This is a “SPIRAL LED CHANDELIER” with 240 LED’s working on AC current.

It looks very decent when you switch off all the room lights at night.

Gives a soft light throughout the room and you can use it while watching TV.

Hang it in the Dining room and have a candle light dinner.

This is a sister model of my instructables “LED CHANDELIER” posted earlier.

Step 1: STEP-1

Take a piece of Mild Steel wire of 1/8 inch diameter and 12 to 14 feet long.

Wind the wire into a spiral with a hook at the top.

This is used as a support for the LED Necklace and the Transformer.

See the Photograph for guidance.
<p>Multiplying Factor of 1.4 used in STEP 2 is for AC. Is the same Multiplying factor of 1.4 applicable for DC supply? Satpathi</p>
<p>Multiplying Factor of 1.4 used in STEP 2 is for AC. Transformer to find out the numbers of LED to be used in one segment. </p><p>For DC you do NOT need to do this because you already know the DC voltage, so divide the LED voltage 3.5 by the DC voltage and you get the number of LED per segment.... </p>
<p>Multiplying Factor of 1.4 used in STEP 2 is for AC. Transformer to find out the numbers of LED to be used in one segment. </p><p>For DC you do NOT need to do this because you already know the DC voltage, so divide the LED voltage 3.5 by the DC voltage and you get the number of LED per segment.... </p>
This is awesome, man! Good job!
Thanks Pal..........
Thanks Pal..........
wow...this is really epic....my wife gonna love it for the dinning room....if I ever have the patience to make something like this....
This thing is epic. But I dont think my parents would let me put this up anywhere if I built it. Well, my mom was looking for a new lighting fixture for our dining room. Nah, she still wouldnt.
Hi TOCO,<br>Tell your parents that this is a VERY SAFE Project as it runs on only 12 volts.<br>Getting Shocked Dose not arise.
Oh, Im not worried about that. I just dont know where to put it if I built it. I have worked on plenty of dangerous things before. I dont have anywhere close to an outlet either. for some reason my house has a lack of electrical outlets by my standards. Im sure that it probably has more than most houses.
&nbsp;yaar deepankar how have you joined the leds in zigzag motion?<br /> <br /> kucch aur use kiya hain kya uske saath or bas directly 2 leds ko unke connectors ko ek saath solder kar dia hain?<br /> <br /> chandelier&nbsp;accha hain.. but din me utna hi bhadda hain :) well how uses it during the day anyways.. accha project hain.. will be making soon as i finish up with my aieee... but usme ill put alternate color leds :)<br />
Step 3 ka photo dekho,<br /> Hum ne perforated hardboard ka use keya hai jo LED ka support deiya hai soldering ke leya.<br /> LED ko hole me dal do, phir uska legs ko bend karo aur solder karo.<br />
haaaa haaaa haaaaa<br>L..D ko hole me dal do, phir uska legs ko bend karo aur solder karo.<br>lolzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Hole mein dalna is very easy nahain?
&nbsp;samajh gaya.. accha hain.. dhanyawaad.. sab log spanish etc me baat kar rahe the.. toh maine socha kyoun na main bi apni matra bhasha ka prayog karu idhar :-)
Tum ne bedi samajdari ke baat ke.<br /> Main Bangla, Hindi aur Oriya ma bhe baat kar sakta huin.<br />
&nbsp;aami o baangla bujhte paari :-) aami aulpo aulpo kore bolte o pari..
WELL&nbsp;DONE.<br />
Nice project and just keep having fun.
Interesting design, Dipankar. <span class="short_text" id="result_box"><span style="background-color: rgb(255,255,255);" title="LEDs son algo a lo cual a&uacute;n no me he atrevido a enfrentar."><br /> <br /> LEDs are something which I have not yet dared to face.</span></span> <span class="short_text" id="result_box"><span style="background-color: rgb(255,255,255);" title="Cada vez que intent&eacute; hacer algo con ellos, quem&eacute; varios, as&iacute; que por eso les temo">Every time I tried to do something with them, I burned several, so that's why I fear them</span></span>
Rimar, <br /> Do not worry I will send you some lessons in LED and you can do it.<br /> It is very easy once you understand the concept.<br />
hi,Dipankar<br /> so do I, also give me the&nbsp;concept. my id is <a href="mailto:redote@hotmail.com" rel="nofollow">redote@hotmail.com</a><br /> thanks for yr help
you need to use resistors if you aren't.&nbsp; The average power supply will give way to much current for an LED (even a microcontroller can supply ~40mA of current which is enough to fry an unprotected LED)<br />
nice spiral...<br /> <br /> but i am not understand in step-2 <br /> 1.4 come from ?<br /> <br /> <p>&ldquo;....16 volts transformer without load shows 18 volts output.</p> <p>So 18 x 1.4 =25.2volts...&ldquo;</p> <br /> <br />
