Samsung CLP-365w Laser Printer DIY Imaging Drum Unit Reset


Introduction: Samsung CLP-365w Laser Printer DIY Imaging Drum Unit Reset

This article describes how to get your Samsung printer working again without shelling out a fortune for a new Imaging unit. If you just want to know how to do do it, skip to the next step, the rest of this step is just an explanation of how I figured this out! Note that this worked for my CLP-365w printer but it may work for other similar Samsung models too. It will certainly work for any printer that uses the CLT-R406 imaging unit but I suspect they all use a similar technique to reset the page count.

The story:

Samsung produce a very nice range of domestic laser printers for the home, they're quite cheap too. However, they have engineered in some cunning ways to make money. All of the consumables for these printers (toners and the image drum) need to be replaced when the unit tells you, otherwise the printer will not print. So even if you manually fill up the toner cartridge, the printer still "thinks" it is empty and will refuse to print. I am not going to cover manual toner refilling here but there are plenty of guides around.

The other "consumable" on these printers is the so called "Imaging unit". It's a drum which is an essential component in any laser printer and it is used to transfer ink to the page in the printing process. To be fair, this component is a consumable, it will wear out eventually causing blurry or streaky pages etc. These Samsung printers have a kind of printing "odometer" that records how many pages have been printed using the current imaging unit. They also have a built in hard coded lifespan of about 5000 pages (i think...). So once we hit this page count, the red light of death illuminates on your printer and we get a lovely message saying "Warning, prepare new imaging unit". At first I thought, "ahhh its ok, it's just a warning, I'll carry on printing until it really needs replacing" - wrong. The printer literally won't print anything until you replace the imaging unit. So, I look online - wow £75! What a rip off! The ink cartridges for these things cost a bomb (so far I have just paid up but I will probably start refilling soon) but this is beginning to take the p*ss I thought!

I decided to take the Imaging unit out and examine it - surprise surprise, it looked perfect, not a single blemish or mark, hardly any dirt (not sure what a knackered one looks like to be fair, but this looked brand new to me). Also, the pages printed prior to this were perfect as well, there as never any sign of degradation.

A quick google search reveals many places offering to sell you a "reset chip" for around £15 with instructions, it's like magic, you just unfold it, plug it onto the imaging unit, close the lid and taadaa! The printer "thinks" you've bought a shiney new imaging unit an happily prints away.

I was about to punch in my card number and be done with it but then I watched the instruction video and took a closer look, I could see that this "reset chip" was really just a 30p resistor stuck to a piece of plastic. Cunningly, all of the photo's and videos of these chips seem to show it covered in a black lacquer so you can't see the coloured ribbons on them. Of course they've covered this up, they wouldn't want their little secret getting out! Well sorry guys, I know your game! These people are almost as bad as Samsung, packaging a 30p resistor up and selling it for £15!

After a bit of research, I discover how these things work. The imaging unit has a small removable plastic housing with 2 resistors in, one 200k ohm, and one much weaker 56ohm fusible type resister, in parallel. When it first powers up, the printer detects a low resistance. The printer passes a current though the drum unit and the small "fuse" resistor blows. From now on, when the printer powers on, it only detects the 200k resister so it knows this is not a new drum so the printer counts all the printed pages from now on. 2 years down the line, we hit the magic number and the printer stops working because it "thinks" the drum is now useless. So you go out and buy a new drum, it has the same 2 resistors inside, only the smaller one is not blown. You plug it in, the printer sees a low resistance again, it knows there is a new drum, so it resets the page count and then blows the new fuse and the cycle repeats. Now, if instead of buying a new drum unit we just replace the fuse, we can "trick" the printer into thinking we have a new drum unit. Simple. This is exactly what the £15 kits are doing, they are simply a new 56ohm fused resistor which you stick across the terminals.

Step 1: Crack Open the Front of Your Printer!

Open up your printer and locate the imaging unit. On my printer, it was at the bottom, below all of the toner cartridges.

Notice on the front of the Imaging unit a small black plastic housing with 2 copper terminals on it. It looks removable, and indeed it is!

Step 2: Remove the Imaging Unit Fuse Housing

Once you have located the fuse housing, pry it out.

I used a small flat headed screw driver. Careful not to break anything now.

Step 3: Examine the Fuse Housing

Take a look inside the fuse housing. It will either have one or two resistor components.

Older articles and guides show it having two, but mine only had one. I guess it doesn't need a fuse when it is first manufactured because the page count is already 0. At some point Samsung stopped factory fitting the second resistor.

Either way, it will definitely have a 200k Ohm resistor and optionally a blown fusible 56 ohm resistor. If you wish, you can remove the blown fuse resistor (if you can identify it). It doesn't matter if you leave it in place though.

