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INTRO:-

This is a Desk top Emergency light consuming very little current, and gives a very bright light.

It is suitable for places having ELECTRICITY POWER CUTS, such as developing countries and third

world countries. I have used 80 EXTRA BRIGHT white LED's, a 6 volts dry RECHARGEABLE

Lead Acid battery, with an inbuilt battery charger.

A powerfull Emergency torch also can be made by useing the same circuit.

(see photographs of different Models.)

Step 1: STEP-1

PART LIST.

1- Metal Box 5"L x 5"B x 3"H = ONE. ( Can be of any dimension or shape)
2- PVC (Switch Board box) 10"L x 8"B x 2.5"H =ONE.
3- (220v AC to 9vAC) Step down Transformer 9v. 500 ml. Amps. =ONE.
4- Diode IN4007 DC. FIVE..
5- Condenser or Capasitor- 100mfd 25volts. =ONE.
6- Resistors 150 Ohms.=80 PIECES.
7- Resistors 390 Ohms.=ONE piece
8- White Extra bright LED 5mm. =80 PIECES.
9- Red LED (for Charging indicator) =ONE.
10- 7"L x 3/4"B x 1/2"H - Wooden batten. =ONE.
11- Small Metal Hinge. =ONE.
12- On / Off (small) SPST Switch. =ONE.
13- One Meter( 3 FEET) Electrical wire with 2Pin Plug. =ONE.
14- Lead Acid Battery (Dry type) 6 volts 4.5 AmH =ONE
15- Some thin wires for making internal connections.
16- TOOLS :- All types of tools for assembling Electronics circuit.

Step 2: FIXING THE LED's

STEP-2

Take a plane sheet of paper, then draw a graph of 10 by 8 = 80 points.

The spacing is up to you, but see that they are not too close because LED's heat up, 1" by

3/4" gap is OK. Paste this graph with paper gum on to the Cover of the PVC Switchboard Box.

Drill holes with a 5mm drill bit. (size of the LED's) Your LED light Box is ready for wireing.

Clean out the paper graph with a cloth soked in water.

NOTE:- See the Photographs for guidance.

Step 3: WIREING THE LED's

STEP -3

Each of the 80 LED's are soldered with a resistor of 150 ohms to their (-) Negative legs.

The LEDs are wired in parallel so they each should have their own resistor.

Then wire the LED's as shown in the photograph.

After wireing the LED's connect it to the 6 volt battery specified in the part list, to see if they are

all glowing or not. If some of them are NOT glowing then check for loose contact or dry solder.

NOTE:- See the Photographs for guidance.

Step 4: Wireing the Charging Unit Circuit.

STEP-4

Follow the CIRCUIT diagram and assemble the charging unit.

FIVE --D1 to D5 are Diodes. IN4007 DC.

ONE --Condenser 100mfd 25volts.

80 PIECES --Resistors 150 Ohms.

ONE --Resistors 390 Ohms.

ONE --Red LED (for Charging indicator)

The Positive line goes from the BATTERY to the LED panel through a SPST switch.

The charging unit is connected to the battery through a diode to stop back current.

The unit should be connected to the mains only at the time of charging the Battery.

Step 5: Assembling the Stadium Light.

STEP-5

Assembling the Stadium light.

In this photograph you can see how the whole circuit is placed and connected inside the Metal Box of 5" x 5" x 3". The NUMBERS below refer to the PARTS in the photo.

1--This is the leak proof Lead Acid Dry Battery-6 volts 4.5AmH.

2--The on / Off Switch is placed in the front side of the box.

3--The 220v AC to 9v AC Transformer.

4--AC to DC convertor and battery charging supply circuit.

5--The wooden batten covered with PVC tape which supports the LED light box.

6--Wires from the battery going to the LED light box through the on / off switch.

7--The AC mains cord (wire) connected to the AC Transformer.

8-- A metal strip to hold the Battery from moving inside the box.

9-- 3/16" size nut and bolt holding the wooden batten at right angle.

10-- The metal box with all the parts inside.

11--The Red LED Battery charging indicator light .

Step 6: FINISHING TOUCH

STEP-6

This is what the finished product will look like.

A little beautification has been done by sticking radium tapes and a PVC concealed wireing strip

has been screwed all around the LED to protect it.

I hope you like the show of this light.