See my answer to <a class="entryListTitle" href="http://www.instructables.com/member/maxwelltub/" rel="nofollow" style="padding-right: 4.0px;padding-left: 4.0px;"><strong><font size="3">maxwelltub</font></strong></a> where I have&nbsp;explained &nbsp;the 1.4 puzzle.
&nbsp;Fantastic project! I am going to make something similar with my own flair! One question...Have you considered using a capacitor for current limiting and&nbsp;omitting&nbsp;the transformer? Put enough LED's in series to divide up the voltage. This could add to your creative possibilities.
Dear DAG 1030,<br /> Capacitor will not work on AC and I want it to work on AC.
Try looking up capacitive reactance. In an AC circuit, capacitors and inductors will limit current. You can then divide your voltage between the LEDs to an acceptable level. <br /> <br /> An excellent tutorial: <a href="http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_4/2.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_4/2.html</a><br />
Dear DAG1030,<br /> Thank you for the link, will go through it.
Well you should say &quot; Conduction Proof&quot; not Insulation Proof. <br />
Thanks for the correction.<br /> English is not my mother toungue, mistakes are bound to happen.<br />
LEDs have an inherent death-wish. They are supposed to be connected to a FIXED-CURRENT circuit, not a fixed-voltage circuit.&nbsp; What happens is, in a fixed-voltage circuit, the LED will produce some heat when lighted. When its temperature increases, the LED's internal resistance will reduce, therefore the current (ampere) will increase. (remember this simple formula?:voltage=current x resistance). When the current increases, the temperature will increase more, reducing the internal resistance further, therefore increasing the current further. And so forth.<br /> So, what you will see is, when you switch on your circuit, all will be fine at first. After a while, the LEDs will burn brighter. Further on, your white LEDs will change color, usually yellow, or greenish. And if you still dont switch it off, it will burn out very soon.<br /> With all due respect, sir, what you need are &quot;LED drivers&quot;, which are actually circuits which produces fixed currents, therefore eliminating excessive current in your LED circuits. You can actually build these &quot;LED drivers&quot; yourself. Maybe write an instructable on it? :)<br /> Thank you, Good instructable anyway!<br />
Hi drzcyy,<br /> <strong>Please read my answer to verence's comments and you will know the theory behind this Instructable.</strong> <br />
Yes, I fully understand your theory. Basically, you are merely halving the current by utilising an alternating current, and the the diode properties of the LED, ie one cycle of the alternating current drives this line of LEDs, then the other cycle drives the other line of LEDs.<br /> And yes, you are right, halving the current, halves the heat production. But that doesnt mean that the temperature doesnt increase. And when an LED heats up, it draws more current, therefore heating it up further. Maybe a good heatsink will alleviate this problem. Or an inclusion of a capacitor in your circuit will cap off the voltage peaks found in the AC.<br /> Take a look at this:<br /> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_power_sources<br /> under the topic &quot;Power Sources&quot;.<br /> There's a topic on &quot;Lighting LEDs on mains&quot; too. Good day.<br />
Dear drzcyy,<br /> I like to do things differently which is hard for the learned people to digest, but if it works for a long time without any problem then my work is sucessful though it may not be what the BOOK says.<br /> I have read all about LED;s in Wikipedia. Thanks for the link.<br /> I had posted my LED chandelier about a year back with the same circuit and to this day it is working very nicely without any LED blowing off, so I made this on the same principal and circuit in a bigger scale.<br /> Maybe my methods is unorthodox but I can garentee you that it woirks perfectly.<br />
&nbsp;perhaps wrapping ricepaper around the whole thing like a paper lantern could be a good way of hiding the transformer etc as i think during the day it looks somewhat unfinished.<br /> merely a suggestion
Could do that but the light will get dim.<br />
This would look rad with a semi-transparent t-shirt on it.<br />
looks sweet when turned on in the dark but a bit dodgy during the day. Maybe you could try covering up the wiring a bit more.<br />
