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I would like to start out with a few things about doing this project. The skill level for the skull, jaw servo linkage and the electronics is not for the faint of heart! I highly recommend that you have at least a level 4 out of 5 before even considering approaching this project. The documentation for both the circuit board and the servo connection is very confusing. Take a good look at the Cowlacious manuals for the ST-400 Scary Terry's Audio Servo Driver board and Talking Skull Kit before you buy. Be prepared to do A LOT of free styling and drawing on your past skills and knowledge. The manuals are horrible to say the least. In spite of the poor documentation the kit is well worth it, in spite of a lot of guess work. Big warning, be careful of board components. I broke off a capacitor that ruined the board.(See the image of the circuit board. Note C 12 is missing!) It CAN NOT be repaired! I had to buy a new board. A $60 mistake.

The Scary Terry Talking Skull can be purchased here: http://www.cowlacious.com/. Kit or completed build.

I HIGHLY recommend that you do all of this prior to ANYTHING with the skull. I wish I would known this prior to doing the Scary Terry build. It would have been a lot easier to grind near the hole in the base of the skull without all the stuff in place! As I said it was a real learning experience.

No Teflon pipe tape is needed. All threaded connections can be hand tight. If you feel you must over tighten the connections be my guest. I would not over-tighten the final nut as you could cause it to crack the plastic.

Total cost for materials at Home Depot: Around $25

This project does NOTinclude the cost of and the time required to build the Scary Terry Talking Skull kit or completed Skull!

Total Time: Around 1 to 2 hours.

Step 1: Components Needed to Make the Stand.

I got these items at Home Depot. You can also find these at any

Lowes or hardware store.

These three items are located in the metal Wire Conduit area.

1 each ¾ inch by 2 inch Rigid Conduit Nipple SKU 051411643270

1 each ¾ inch by 6 inch Rigid Conduit Nipple SKU 051411643621

1 each ¾ inch Conduit Hub Insulated Throat SKU 51411916329

The next two items are found in the Black Pipe area.

1 each ¾ inch Tee Black SKU 019442147679

1 each ¾ inch Floor Flange SKU 0000-182-125

Also you will need an Outdoor antifreeze water faucet cover.

You will need a Dremel with a flat smooth 3/4 inch grind stone.

Total cost for parts $36.

Step 2: Out Door Anti-Freeze Faucet Cover and Base Setup.

Remove the gray foam from the base of the cover. Leave the Styrofoam inside the cover intact. You will need to cut the hole through the top larger so that the 6 inch pipe just fits through the plastic and Styrofoam. Attach the 3/4 inch Floor Flange to the 3/4 inch x 6 inch Conduit Nipple (6" pipe)

Step 3: Black Tee Pipe

I used the Tee Pipe for feed through of any wiring that connects to the circuit board. This provides access for any new connecting wires you may need and the ability to remove any wiring. Using this enables access to wiring without the need to drill extra holes in the skull.

Step 4: Remove the Nut From the 3/4 Inch Conduit Hub Insulated Throat

See images.

Step 5: Insert the 2 Inch Conduit Nipple Into the Conduit Hub Insulated Throat

See above images.

Step 6: Now Insert the 2 Inch Pipe Into the Base of the Stand

See image. Cover removed for detail.

Step 7: Preparing the Skull for the Completed Stand.

I highly recommend that you do this prior to doing any modifications to the skull (Servo mounting or inside electronics!)

You will need to level the inside area around the hole in the base of the skull. Don't worry too much about how deep you go. It's pretty thick in this area. You will need to smooth and level around the hole without going too deep and/or too wide. Try not to enlarge the base hole size. The object is to smooth out an area so that the nut shown will grab onto just enough of the threads on the top of the stand when placed through the skull base hole, (For the medically inclined this hole is known as the Foramen Magnum)

Step 8: After You Have Completed the Grinding and Leveling.

Push the completed stand through the hole in the base of the skull. Thread the nut onto the threaded part protruding through the hole. Hand tight should be enough to support the skull and keep it level.

Step 9: Completed Project!

This project should help those that buy the Scary Terry Talking Skull kit or completed Skull and have no means for supporting the skull. There are a number of projects I would like to do to enhance this for Halloween. Moving eyeballs and added sound boards. I may have to wait to tackle these mods.

If anybody has mods or hacks for skull kit please let me know.

Step 10:

<p>Actually your board is repairable. The missing cap is an Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - SMD 470uF 25V ELECT FK SMD. Sony EEE-FK1E471AP. Mouser part #667-EEE-FK1E471AP. Any SMD hot air station can secure it.</p>
<p>Nice way to set up your Halloween props.</p>

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