This article describes how to get your Samsung printer working again without shelling out a fortune for a new Imaging unit. If you just want to know how to do do it, skip to the next step, the rest of this step is just an explanation of how I figured this out! Note that this worked for my CLP-365w printer but it may work for other similar Samsung models too. It will certainly work for any printer that uses the CLT-R406 imaging unit but I suspect they all use a similar technique to reset the page count.

The story:

Samsung produce a very nice range of domestic laser printers for the home, they're quite cheap too. However, they have engineered in some cunning ways to make money. All of the consumables for these printers (toners and the image drum) need to be replaced when the unit tells you, otherwise the printer will not print. So even if you manually fill up the toner cartridge, the printer still "thinks" it is empty and will refuse to print. I am not going to cover manual toner refilling here but there are plenty of guides around.

The other "consumable" on these printers is the so called "Imaging unit". It's a drum which is an essential component in any laser printer and it is used to transfer ink to the page in the printing process. To be fair, this component is a consumable, it will wear out eventually causing blurry or streaky pages etc. These Samsung printers have a kind of printing "odometer" that records how many pages have been printed using the current imaging unit. They also have a built in hard coded lifespan of about 5000 pages (i think...). So once we hit this page count, the red light of death illuminates on your printer and we get a lovely message saying "Warning, prepare new imaging unit". At first I thought, "ahhh its ok, it's just a warning, I'll carry on printing until it really needs replacing" - wrong. The printer literally won't print anything until you replace the imaging unit. So, I look online - wow £75! What a rip off! The ink cartridges for these things cost a bomb (so far I have just paid up but I will probably start refilling soon) but this is beginning to take the p*ss I thought!

I decided to take the Imaging unit out and examine it - surprise surprise, it looked perfect, not a single blemish or mark, hardly any dirt (not sure what a knackered one looks like to be fair, but this looked brand new to me). Also, the pages printed prior to this were perfect as well, there as never any sign of degradation.

A quick google search reveals many places offering to sell you a "reset chip" for around £15 with instructions, it's like magic, you just unfold it, plug it onto the imaging unit, close the lid and taadaa! The printer "thinks" you've bought a shiney new imaging unit an happily prints away.

I was about to punch in my card number and be done with it but then I watched the instruction video and took a closer look, I could see that this "reset chip" was really just a 30p resistor stuck to a piece of plastic. Cunningly, all of the photo's and videos of these chips seem to show it covered in a black lacquer so you can't see the coloured ribbons on them. Of course they've covered this up, they wouldn't want their little secret getting out! Well sorry guys, I know your game! These people are almost as bad as Samsung, packaging a 30p resistor up and selling it for £15!

After a bit of research, I discover how these things work. The imaging unit has a small removable plastic housing with 2 resistors in, one 200k ohm, and one much weaker 56ohm fusible type resister, in parallel. When it first powers up, the printer detects a low resistance. The printer passes a current though the drum unit and the small "fuse" resistor blows. From now on, when the printer powers on, it only detects the 200k resister so it knows this is not a new drum so the printer counts all the printed pages from now on. 2 years down the line, we hit the magic number and the printer stops working because it "thinks" the drum is now useless. So you go out and buy a new drum, it has the same 2 resistors inside, only the smaller one is not blown. You plug it in, the printer sees a low resistance again, it knows there is a new drum, so it resets the page count and then blows the new fuse and the cycle repeats. Now, if instead of buying a new drum unit we just replace the fuse, we can "trick" the printer into thinking we have a new drum unit. Simple. This is exactly what the £15 kits are doing, they are simply a new 56ohm fused resistor which you stick across the terminals.

Step 1: Crack Open the Front of Your Printer!

Open up your printer and locate the imaging unit. On my printer, it was at the bottom, below all of the toner cartridges.

Notice on the front of the Imaging unit a small black plastic housing with 2 copper terminals on it. It looks removable, and indeed it is!

Step 2: Remove the Imaging Unit Fuse Housing

Once you have located the fuse housing, pry it out.

I used a small flat headed screw driver. Careful not to break anything now.

Step 3: Examine the Fuse Housing

Take a look inside the fuse housing. It will either have one or two resistor components.