Sirji, your i'bles are inspiring, economical and practicable ! <br /> <br /> I have 2 open requests now - pl make 2 more led i'bles -&nbsp; <br /> <br /> 1. a light sensor version for led light bulb, for use in living room and <br /> 2. a motion sensor version for the bulb, for waking up at in the middle of the night, for the bedroom.&nbsp; <br /> <br /> Most of us would REALLY appreciate ur combination of simplicity and effectiveness on these. it would also forward integrate ur existing projects !<br /> <br /> Do take ur time (though we would secretly wish otherwise !)<br /> <br /> reg<br /> ketan <br /> <style type="text/css"><![CDATA[/* */]]></style><style type="text/css"><![CDATA[P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12.0pt; MARGIN: 0.0in 0.0in 0.0pt; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman; } LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12.0pt; MARGIN: 0.0in 0.0in 0.0pt; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman; } DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12.0pt; MARGIN: 0.0in 0.0in 0.0pt; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman; } A:link { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; } SPAN.MsoHyperlink { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; } A:visited { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; } SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; } P { FONT-SIZE: 12.0pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.0in; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0.0in; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman; } SPAN.EmailStyle18 { FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: blue; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: Garamond; TEXT-DECORATION: none; } DIV.Section1 { page: Section1; } ]]></style> <div align="left"><font size="1">-------------------------------------------------------- </font></div> <div align="left"><font size="1">&quot;May the good belong to all the people in the world. </font></div> <div align="left"><font size="1">May the rulers go by the path of justice. </font></div> <div align="left"><font size="1">May the best of men and their source always prove to be a blessing. </font></div> <div align="left"><font size="1">May all the world rejoice in happiness. </font></div> <div align="left"><font size="1">May rain come in time and plentifulness be on Earth. </font></div> <div align="left"><font size="1">May this world be free from suffering and the noble ones be free from fears&quot; </font></div> <div align="left"><font size="1">---- Vedic blessing </font></div> <br />
this was pretty cool. i might keep it as a project idea. but its true that its more professional to do parallel n safer. but a great project.&nbsp;&nbsp; <br />
how come you only drew the red (+) wire going to the first led, surely both need to be connected to the first led in the circuit.<br /> <br /> Is there something I don't know or what?<br />
dude these are wired so 8 LED's act as one &quot;light bulb&quot;. So the black wire going into the last negative end feeds into the first as well. So these are groups of 8 LEDs wired in series and the 15 groups of 8 are wired in parallel. <br />
Groups of 8+8=16 -------(+8 &amp; -8 )<br /> 16 LED one set<br /> 16 x 15 sets<br /> = 240 LED's.<br /> 15 sets connected in parallel.<br /> RIGHT.<br />
k, i think i know, i don't fullt know what you are referring to at times, but i get the series thing, just doesn't lok like it's wired in series cus its no layed out how i imagine it to be in a circuit diagram<br />
Just a note:&nbsp; it is a bit dangerous for LEDs to be in series.&nbsp; If one of them fails and gets an internal short, all of the other LEDs in series with it will probably get blown out.&nbsp; much safer to use two rails and just have all of the LEDs in parallel.&nbsp; And make sure you use resistors<br />
Please see minutely that the LED's are interconnected so if one fails by chance the others will work.<br />
What he was getting at I think was if one LED blows, the others are taking up the current that is no longer being used i.e. the same amount of current through less LEDs. That said, used responsibly LEDs normally last for quite a while before they fail.
While I'm normally&nbsp; the one who makes sure that you overprotect your circuit, ...&nbsp; well killersquirell11, ... I can't see a problem here. (At least no big one.)<br /> <br /> I never saw a LED fail on the short side. Normally the fail towards the open side, i.e. R -&gt; infinity. So a chain of LEDs will go dark but nothing else.<br /> <br /> <em>All LEDs parallel in two rails (one +/- and one -/+)? <br /> </em>Yes, would work. But...<br /> a) if one LEDs fails on the open side -&gt; no problem, just one dark LED<br /> b) if one LED fails and is shorted -&gt; the power supply is <strong>completely</strong> shorted for this rail --&gt; not nice!<br /> c) most important: you would need a power supply with a voltage that is close to the forward voltage of the LEDs (maybe around 3..4V) but a <em><strong>VERY </strong></em>high amperage (all LEDs would be in parallel!)<br /> <br /> <em>Use resistors? </em><br /> Yes, a resistor is necessary to limit the current!