Step 6: Sashimono (Banner Flag *Optional)

banner flags were used to display unit types and ranks as well as clan identification of basic units but where not typically worn into battle. i made mind on the soul purpose for the dress of it.

its very simple to make

get a square Dowel rod cut it at 25% of its length make an angle brace for the corner and glue it together and add a screw going down into the dowel. use a dremmel to cut a grove in the dowel on the inside were you'll attach the banner. paint it the desired color use the dowel rod when assembled to make the template. find a fabric of your choice then get  2" elastic and sew them to your banner. simply staple the elastic in the grooves you made earlier and hot glue them in for a smoother look.
How did you attach the sashimono on this?
<p>Wow, you look like real samurai!!<br>It is almost the same as my &quot;red&quot; miniature armor.<br><a href="http://www.alexcious.com/products/detail2455.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.alexcious.com/products/detail2455.html</a></p>
<p>very nice armour</p><p>the only thing I have noticed is that you are wearing your swords upside down, they should curve downwards.</p><p>some great ideas , that I will have to try.</p><p>thanks</p>
Good eye haha, I actually had not fashioned a belt for the swords at the time of the picture.<br><br>Cheers!<br>-Titus
<p>Exactly how much sintra do you need? I know you said two sheets, but what are the measurements of those sheets. I bought two 12 by 24 sheets of sintra off amazon but they look very small, and are probably not enough! Hopefully you still respond to comments on this page.</p>
Hello! The sheets I was referring too were 24&quot;x36&quot;. So yes you will need more sintra. Good luck!<br>Cheers!
<p>Well done</p>
Thank you I live in a small town and so I can't fin Sinatra or komatex any where for a reasonable price. I plan on wearing this at Momo con 2014 with my friend being in a geisha kimono
your welcome! ABS OR HIPS plastic is also a good choice because it can be formed with just a heat gun and is also very durable. both of these materials are usually cheaper then sintra if what you have doesnt work out.<br>have fun at the con!<br>cheers
I have a blue plastic barrel would it make good armor
i've heard good things about the barrels. some others have tried it with great results.
Btw, how did you get the nice vertical bend on the shoulder pieces? And I see you laced on the front and back on one side, but how did you latch it on the other side? <br>
they are actually 2 different pieces. the whole shoulder armor is bent a a crescent shape, once it was formed i just drew a outline on paper with it and added a couple inches and cut a piece out of the material based on the piece of paper. <br>pretty simple, just used a bit of epoxy and hot glue. im not sure what you mean by &quot;latching it to the other i side&quot; can you explain it a little more for me? :) <br>thanks!
By latching, I mean, how did you close the body section on the sides? You have to get in somehow, so it has to open. Did you use clamps? Ties? Frogs? Buttons? Zipper? <br> <br>For your helmet, it would look a little better and be a bit more accurate if the lamination are tied outward so it gets successively wider instead of inside so it goes towards your neck. It's why the flange on your helmet looks so narrow. <br> <br>Also, where did you get the inspiration for this design? It's always nice to site your sources ;)
oh! well since this ive modified the basic design for putting on the chest... what i ended up doing was keeping the lacing on it as decorative trim and make 3 holes about 2 - 3 inches apart under the arm on both sides of the armor and using the same gold trim rope as a tie off. essentially i tied a knot at the front holes, (each hole had its own cord) and threading in through the back holes you pull tight and tie it off the the access on the front. its simple and works but you may need an extra set of hands to tie it off. <br> <br>i agree on some of the armor bits needing to be more accurate but this was a 2 week build after all and not one of my major costumes. also the material chosen is incredibly hard to shape it to flange out like you mentioned and i also like to look up with out a band of plastic burrowing into the back of my neck and shoulders. <br> <br>viola! https://www.instructables.com/id/Samurai-Costume/
Congratulations on being a finalist in the Halloween contest!!! Can&rsquo;t wait to see if you win! Good luck!
thanks so much! cheers!
Great tutorial and awesome work!
Quite impressive and obviously a lot of research went into your costume. You got me vote!
Quite impressive and obviously a lot of research went into your costume. You got me vote!
Quite impressive and obviously a lot of research went into your costume. You got me vote!
Can I use steel? I like this type of armor due to how light it is compard to plate armor and it would just be even cooler. The steel would be cold-steel.
oh yah you can use steel, it would have a great effect on it too if you added dents and weathering. i've personally never used steel for armor so i have no advice to give but im sure you could use the same instructions. here is a great diagram for metal samurai armor, note the difference in the chest as its one whole piece. <br>http://www.japanese-armor.com/images/source/Samurai_Do_maru_armor_piece.jpg
Hey ! <br>I have made the chest plate armor with interlocking mats, it was pretty hard but people can punch and kick me with it on and it doesn't hurt.
haha, funny how that works out right? well great job! ill be looking forward to seeing it finished!
Is the armor on your back the same as the front?
yes it is, its pretty much the exact same template used. the only difference is that the ring/ hole for the neck is less of that on the front piece of armor.
Where did you buy the HDPE from and would those interlocking foam mats work? Cheers
oddly enough Menard's had them with their plexi glass and acrylics in the windows and doors section. if your familiar with grainger you can also order it from them. they also have thickness selections which helps if you want thinner armor. you could very well use E.V.A foam (interlocking mats) would be easier to form but much harder to thread because it they give a lot cause of there density, you would also need to get the thinnest mats you could order but i personally recommend not using EVA. ill look for some other materials that would work and get back to you!
So I did some more looking around I found out yoga mats are the same material as eva foam. Once heated and formed it does harden and keep shape. Your more then welcome to try that out for the armor. I haven't attempted yoga mats yet but im going to try soon for a differnt project.
Ive bought some foam mats and i'm going to start making it soon.
Alright let me know how it goes, best of luck.
Cool design. It looks good.
Great work. This is super cool!
Better Shoes?<br>They would not protect, and get wet very easily in your area or snow.
i have made a seperate sandals out of bamboo with ayou heel lace since then to be more period but they really did where sandals in battle. some late period armor from the shins would come down ontop of the foot but do to restricting mobility wasnt very common. <br>in battle the last thing you would worry about is getting your feet wet haha. :)
The Flag is called Sashimono<br>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sashimono<br><br>Could be a little taller than that or your pals won't see you in the battle field<br><br>Great Job !!!
thanks was trying to find it!<br>yah i wanted to make it tall but going through doors would have been a bit of an issue haha xD<br><br>thanks!
nice job love the armor

About This Instructable




Bio: Chief Project Manager and Fabricator. I make all sorts of props and costumes from scratch on very low budgets for fun. anything from star wars ... More »
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