Older articles and guides show it having two, but mine only had one. I guess it doesn't need a fuse when it is first manufactured because the page count is already 0. At some point Samsung stopped factory fitting the second resistor.

Either way, it will definitely have a 200k Ohm resistor and optionally a blown fusible 56 ohm resistor. If you wish, you can remove the blown fuse resistor (if you can identify it). It doesn't matter if you leave it in place though.

Step 4: ​Find a Replacement 56 Ohm Resistor

Source a replacement 56 ohm resistor. I sourced a standard resistor rather than a fusible type. (This way I can reuse it many times to reset the page count.)

You should be able to get the resistor from an RS or Maplin (Radio Shack in the US maybe?) for about 30 pence or you could order one online. Heck you could probably salvage one from a broken electrical device - in fact some have reported this DIY fix working with 47ohm resistors - so if you do try to salvage one, it might just be that you need a very weak resistor, not specifically a 56 ohm.

Step 5: Piggy Back the 56ohm Resistor Onto the 200k Ohm Resistor

We need to get that new resistor in there with the 200k ohm briefly and power the printer on. I suppose you could solder it in permanently, this will basically reset the page count every time the printer turns on. But this is designed to be a fusible resistor that blows, so I don't know if there is any concerns about this component overheating if you do that. In my case, I just rammed it in the housing roughly and twisted the component legs around the existing one to form a connection. In the picture, the blue resistor is the 56 ohm one.

Now plug the fuse housing back in and power on the printer. Taadaa! It takes a while but it will reset and the red light will go out. Congratulations, you just bought new Imaging unit for 30 pence.

If this didn't work for you then try the following:

- Double check that your new resistor is making proper contact with the existing one

- Make sure the component legs aren't doubling back and making a short circuit.

- Make sure the resistor is the correct value. If you have a different model Samsung printer you could try different resistors. I don't think you can do much damage here, you're simply adding small amounts of extra resistance.

I then powered the printer off and removed my 56 ohm resister just in case there are any issues with leaving it in. I'll keep that bad boy, i'll probably need it again in 2 years ;)

Note that your imaging unit will genuinely need replacing one day (supposedly). But if like me your unit is still functional, then go ahead and apply this little trick.

<p>Many many thanks for sharing this trick.</p><p>Just tried it because got the message to replace the drum today (after approx 2 years since I bought the printer) and I got through! Problem solved :)</p><p>I have same printer as yours (CLP365), in lack of the 56 ohm I used two resistors 100 ohm each, in parallel. It worked great.</p><p>Many thanks again!</p>
<p>no sweat, glad it saved you a small fortune too!</p>
<p>I soldered a 56 ohm in place and switched on. Got the message <br>'invalid imaging unit'. Removed the 56 ohm and the printer fired up <br>ok. Checked the image count... 0! Admittedly the 56 ohm I used was 3W <br>so probably wouldn't blow.</p><p>I note a few people aren't sure on the value of their resistors... it's all down to knowing your colour codes! <br></p><p>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_color_code</p>
<p>Great thanks, worked on our C410w. Now I am trying to find a way to reset the counter on the Transfer unit belt, which i replaced with a new one and it didn't reset! Any ideas...</p>
Thanks worked a treat for me on a CLP310. Powered on with the new resistor wrapped round the existing one and waited a couple on minutes. Powered off and removed the new burnt out resistor. Powered back on again and bingo !
<p>Wow!!! You are gold.</p><p>Bought Samsung Xpress C460fw, after buying rebuilt toner cartridges and an imaging unit, then some ungodly thing that is impossible to remove or install that sits on top of the imaging unit, I bought a second one ($200, still a best buy), and used the former for repair parts. The new imaging unit is REDONE because too many people were buying the cheap resets. The imaging unit had a big empty space where the resistor housing was. And some new contraption built into the door. Rats!!! However, it still had the 2 prong piece in the door, so I wondered... Went and rescued my other imaging unit, and it sure had one!!! So, I took it out, it had 2 resistors, and I hadn't used it much, so I figured, what the hey, I'll try it. Perfection!!! Pushed it into the old imaging unit, it still said replace it, so I restarted twice, and all of a sudden, &quot;ready to copy&quot;!!! Whoo hoo; I bow down in the face of the guru!!!! Thanks!!! Maybe it will make it now until I retire in 2018!!!!</p>
<p>Hi BridgetB17,</p><p>Did you Samsung Xpress C460fw have only 1 resistor? Mine have only 1 resistor but not sure how many ohms. How can I tell? Thanks.</p>
I tried this both looped and soldered, with a CLP356W and it didn't work alas. I still have A Las Vegas like display flashing at me.
<p>When you have a CLP 365W with only 1 100 Kohm resistor. Place a piece of wire along to it (=0 ohm). Power it on - wait till the light turns green, and the small red lights starts blinking. Turn immediatly the power off. remove the piece of wire (let the 100Kohm resistor in place).</p><p>Power the unit on - problem should be fixed!</p>
<p>My Samsung C460FW Printer has only 1 100k ohm resistor. I tried your method but didn't work. Can you send me a picture how you did it, please. Or, what am I doing wrong?</p><p>Thanks.</p>
<p>Salve a tutti, saprete dirmi per caso se ce una procedura da fare dopo aver salvato la nuova resistenza? Io ho una samsung clp365w e ho eseguito le istruzioni da voi elecate.</p><p>Grazie in anticipo!!!!</p>
<p>Many thanks. It helped a lot!</p>
<p>Did it! Works like a charm. Thank you!</p>
<p>In my case with CLP-365W, it's still red light after I installed the 56ohm resistor and smelled the burnt. Then I powered off the printer and pulled out the burnt resistor, I powered the printer on again and this time it shows green light. So please make sure, as other posts noted, you remove the burnt unit and then the printer is ready to print.</p>
<p>Hi Dean.Wild ! Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial .. I have done it successfully and using My Samsung CLP-365. I have used a 47 ohm resistor. I didn't get that &quot;small black plastic housing with 2 copper terminals&quot;. May be the shop keeper or any other person took that. Anyway, I just filled up that blank space with foam/cork sheet. And I connected tow pins simply with resistor by hand. After that I closed the front cover and started My Samsung CLP-365. First I smelled something has been burning inside the printer. I was scared. But, then immediately the RED light blinked one time and then it turned into GREEN. I got smile on My face. Then I turned off My printer and removed that burnt dead body of 47 ohm resistor. Finally I can use My Samsung CLP-365 for your article. So, thanks a lot once again and I am inviting you to join with Me one day to take lunch. :) Please SUBSCRIBE My YouTube Channel and Share with your friends ..<br>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR_r9sNFWDw</p>
<p>Thanks, this printer drives me crazy with constant need of supplies, this was great relief and very easy to do.</p>
<p>Many thanks, it worked flawlessly on a CLX-3305W with a 2W 50ohm I had at hand!</p>
<p>I resolved with this!! /// <a href="http://i.imgur.com/Qx6nsjQ.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i.imgur.com/Qx6nsjQ.jpg</a> //// thanks for the help :D :D</p>
Many thanks for your post! I've managed to get the same result on the CLP-320, with just an exception: on the same path as the fuse, there's also a small green &quot;bean&quot;, whose function is unknown to me, but I had to connect it otherwise the printer starts and loop on the boot sequence.<br>You made me spare a lot of money and time, thanks a lot!
<p>Thanks for sharing this trick! I have a Samsung 3305FN printer and it gives two errors: &quot;replace ITB - image transfer belt&quot; and &quot;replace fuser unit&quot;. So, is there a way/method to reset ITB and fuser unit counters for this printer? ITB counter and fuser unit counter, both, show something like 20389. I think life of ITB and fuser unit by Samsung is 20000 pages. I need help, thanks !</p>
<p>Thanks for sharing this trick! I have a Samsung 3305FN printer and it gives two errors: &quot;replace ITB - image transfer belt&quot; and &quot;replace fuser unit&quot;. So, is there a way/method to reset ITB and fuser unit counters for this printer? ITB counter and fuser unit counter, both, show something like 20389. I think life of ITB and fuser unit by Samsung is 20000 pages. I need help, thanks !</p>
<p>Job done. Worked like a dream. Don't worry if it doesn't appear to work, wait for the smell (that shows you have good connections on the resister) then switch off, remove the resister and switch back on again and the red light will have gone, replaced with an exciting green one. 29p well spent</p>
<p>Job done. Worked like a dream. Don't worry if it doesn't appear to work, wait for the smell (that shows you have good connections on the resister) then switch off, remove the resister and switch back on again and the red light will have gone, replaced with an exciting green one. 29p well spent</p>
<p>Job done. Worked like a dream. Don't worry if it doesn't appear to work, wait for the smell (that shows you have good connections on the resister) then switch off, remove the resister and switch back on again and the red light will have gone, replaced with an exciting green one. 30p well spent</p>
<p>Hi there and thanks for excellent advise on my CLX-3300 which warned that it wanted a new CLT-R406 imaging unit albeit printing perfectly. I then jammed a 56 Ohm 1/4 watt between the two rectangular copper plates on the unit, tucked it away upwards under the B/W toner cartridge, closed the door and started up the printer. It went into a few &quot;wait...warming up&quot; loops and I could smell burnt plastic. Got nervous but then suddenly it started to &quot;Calibrate print density&quot; and after that I shut it down and removed the still hot resistor. Started up again and got green light and no more warning messages. Printed a demo page and...YIHAAA...=)...! it works perfectly. Resistor was not totally burnt through, still shows 45 ohms resistance.Hope this helps/</p><p> the two </p>
<p>This worked on my C410W Express, thanks for sharing and saving us money. Small businesses like ours need all the help we can get.</p>
<p>Hey all, to make this trick a little easier, you don't even have to wrap the 56 ohm resistor around the 200k ohm resistor. Just wrap the 56 ohm resistor on the two prongs that touch the copper contacts of the imaging unit, on the hinging door of the printer, without plugging the fuse box in. Then, close the door, power up the printer, wait a minute, then turn it off again. Open the front of the printer again, remove the 560 ohm resistor, and plug the fuse box back in. Close the printer and it should work like new.</p>
<p>you said you removed the new 56ohm resistor after you put it in. . . so did you have to put it back in every time you used the printer? or was it a one time &quot;reset&quot; that allowed the printer to continue afterward?<br><br>We got a 47ohm because our Radio Shack didn't have 56ohm. . . but they DID have 67ohm. The 47ohm didn't work, so we may try the 67 ohm. (I have the Samsung CLP-365W, and it was printing fine, but now it won't, since the red light came on :( and gave me the imaging unit error)</p>
<p>ok, it worked after I powered it off and back on again. . . now just not sure if I should remove the new resistor or leave it in??? :)</p>
<p>I did it with 5 resistors of 270 ohms (in parallel) and the printer works perfectly after two reboots (and after removing resistors).</p><p>Thanks you ! How can I offer you a coffee ? :)</p>
<p>Hi, am I understanding right that it did not work UNTIL you removed the resistor you had piggybacked on?<br><br>We got a 47ohm and it didn't work, but it is still in there, so I wonder if I should power off and back on a couple more times, then take it out and try it. ??? They didn't have a 56 ohm, but we are going to try a 67 ohm</p>
<p>ok, it worked after I powered it off again. . . so now I'm not sure if I should take out the new resistor or leave it in. I'm just so excited it printed something! :)</p>
Thanks. It works. I couldn't find fusible resistor in singapore. I used 0.25w 56 ohm resistor instead.
<p>hey where in singapore did you get it?</p>
I got it from sim lim tower (not square). Look for shops that sell resistors.