<br /> And there is not a single resistor in this design, is there?<br /> Yes, there IS! Apart from the fact that all wires have a resistance, there is always the source impedance, i.e. the <em>built-in</em> resistance in the power supply. Of course, this resistance is most often not known. <br /> So you will have to test, how many LEDs parallel/serial your power supply will drive. Check the data sheet for the LED about the forward voltage at a recommended current and divide the power supply voltage by that value. That should be the number of LEDs in one chain. How many chains you will be able to drive? Divide the current of your power supply by the current per LED chain. Of course, that would give only some approximate values, but a good start for the tests.<br /> Yes, you would be on the safe side with using some resistors to stabilize the current, BUT you would burn a lot of energy (literally).<br /> <br /> So, before you build your chandelier, do the math and build a test version using the LEDs and power supply for the real design. Check voltage over the LEDs and the current flowing through them against the data sheet. And check that the power supply doesn't get hot.<br /> <br /> Have fun<br /> Verence<br /> <br />
ALL MATHS DONE.<br /> NO RESISTOR REQUIRED. (NOW OR EVER)<br /> EXPLAINED BELOW..................<br /> This is very well Explained by my friend QS.<br /> <br /> <style type="text/css"><![CDATA[p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0.0in; font-size: 12.0pt; font-family: Times New Roman; } p.MsoBodyText, li.MsoBodyText, div.MsoBodyText { margin: 0.0in; font-size: 12.0pt; font-family: Times New Roman; color: red; } p.MsoBodyText2, li.MsoBodyText2, div.MsoBodyText2 { margin: 0.0in; font-size: 12.0pt; font-family: Times New Roman; color: blue; } div.Section1 { page: Section1; } ]]></style> <p class="MsoNormal">Intro Using AC with LEDs (Part 1)</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Recently I came across a high quality transformer selling for under $1.00, so I bought a few of them. The reason they were so inexpensive was the fact that their output was AC only, while most consumer products required well filtered DC.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">This Instructable is put together with the goal of getting AC-transformers working with LEDs without diodes and capacitors. I will show enough maths here so the concept is applicable to most other AC-only transformers.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Interestingly, many Black&amp;Decker Dust-Buster transformers are AC only, and they are well suited for conversion, since many only use 1/2 of the output (half-wave rectification) only.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: red;">step 1Working the numbers</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The subject transformer was made for many AT&amp;T cordless phones, it is rated for 110v/60Hz and has a <span style="color: red;">10VAC 500mA</span> output.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">First, we have to be aware that the 10V rating is known as the RMS voltage, and is the effective average power of the sine-wave. The maximum voltage, which we will subject our LEDs to, is about 1.4 times higher.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">We can demonstrate this by hooking up our transformer and taking some measurements.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The second image shows 10.8 VAC, which the <span style="color: red;">unloaded output</span> of the transformer. So we should expect a peak voltage of <span style="color: red;">1.4 x Vrms or 15.3v</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: blue;">&nbsp;</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Next we add a simple diode with a smoothing capacitor and measure the voltage across it: <span style="color: red;">14.5VDC.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">This number is about .8v less than our calculations because the <span style="color: red;">diode has a voltage-loss across it of .8V</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoBodyText"><span style="color: blue;">This is one reason we try to avoid diodes because each one inherently loses (as heat) a bit of power - .8v is 25% of the power for a 3.2v LED.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So, we will be using <span style="color: red;">15.3 volt</span> as the basis our calculations.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: rgb(255,102,0);">step 2Getting light</span></p> <p class="MsoBodyText2">We know that most white and blue (and UV) LEDs range between 3 and 3.6 volts. So by dividing our PEAK voltage by an average LED voltage, we get an idea of the number of LEDs our transformer can support:</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: rgb(255,102,0);">15.3 / 3.3 = 4.6, which we round up to </span><span style="color: blue;">5</span><span style="color: rgb(255,102,0);">, giving about </span><span style="color: blue;">3.1v</span><span style="color: rgb(255,102,0);"> per light.