Step 4: ​Find a Replacement 56 Ohm Resistor

Source a replacement 56 ohm resistor. I sourced a standard resistor rather than a fusible type. (This way I can reuse it many times to reset the page count.)

You should be able to get the resistor from an RS or Maplin (Radio Shack in the US maybe?) for about 30 pence or you could order one online. Heck you could probably salvage one from a broken electrical device - in fact some have reported this DIY fix working with 47ohm resistors - so if you do try to salvage one, it might just be that you need a very weak resistor, not specifically a 56 ohm.

Step 5: Piggy Back the 56ohm Resistor Onto the 200k Ohm Resistor

We need to get that new resistor in there with the 200k ohm briefly and power the printer on. I suppose you could solder it in permanently, this will basically reset the page count every time the printer turns on. But this is designed to be a fusible resistor that blows, so I don't know if there is any concerns about this component overheating if you do that. In my case, I just rammed it in the housing roughly and twisted the component legs around the existing one to form a connection. In the picture, the blue resistor is the 56 ohm one.

Now plug the fuse housing back in and power on the printer. Taadaa! It takes a while but it will reset and the red light will go out. Congratulations, you just bought new Imaging unit for 30 pence.

If this didn't work for you then try the following:

- Double check that your new resistor is making proper contact with the existing one

- Make sure the component legs aren't doubling back and making a short circuit.

- Make sure the resistor is the correct value. If you have a different model Samsung printer you could try different resistors. I don't think you can do much damage here, you're simply adding small amounts of extra resistance.

I then powered the printer off and removed my 56 ohm resister just in case there are any issues with leaving it in. I'll keep that bad boy, i'll probably need it again in 2 years ;)

Note that your imaging unit will genuinely need replacing one day (supposedly). But if like me your unit is still functional, then go ahead and apply this little trick.

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2 Questions


Are you sure its a resistor..? It might be a coil .. 56uH.. almost the same ohms (50) but it is only 1/4 watt, and it burns real easy..


Hi all. I
figured I'd throw my experience into the pit.

My Samsung CPL-325W also stopped working for no apparent reason.

Thought it needed toner and bought a Yellow and a Blue.

Sill nothing then research taught me about Imaging Drums and the time set issue.

Watched a video prior to finding this site advising to take out the top one of
the two resistors situated on the left side of the bottom tray, then as recommended
soldering a simple coper wire bridge in its place. Idea being: To reset the
timer. Seemed simple enough.

Switching the machine on, it to shut down immediately as if tripping a cut out

No change to the indicator function lights. Went back in the unit, cut the
bridge wire. Still didn’t work.

Then came across your idea laid here.

Bought a package of 25-50 ohm resistors, $3.00 (Same as in the picture posted above) Soldered that in as per instructions.

So now after I fire it up and lights sequencing ends I have a green light. That’s
better but still not working.

So the questions are.

* What do I do

* Do I buy new imaging drum. Is it possible that some circuitry has been
damaged causing it to still not work even with a now drum?

* Maybe I should reinstall the old resistor back in the unit and try that.

* If I buy a
new printer is there a Samsung model out there where I can use these new toner cartridges
I have.

Any ideas out there would be most welcome.


Many many thanks for sharing this trick.

Just tried it because got the message to replace the drum today (after approx 2 years since I bought the printer) and I got through! Problem solved :)

I have same printer as yours (CLP365), in lack of the 56 ohm I used two resistors 100 ohm each, in parallel. It worked great.

Many thanks again!

1 reply

no sweat, glad it saved you a small fortune too!

I bought my printer for $4 from a thrift store, missing the paper tray. That cost $80, and I ordered replacement aftermarket auto resetting toner cartridges for it. Loaded it all up, and then got "prepare new imaging unit". Thankfully Google found your page immediately.

Not having a 56k ohm resistor, I dug through my collection to find a 30 ohm 1/4W and a 22 ohm 1/2W resistor.. soldered them in series for 52 ohms, and installed this in the fuse box, for the printer to tell me "#C3-6520 open/close door". Hmm. tried this, no change.

I pulled the imaging unit out, in case it needed to be removed and reseated. Figured I would give it a quick clean while it was out, as it had some toner dust on it. I then noticed it seemed to be full of old toner.

I popped the circlip off one end, and slid the rod out from the drum, which allowed me to remove the drum carefully, with a soft cloth, so it wouldn't get scratched. The rest of the unit was full of toner dust. I would advise doing this clean outside.. I tipped the toner out, and shook the unit, and it just seemed to keep going forever. Eventually it stopped coming out mostly, I blew a bit more off it, then wiped it over with the rag, before reinstalling the drum, the rod, and replacing the circlip.

