middle of the pipe. Then loosen the nut that connects the exhaust to the cylinder. It should wiggle off, but you can use a rubber mallet to persuade it if it's being stubborn.

Step 2: Spark Plug Booty

Picture of Spark Plug Booty

Pull the spark plug boot off the spark plug....

Step 3: Low Carb

Picture of Low Carb

Take off the carburetor. There's a flat head screw that you'll need to loosen, then wiggle the carburetor as you pull back on it.

Step 4: 4 Nuts

Picture of 4 Nuts

Grab your 10mm wrench again. There are (4) 10mm nuts in a box pattern that hold the cylinder down. Remove those suckers.

Step 5: Remove Duh Cylinder

Picture of Remove Duh Cylinder

After the (4) 10mm nuts have been removed, you can pull off the cylinder. It should come off easily, but if it gives you any trouble then lovingly tap it loose with that rubber mallet. If you can avoid tearing your base gasket, swell. It might tear and need to be replaced. Whatever. Pull the cylinder freeeeeee!

Step 6: Have a Looksie

Picture of Have a Looksie

Okay, your cylinder's off. Now what. Might as well have a look around in there, I guess? When your piston came from the factory, it hade beautiful lines runnung along the piston. Are they still there? Those will wear off after a while. If you still got em, "YAY". There should be NO LINES going up and down the piston. If you got those "BOOOOOO"!

Feel around inside the cylinder with your finger. Should be shooth. No burrs or scoring or gouges. That's bad. When your cylinder came from the factory, it had "crosshatches" neatly marked on the cylinder walls from honing. Are they still there?

How do your piston rings look. Are they still there? Not broken? Springy on the piston, not stuck in the groves?

Grab the connecting rod and pull on it. shouldn't be any play there. That would be bad and we would cry.

Step 7: All Done....

Picture of All Done....

Okay, that was fun. Let's put it back together. Don't break the piston rings, now. They should close onto that little dimple in the ring grove. It's there, trust me. Replace the base gasket if you need to. Put the exhaust, booty, and carb back on. Don't over torque stuff. Now go ride that beast!!!!

Comments

etlerd (author)2012-12-17

Step six has contradictions. You say the cylinder walls should be smooth, but that if you have burrs or lines its bad. Then you go on to say it was manufactured with crosshatched lines, which I assume is good since they probably meant to do that. Might want to address that potential confusion. It'd be neat if you also explained what those features are for, or if they're bad, explain why.

About This Instructable

2,791views

5favorites

License:

More by droidy_pendejo:Changing a Moped Brake Cable!PUCH E50 CLUTCH REMOVALMOPED OIL CHANGE!?!
Add instructable to: