You will need:
1.1 metre of medium weight satin fabric
2.tailors tacking thread
3.suitable machine and hand sewing needle (ballpoints)
5.overlocker (if you do not have one you can overcast the edges or finish them with zigzag stitch).
7.close fitting dress block pattern
8.hook and eye
9.concealed zip approx. 18 inches in length
12. steam iron
13. seam roll
14. measuring tape
17. fabric shears
18. paper scissors
19. felt pen
Step 1: Draft the Pattern
Create front and back facings by drawing around the front neckline on each pieces up to the dart line, then move the pattern piece so that the dart becomes closed and continue to draw around. This gives the shape minus the dart.
Lay the pattern on the fabric, placing the CB and CF on the fabric fold. Transpose the darts to the fabric using tailor’s tacks. Cut.
Visit http://the-tailoress.com/Darts.html for information on constructing a dart.
Step 3: Finish Seam Allowances
Step 4: Pin and Stitch the Facings
Step 6: Clip the Seam Allowances
Step 7: Fold and Press Facings
Step 8: Pin and Stitch a Side Seam
Pin and stitch, but do not include the facing seam allowance in the seam. This will be folded over and stitched later on.
Press the seam over the seam roll and use a clapper.
Step 9: Shoulders
Step 10: Waistband
Measure form the hem to the bottom of the ribbon and ensure it is correct all the way round. Use diagonal basting to secure into place temporally.
Step 11: Create Bow
I found the centre of the ribbon, folded a length in half, then folded a shorter length in half on top, then took the remainder back at an angle so the tail would hang to one side (allowing for the centre piece to later be inserted). Repeat on other side.
Take a small piece of ribbon and wrap around the centre to cover the folds.
Pin and then baste into place.
Step 12: Attach Bow to Band
Step 13: Zip
This will make it easier to insert it and allow the stitched to be close to the teeth so less of the zip tape is revealed right side.
Step 14: Pin and Stitch the Zip
Once complete, zip it up and pin the rest of the side seam. Stitch from the bottom of the zip seam to the hem. Press and use the clapper.
Step 15: Facing Side Seams
Turn back the seam allowance on the front facing and lay on top of the back side seam facing allowance. Pin and use fell stitch to secure. Repeat this process for front and back facing seam allowance on the zip side. Fell stitch to the zip tape.
Step 16: Finish Waistband and Bow
When stitching the bow, catch all layers of ribbon expect the top when going along, to enable it to look soft.
Fell stitch around the centre ribbon piece.
Snip angles or forks to the desired length on the bow tails and finish with a fray stopping fluid.
Step 17: Hem
Fold and use catch stitch to secure. Press and use the clapper.