Fantastic trick! You solved my problem. It worked perfect on printer Samsung Xpress C410W using two reistors connected in sequence one of of 47 ohm and one of 10 ohm. I put the resistors in, put everything in its place, closed the door and turned on the printer. A few seconds and green light went on, did test printing and it worked. Turned of printer taking away plug, took away the resistors and the plugged printer back on and now its fine. Thank you so very much.
<p>I have an Xpress C410W and the trick worked. Added the 57 ohm, it burned in some seconds, took it out again, power on and all lights were green.</p><p>You made me save over 100 Euro! Thanks!</p>
<p>I have an Xpress C410W and the trick worked. Added the 57 ohm, it burned in some seconds, took it out again, power on and all lights were green.</p><p>You made me save over 100 Euro! Thanks!</p>
<p>I have an Xpress C410W and the trick worked. Added the 57 ohm, it burned in some seconds, took it out again, power on and all lights were green.</p><p>You made me save over 100 Euro! Thanks!</p>
<p>your are really a great guy!</p><p>thanks are not enough for you.</p><p>it went exactly like <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/mikko.suihko" rel="nofollow">mikko.suihko</a> describe.</p><p>I had the 56 ohm resistor ( I am electronic engineer)</p><p>less than 20mn and the printer is like new and I saved USD 90.00 (about)</p><p>keep going this way, you will go far</p>
<p>An almost unused printer, found in recycling station now can be presented as a ''poor man's '' Christmas gift. My daughter for long was asking for a color laser. And your solution save me more than a hundred Euro's ! Thank you. Have a fruitfull 2016 !</p>
<p>Hi, can anybody help. Since my samsung CLP-365W printer had only 1 resistor. I thought that I just need to put the 56ohm to replace the one inside the fuse housing. It does't work, so I watch this comment again and now I know that I should keep the existing one in (which I had thrown away) and put the 56ohm together. I thought only the old style need 2 resistors. Now I need to buy back the 200k. I had put the 1/4W 56R 0.25W 56R 5% 56ohm resistor in it and start the printer, it burn out. Am I doing it wrong, it won't work without the 200k. Did I brought the right 56ohm and what is the 200k.For the 200k, what is the Power (?Watts), Resistance (?Ohms). I had check on the website with the color strip on the resistor, black, brown, yellow and gold should be 100k. I am so confuse now. What about the 56ohm that I had brought with 1/4W 56R 0.25W 56R 5%, is that one correct? I am not familiar with this thing. Please help? Thanks</p>
<p>Did you figure it out?</p>
<p>Does the black plastic housing on your imaging (drum) unit have a single resistor as shown here, or did it have two resistors?</p>
<p>I just did the reset on a Samsung C460W (Europe) using a 56 ohm resistor (green, blue, black, gold). After startup the fuse started to smoke and the printer gave an error indicator (door). Powered down and removed the (now black) 56ohm. After startup the unit gave a &quot;calibrating&quot; indicator and started to work just fine! Interesting that in the supplies menu it is still showing 16002 count for the imaging unit, but the printout report reads out 2. Someone should sue Samsung for engineering planned obsolense into their products.. Thanks for making this tutorial! You really helped me out.</p>
<p>For the imaging units that have the small plastic housing with the TWO resistors, your analysis makes sense: The low ohm resistor burns out (or is it a high current to some component on the circuit board) and the unit tells the printer to reset the counter.</p><p>But what is the mechanism if the imaging unit only has a single resistor (Brown-Black-Yellow-Gold) which is 100K ohms? That is the case with the Samsung Series C460 printer. There is nothing to &quot;burn out&quot;. If the 100K resistor is the one that is supposed to fry, then the resistance would become infinite (open circuit). Is that what the circuit board is looking for?</p><p>Placing a 56 ohm resistor in parallel on the clip will cause a HUGE increase in the current through that circuit. Won't it be like a short circuit and likely to fry the board?</p>
<p>This worked really well, thanks a lot!</p>
Hi there i just tried to reset my clp365 printer i put the 56 ohm resistor in left it in for about half an hour and nothing happened so i took it out and powered up the printer and it sounded like it was reseting and the light even went green for a while but then it went back to red ... am i doing something wrong or is there a specific time i need to leave the resistor in .... could you please assist me. Thank you
<p>Many Thanks for the explanation on how the printer works. Just reset my 310N by soldering in a new 60 Ohm resistor. Takes a while to burn out but worked like a charm. One has to hate planned obsolescence..... I thought Samsung was better than that.</p>
<p>Great tutorial ...thank you so much!!! Please tell me did anyone try with yellow or other color? Can we reset other colors also?</p>

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