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SR70A1 Precision Sniper Rifle System. Great range, accurate, powerful, versatile, you name it.
It is a ramrod rifle. It uses #64 rubber bands, and looks great.

Also, I have now made a folding bipod for this gun. Now all I need is a hammer/firing pin guide because at 5+ bands, the black rod begins to bend and break. In other words, I need something like the Z35's guide.

Pros
Ramrod rifle
No jams if made correctly
Easy-detach scope and barrels
Smooth True Trigger
Fires any rod
No mags
Any accessory can be attached
Lefty support
Comfortable
Scope with dot sight; accurate.

Cons
May be too small for some people
No mags
Grip may be uncomfortable for big hands
Barrel can droop, but fixed by a rubber band.
Well...that's all I can think of.

-------------------------------------------Notes from the Author--------------------------------------------
Sorry folks, I'm afraid this will be my last work uploaded. This gun, along with the ible, will be an open source for inspiration, upgrades, and new models for the K'nex builders that will follow.

I, Prodo123, hereby grant the right of usage of this Instructable to every individual. I also grant the right to use the name "SR70", "SR70A1", "SR70A1 PSRS", "SR70A2", and "SR70A2 PSRS" to every individual whom has upgraded and/or modified this gun. I hereby grant the permission of modification, reproduction, reconstruction, and deviation of this gun, Instructable, name, and video to every individual who does so, for as long as they give credit to the source. I hereby permit the use of this Instructable as inspiration and without credit to every persons interested. Those who do not comply with this permission grant will be reported and/or dishonored, and is not limited to a ban, a suspension, and/or the deletion of the Instructable. I, Prodo123, grant all of these rights, and the consequences that follow, to all individuals.

Long story short, you may use this Instructable to modify your SR70A1 PSRS, SR70, or create a new model/variation of the gun, for as long as you give me, Prodo123, credit.

Also, you may use this Instructable as inspiration, and you may do so without giving me credit (If you do give me credit, I give you a cookie :3)

It's been a good time here at Instructables.com. I'll hang around, but sorry, no more K'nex for me.
-Prodo123-
 
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Step 1: Butt, Grip, Trigger, and Faceguard.

Tailored for me. Might not fit you, but I would assume it would. It's really comfortable. I would guess that people would ask why is the butt empty? There used to be a monopod there, but it was useless and I got rid of it.

Step 2: Barrel Part 1 - Firing Chamber

This is where the magic happens - where the hammer hits the transfer rod. Also includes additional faceguard, scope mount, hammer, and rubber bands. This step takes for granted that everything you do is SYMMETRICAL. which means what you do to the left, you do to the right.

Step 3: Barrel Part 2 - Transfer Rods

The heart of this gun are the transfer rods. They're like floating hammers, or the balls in the middle of a Newton's cradle. All they do is transfer the force of the hammer to the bullet, which goes FLYING. This step takes for granted that everything you do is SYMMETRICAL. which means what you do to the left, you do to the right.

Without this section of the barrel, the gun will NOT FIRE. This is necessary, do not skip any step on this part or you will get broken pieces or a non-functioning gun.

Step 4: Barrel Part 3 - Bullet Housing and Assembly of the Whole Barrel

This is where the bullet goes in. Many people get confused where it goes, it's a muzzle-loader, not a breech-loader.

Step 5: Body

The cross between a solid and a flexi-body from SR70 is this. Super comfortable while extremely sturdy.

Step 6: PST-70 Scope

Precision Sniper's Tool PST-70 scope. Dot sight. You can put other scopes on, but I recommend this.

My new Quick-Detach, Non-Zero-Disturbing, Angular-Mount mounting system. Angled so that it looks straight at the iron sight for maximum accuracy, while being really easy to take off to use the sights itself. The mount is fixed by tan connectors on the barrel, so the rod doesn't move around when you look at the scope. The only downside is the dot is sorta out of focus, either you look at the target or you look at the scope, but the dot is optional.

How to attach the PST-70
1. Insert white rod on the end of the scope into the end of the mount, in the gray connector.
2. Clip on the Y-connector to its corresponding location.
3. Push the gray rod all the way forward until you can't push it in anymore.
That's it, easy and simple.

Step 7: Assembly!

FINALLY! You have made all the parts, now t o put em together.

Step 8: DONE! How to load and fire

Picture of DONE! How to load and fire
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A. Pull the hammer back. It should be easy, especially with the new handle.
B. The trigger should pop up into the slot, effectively and smoothly blocking the hammer. If it doesn't, push it up.
C. Put ammo in at the MUZZLE. That's the END of the barrel. Recommended ammo is yellow rods, red rods, and blue rods, but it will accept any type of ammo, either with a filler or a pusher rod. I personally prefer yellow and red rods, either without tip or with a Oodammo-type tip or a ball bearing tip.
D. Aim and fire. Not that hard.

If that was too hard for you, here's a video on how to do it.

The video has an experimental bipod, similar to the one on the Galil Marksman's Rifle. Some tips would be nice.

Future accessories to come. Send me pics of your finished guns, I will post them. If you have an idea for the bipods, PLEASE TELL ME!