</span> But remember, that AC has an identical NEGATIVE cycle! Which means we can add a mirror circuit that work on alternate phases.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The advantage of using voltages to start our calculations is that, as long as we stay with similar LEDs, and stay within its operating voltages, the current will stay within safe limits.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">So, by adjusting the number of LEDs in use, we can handle most AC transformer outputs.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Now a quick check of the voltage shows that it is still at 10.8VAC. Our LEDs are only using a miniscule portion (4%) of the 500mA capacity of the transformer that...</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoBodyText2">We can multiply the light output up to 15 times just by adding chains of 10-LEDs arranged the same way across the supply! Imagine running 150 LEDs in an vast array off one tiny transformer. Pure simple direct drive all the way.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: red;">step 3The pitfalls</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">One safeguard is that we have limited the drive to our LEDs to a very safe level - it will only reach its rated peak once per cycle. In fact it will be off completely when the opposing chain is lit. So we can expect extreme longevity from this arrangement.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The fact that each chain is off for half the time means there will be some flicker, which you can see in the photos below, taken with a high shutter speed.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">By alternating on and off rows, the effect is minimized, and is no worse than using fluorescent lighting.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: red;">step 4Some variations</span>.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Sometimes, you cannot get the right number of 3.5v LEDs for what you need. Then you can 'cheat' by substituting an amber LED in each chain - they operate around 2.4 volts, so that allows you to fudge your numbers a bit.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">And about those Dust-busters - if you applied our method to their wall-warts WHILE the unit is charging, you may well find that one chain of LEDs never lights - this is because they only use half their circuit to charge the unit. Think of using the OTHER half of the cycle for LEDs as free power.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">You can also adapt this method for DC supplies - but make sure you always measure the actual output first! Commercial units are notoriously bad for making up numbers.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: red;">step 5Recapping</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">So, to find out what a transformer can support:</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Measure its output:</p> <p class="MsoNormal">- If it is AC, use the V-AC scale on your multimeter, and multiply the results by 1.4 to get V-peak</p> <p class="MsoNormal">- If it is DC, use the V-DC scale read out V-peak.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">The number of <span style="color: red;">white (or blue)</span> LEDs it can support is:</p> <p class="MsoNormal">- Vpeak / 3.3 and round up to the next integer. (E.g 4.2 is 5)</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">(Use V-peak / 2 for <span style="color: blue;">Red, Orange and Yellow</span> LEDs)</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">That is the number of LEDs you can put in a series to operate off the transformer safely.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoBodyText">For AC circuits, you will need to duplicate another chain in the opposite polarity.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">LEDs can be any current, as long as they are all the same, and the transformer has the current (A or mA) to support it.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Note: AC transformers can also have a VA rating instead of amps - just divide that number by the volts to get amps.<br /> <br /> I HAVE USED THE SAME FORMULA IN MY OTHER INSTRUCTABLE <br /> &quot;&nbsp; LED CHANDELIER&quot; See it and decide. It has been working for more than 6 months without any PROBLEM.</p> <br /> <br />

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Bio: Now I am a retired person, who enjoys life and making small things to pass the time keep myself busy.
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