Surface-mount technology is prevalent in smaller circuit boards and often uses reflow soldering (solder paste & controlled heating) to affix the components. In this Instructable, I will share with you how I made a simple, efficient, and helpful jig for soldering SMT circuit boards in bulk.  I built this to speed up my production time for one of our products at work. I will first share my design of the jig and it's construction. Following that will be a step-by-step demonstration of how my SMD production jig works.

- Since I made this for a custom printed circuit board, the jig will obviously require modifications to be appropriate for the specific PCB that you are using. My primary purpose of this is to share the general idea and basic design of my jig.
- An essential part of the jig is the stencil. My stencil was cut out of Kapton(R) and shipped to us by an online service. Although, I imagine you could make your own stencil using a Laser Cutter on a solid sheet of 2-3 mil polyimide. I am investigating this presently.
- Another essential part of my SMT soldering process is our DIY reflow system. I'll leave that for a different Instructable but it is essentially a PID temperature controller hooked up to a 1550 Watt Black & Decker toaster oven.  There are also several other ways to reflow solder paste such as using an infrared lamp or a hot air gun/pencil.

Step 1: What You'll Need:

- Thin sheet of wood, ~2-3 sq. ft and 0.125"-0.25" thick. (The size and thickness is completely dependent on the size and the thickness of your PCB and the quantity of PCBs you want to produce per batch. I used a 14.5" x 13.5" sheet of wood that was 0.2" thick.)
- Graphic design software that can make vectors. (I used CorelDRAW at my local makerspace Maker Works, Ann Arbor. Inkscape is an open source alternative.)
- Laser cutter. (I used the 50 W Epilog Laser at Maker Works, Ann Arbor. Check online for your nearest makerspace.)
- Wood glue
- 4 small clamps
- 2 large hardcover books (or similar large flat object that can sandwich the jig when clamping)
<p>Question:</p><p>Could you turn off the air pulse on laser engraver &amp; &quot;etch&quot; IR heat directly onto the SMT component or component leg/pad? </p><p>This way you could dictate exactly where the heat it applied &amp; allow devices that are more sensitive to heat to be used on the same PCB :)</p>
<p>Very good question. I haven't tried it but I believe that it could be possible with some determination and ingenuity. </p>
Well done! Your toaster is modified as <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/how-to-transform-your-old-electric-oven-into-a-mod/" rel="nofollow">mine</a>!
Thank you!

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More by billbillbill:SMT 'Solder Paste Stencil' Production Jig using a Laser Cutter 
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