I reinstalled it and the toner carts back in the printer, but it was still giving me the C3 error. I popped the fuse box out again, and noticed that the 1/4W resistor was now quite black. I removed it, reinstalled the fuse box, closed the door., and away it went. Printing out the supplies information tells me that I have 100% of imaging unit life remaining and that it has done 1 page, of 16000.

I suspect this limit is in place due to the amount of toner that ends up trapped in the imaging unit. Considering they are $160 to replace, I'm very happy for you to have shared this trick with us!

1 reply

Another good tip for extending the life of the printer - thanks!

Thank you for this. The resistor I bought off eBay for peanuts has done the trick, saving me some money and keeping a perfectly good imaging unit out of landfill. Cheers!


Hi guys, i've done with a 51 ohm resistor, extracted of a broken mouse ;)

Worked perfectly using a 100 ohm resistor. I didn't even open up the resister holder, just slid the legs of the resister down the side of the metal contacts, power cycled the printer and I'm up an running again.

Many thanks for this - I was slightly worried that the procedure would be out of date, but it seems to have worked perfectly with my printer.

Thanks a lot. It worked for my C460W. You saved my day (and almost 100 euros)

Does anyone know whether this trick works with a Xpress C480W?

1 reply

It just worked on my C460W. I expect so.

Hi Dean,

This is terrific, and worked splendidly in my C460W. How I hate these scams by the printer makers. Thank you.


I have single-resistor C410W model. Had the imaging unit error.

The fix is even simpler than the author provides - no need for a new resistor. Just used short piece of solid copper wire to jump between the two copper terminals that the existing resistor connects to. Cut wire about 1" long, put two 1/4" 90 elbows and shoved behind the terminals for good contact. Took longer to pry out the fuse unit (hint - press down tab at top of fuse box with narrow flat screwdriver - there's a snap-in plug that holds it in - then just gently pry out).

Turned unit on and after about 5 seconds, error message went away and printer went thru warm up cycle and successfully printed (did not have to remove the piece of wire).

I made it! Thanks!!

I have a Samsung C460FW with a 100k Ohm single resistor. I rammed the 56 k in parallell with the 100k, put the holder back, turned on the printer and waited for some minutes. I turned off the printer, opened the front and saw some smoke :) !! Took out the holder, removed the burned 56 k and put the holder

back again. Turned on the printer and hoollalllaa...:) :) The printer works again.!

Brilliant! Thank You!

I had an almost worse scenario with my CLX-3185FW which is just over 6 years old and still on it's original Imaging Unit. It started showing "prepare image unit" which was fine as I had a genuine Samsung spare from when I bough the printer.

So, when the fateful day (today) came and it said "replace Image unit" and refused to print any more, like a good Samsung customer, I got out my replacement unit, read all of the instructions on replacing it to the letter and carried them out correctly. So, when I restarted the printer and it still said "replace Image unit" I was pretty surprised! I removed it and cleaned all of the terminals, replaced it and it still showed the "replace" error.

I then found your instructable and tried it out on the old image unit, I located the fuse/resistor carrier (on the right hand side on the CLX-3185FW) and it looked like nsoutter 's CLP 320, i.e. it had the "green bean". I shorted this out with a wire bridge, reinserted the carrier, re-inserted the image unit etc, powered up and Hey Presto! no errors and printing test pages fine!

I then did a printout of the printers usage logs (via the menus) and identified that the printer total image count was 24008 and the Imaging Unit life was 99% and 8 pages printed (and I had printed 8 pages since doing the fix!)

So, it seems that the Imaging unit life is 24000 pages! and not time related (as I've had the printer & original imaging unit over 6 years)

So, immensely pleased to have overcome this issue but completely P1$$ed Off with Samsung that they can get away with this outrageous falsification and misleading of the public!


I tried this both looped and soldered, with a CLP356W and it didn't work alas. I still have A Las Vegas like display flashing at me.

4 replies

When you have a CLP 365W with only 1 100 Kohm resistor. Place a piece of wire along to it (=0 ohm). Power it on - wait till the light turns green, and the small red lights starts blinking. Turn immediatly the power off. remove the piece of wire (let the 100Kohm resistor in place).

Power the unit on - problem should be fixed!

Mine has a single 100K resistor and so I tried the copper wire trick. When the unit went to the stage of green light blinking and the other (ink) lights cycling it automatically switched off - repeated this a few times. I then tried again and opened the door before it went off, removed the wire closed the door and it still said the unit needed replacing.

I also tried the 56K ohm trick previously. It went into "initialising unit" (or whatever it says) for about 10 mins. I eventually powered it off, removed the resistor powered on, no luck :-(

My Samsung C460FW Printer has only 1 100k ohm resistor. I tried your method but didn't work. Can you send me a picture how you did it, please. Or, what am I doing wrong?


Same here, will try the 0 Ohm trick above