Pic 1: Beta Prototype
Pic 2: MOD-A Prototype
Pic 3: Mberg's SR70A1 PSRS
Pic 4: Prodo123's SR70A1 PSRS, with prototype bipod and mount rail
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kingofknex4 years ago
http://www.instructables.com/id/Knex-Sniper-Rifle-SR-70-Instructions/step2/The-Barrel-Part-2/ if you are having trouble use the old one it exactly the same :)
prodo123 (author)  kingofknex4 years ago
Also, they're not the same. They're radically different.
If you ignore my comments, then I promise you your gun will be raining w/ broken pieces.
prodo123 (author)  kingofknex4 years ago
NO. DO NOT DO THIS. NEVER, EVER.
juneapaluna5 years ago
dope.
prodo123 (author)  juneapaluna5 years ago
Pot.
weed
My pieces are too tight so i just used mini knex rods as ammo. Now the rang is so:
460.jpg
*range
huh i don't get it can someone help me :c ?
This is a GREAT gun but could you make a video on how to make it the pictures are just not enough.
Smasher5554 years ago
I built this a month ago. But the barrel is too high friction. My bullets wont even come out of the barrel. I figured out a way to reduce the friction in a barrel. First, take a drill and one your pieces. Then run the bit around the hole of the piece to make the hole slightly bigger. Ta-da!
yeah mate i did the same, you have to loosen or stretch out the grey connector so its looser if you have a newer knex set thats probably why
prodo123 (author)  Smasher5554 years ago
what the heck??? you built it wrong. my barrel's so low friction, bullets fall out if you tip it down.
Sorry, my pieces' holes must be smaller. I haven't built a gun that works before that has that kind of barrel. A few days ago I built a gun with a zero friction barrel with the Z35 rear barrel, mag,and the SR70A1 PSRS trigger and scope. It shot about 10 ft : (
prodo123 (author)  Smasher5554 years ago
yep, looks like either you used micro k'nex or you built it wrong
I don't use damn "micro k'nex", i dont know what the hell is wrong with me and my pieces!!! !
prodo123 (author)  Smasher5554 years ago
Probably metric problems, then. I needed a 3.5mm plug for my headphones, bought an 1/8" plug, and it ended up not fitting.
Dude guess what? I built this again and it WORKS! But the only problem is, I think I dry fired it, I had a second transfer rod behind the original ( red rod ), the grey one shot through the gray clip, then the red rod went into the gray clip!!! Any way to fix it?!
prodo123 (author)  Smasher5554 years ago
Take off the rubber bands, hammer, and the scope. Undo the barrel support that's directly below the hammer. Then, pull the entire barrel off the stock. Disassemble the barrel from the muzzl (This might take a lot of effort) and replace the broken pieces. Reassemble the barrel, and follow the instructables on how to reassemble.

Please, try not to dry fire. It's really bad for any projectile weapons, including firearm, bows, slingshots, etc.
The piece actually not broken, but I fixed it an easier way. I just took off a blue that held the grey clip that holds the transfer rod. And also, I kind of screwed it up by building it wrong so I had to add a red rod and a yellow rod.
I use the old pieces, but still they should be made correctly.
knexsim3 years ago
lol i built it and shot it then reloded the it snaped it slef into 3 pices plzz explanin cba rebuilding but still would like to know y it did that
great gun but i cant work out how to attach the part with the grey rod down the middle to the rest of it. 5/5 so far btw
don't worry- fixed it + finished it
money19963 years ago
he nice gun
but how many white or black connectors do you REALLY need (that you cant replace for a blue connector)

prodo123 (author)  money19963 years ago
I haven't counted, because I modified the gun to be so rock solid that I can't take it apart...

But the point is, the gun depends on the hole in the middle of the white connectors to function. That's what makes up the barrel of the gun. If you replace them with blue connectors, you'll be blocking the barrel.
So, you really shouldn't replace ANY of the white connectors with blue connectors. The only white connector I see that can be replaced without compromising safety and performance would be the ones on the faceguard/stock.
mberg5 years ago
on the eleventh pic starting from the right, whats that black thing
i think it is half a ball joint but i cant see it very clear
prodo123 (author)  kingofknex4 years ago
NO. No ball joints in the barrel, EVER. This will break it, no exceptions.

Sorry, Firefox, Chrome and IE9 are all malfunctioning at once. Can't add notes.

That would be a gray connector. DO NOT USE THE OLD ONE FOR ANY REASONS. IT WILL SHATTER THIS CONNECTOR. This gray connector has been covered with electrical tape on the SIDES (not the faces, where there's holes and make the connector thicker). The tape should be applied after the gray rod has been clipped onto it, and it should reach around the clip.
kingofknex4 years ago
can anyone who has built this please help me out and post another pic on part 3 pic 11 because it so blury i cant see
Furloy4 years ago
even though you guit knex awhile ago how you did it is stupid. you make it seem like its sooo dramatic but really no offense, you never made anything too good. sorry, later.
dansdoc4 years ago
does any one have a peice count (i wish every gun had one)
prodo123 (author)  dansdoc4 years ago
If you need a piece count, you shouldn't build k'nex at all. Most ibles for K'nex do not have a piece count, and those who do require ridiculous amounts of pieces (e.g. Z35's yellow connector count is 220+)... Also, I am not wasting my time taking my master gun apart and counting how many pieces there are. Sorry, but build at your own risk.
i didnt mean you i meant anyone :-P
prodo123 (author)  dansdoc4 years ago
yeah, no one's gonna post a piece count. They have lives to live.
so i dont care they WILL :-P
prodo123 (author)  dansdoc4 years ago
wow...just build the damn thing if you wanna. I'm sure you'll have enough pieces.
well your a bunny (\_/) (o.o) (> <)
prodo123 (author)  dansdoc4 years ago
fail bunny
xio prodo1234 years ago
no u (>o.o)># and here is a waffle
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