I have already sold about 160 pieces of different models and sizes of this light.
<p>made STADIUM and it works fine.Not boxed yet. There is some crust buildup at Battery -ve terminal. Alligator clip used on -ve terminal also corroded. Battery is dry Lead Acid type. should I change the Battery or let it be. </p>
<p>The terminals of a Lead Acid battery tends to corrode so you should use some thin grease on the terminals.</p><p>First clean the terminals and then use some grease on it.</p>
<p>Diode D5 is to allow charging current in one direction only - into the Battery. Anode of D5 diode is towards the battery or away from it?</p>
<p>Thank you for pointing it out, I have corrected it and now it is OK.</p>
<p>assembled the Stadium. What is the Blocking Diode for and what should be the correct direction for it ? Can I charge a new Battery without led load ? </p>
<p>The Diodes are for converting AC to DC to charge the Lead acid Battery. You can charge the battery without the Red LED indicator.</p>
<p>what would a diy assembled 80 LED Stadium Light cost (<strong>in INR</strong>) compared to same type LED light in the the market ?</p>
<p>Half the cost.............</p>
Hi,<br>Sorry but in my opinion, all the schematic was wrong:<br>* on the right off your bridge it's positive so it mean you put (+) on the (-) terminal of the battery! <br>* if you change the orientation of all the diodes it will be correct<br><br>But, there is an other problem:<br>you use a 9V transformer<br>so it mean you'll have: (9 x 1.414) - 1.2= 11.5V going in a 6V battery!<br>Dangerous!<br><br>Regards<br>
A much easier, cheaper, and more efficient way to do this would be to use a few high power leds, such as a cree lm6. It has very high efficiency and puts out upto 1000 lumens. SSC P7 is also a good led.
hey frnd wt if we use 100ohm resistance instead of 150? wold this help in more bright light?
Yes the lights will be brighter but it will let in more current then required<br/>and the <strong>life of the LED's will shorten.</strong><br/>This is called overrunning the LED's.<br/>
You are the LED master!
Thanks Pal, But I don't consider myself to be a MASTER. As I dont have a collage degree I cannot be a Master. I use my brains and commonsense, and I learn fast. Thanks all the same for your compliment. See all my other LED Instructables.
in this circuit there is no protection of overcharge of battery. there is no mention as to what is its backup. further size of led is also not given. pl. specify.
Hi nand, Sorry as I am not a technical person I would not know about these things, but I can say practically that the back up is for a period of at least 6 to 8 hours. Charging the batteries for 4 to 5 hours will not overcharge it, as it is a very slow charger. LED size are all 5mm.
Thanks Dipankarji. Ur reply is in a very polite way which shows ur greatness. I m really impress with u.
Hi Nand, You must be an Indian, because only Indians use ji after the name. We Indian are always polite, that is our greatness. Thanks.
lol, someone's playing "Holier than thou". The design could be improved, using a lot less resistors.
Hi Gamernotnerd,<br/><strong>YES but it is S-A-F-E-R this way.</strong><br/>200 resistor costs less than a US dollar, To be exact Rupees 20/- only, in INDIA.<br/>So why be a MISER in your work.<br/>Make your own the way you want and be a Holier-than-thou.<br/>
It seems that if every 20 LEDs had a resistor with one equivalent resistor to replace 20 it would also work. I'm sleepy though, I probably don't make much sense right now.
Each LED having a resistor of its own is much safer than 20 with one resistor.<br/><br/><strong>In my design each LED has a resistor of its own.</strong><br/>As resistors are so cheap you can afford them for a safer design. <br/><br/>Why dont you try out your idea insted of giving theoretical ideas.<br/>Be practical man.<br/>
Looks professional.
looks like someone got they're hands on many 3d models and rendered it with anim8or
<a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Using_AC_with_LEDs_Part_3_The_BIG_light/">&quot;Using AC with LED (Part 3)&quot;</a> is (finally) up - with the BIG AC LED light!<br/><br/>Enjoy!<br/>
Very nice!
Just posted: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Using_AC_with_LEDs_Part_2_and_make_this_handy_/">&quot;Using AC with LEDs (Part 2)&quot;</a><br/><br/>qs<br/>
Hats off to you. WELLDONE. I am new to electronics and it is not my subject, still I could follow your Instructable. THANKS AGAIN.
Just replying to your question about USB lights, and I cannot access my inbox.<br/><br/>For lights under 150mA, my preference would be the USB - it is almost universal, and does not require hacking into the power supply.<br/><br/>The circuit I presented in <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/The_Super_efficient_USB_Light/">my 'table</a> can use up to 8-pairs of amber-white LEDs, similar to the image below, but I suggest staying under 6 to make sure it does not stress the USB port.<br/><br/>Of course, once you get the light working on a USB, you have basically a portable light - by using it with any USB charger available! See the other pic.<br/><br/>Let me know if there's anything I can help you with!<br/><br/>qs<br/><br/>
I built a similar unit a while back, using a 12v battery. It uses 20 leds in a 4 x 5 arrangement, which means I can use the light without any resistors (at 100% efficiency), which doubles the battery run time. The charger, seen in the background is a 15v wall-wart with a 200-ohm resistor, similar to one you used. I also chose to use a perf-board for assembly, since they are already drilled to exactly the width of the leds. I mounted the lights on the battery using a "gooseneck" which is the aluminum ground wire from house wiring. Then I got crazy. I moved up to a 140-led display (bottom of the last pic) that ran off 110v mains with just a 100-ohm (2-watt) resistor. No diodes either - I used 70leds for one cycle and 70 for the reverse cycle. Keep up the good work!
Good work, only lacking style. Put a little show into it. I am wondering how you run a LED on AC mains, without diodes? Keep it up.
I figured that, in an emergency, only the light mattered - not the packaging. Moreover, I've learned that I will never stop tinkering with them, so why put it together nicely so that I can take it apart again... and again? I am putting together a 'table for working with AC. Be up in a few days.
Please let me know when the AC table is ready. Thanks.
I've just posted <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Using_AC_with_LEDs_Part_1/">&quot;Using AC with LEDs, Part 1&quot;</a>. It's probably a bit obvious for you, but I wanted to cover some of the basics first.<br/><br/>I'll be posting more in the next day or so.<br/>
Very nice, I might try to build a couple of these some day for the inevitable zombie apocalypse. You think I'm crazy, but it's coming.
I agree with Rimar2000 entirely! Great instructable, and well written, I only saw a few spelling errors, but otherwise fantastic instructable. 4.5/5 stars
This is an excellent and <strong>important</strong> instructable. <br/><br/>It eeems easy to follow the steps, despite I am not an expert in electronics. THANKS, Dipankar. <br/>
Good post, well written, good diagrams. Great instructable!

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Bio: Now I am a retired person, who enjoys life and making small things to pass the time keep myself busy.
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