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This is my OSFDBPC (One Science Fair Display Board Per Child) project. This is Go Green because it helps to save the planet one piece of cardboard at a time. Besides, it saves you green (American vernacular for money) when you have to purchase one when you don't really need to.
One of the greatest examples of marketing and tribute to P.T. Barnum is selling a big piece of cardboard under the guise of a "Science Fair Display Board" and slapping a price sticker on it for $8.00(tax and VAT not included) or more. For that price, it doesn't even come with a guarantee that your child will learn anything by doing something with it. With thousands of schoolchildren that can't even afford lunch, how do we expect them to use even a few bucks for education in this way. So, here is another frugal family project...besides, it is way cooler if you made it yourself.
One of the greatest examples of marketing and tribute to P.T. Barnum is selling a big piece of cardboard under the guise of a "Science Fair Display Board" and slapping a price sticker on it for $8.00(tax and VAT not included) or more. For that price, it doesn't even come with a guarantee that your child will learn anything by doing something with it. With thousands of schoolchildren that can't even afford lunch, how do we expect them to use even a few bucks for education in this way. So, here is another frugal family project...besides, it is way cooler if you made it yourself.
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I haven't looked at the fine print of the Intel Science Fair rules but I don't think the display board needs to be purchased commercially. The standard dimensions of the Science Fair Display Board is 3 feet high by 4 feet wide (36" high x 48" wide). If it is a tri-fold board design, each of the two side panels are 3 feet high by 1 foot wide (36" high x 12" wide). The two sides fold in making the display easy to store and carry.
Time to rummage through the paper recycling pile for any boxes and large pieces of stiff corrugated
cardboard. The bigger the box the better but don't worry, we will piece togther the cardboard to the right size. You can also ask shopkeepers if they have any large packing boxes to get rid of. Cardboard from IKEA furniture boxes are minimalist in that the skin will puncture easily and lack strength for a display board but don't worry, just laminate two layers together and after painting the surface will hold up better. You will need a bottle of school glue, some paint, and tools to measure and cut. You can use any kind of paint in any color but I always have a can of leftover household wall primer laying around which works well to cover up any cardboard graphics or colors.
You will need plenty of room to work and hopefully you have a large surface to cut the cardboard on. It is easiest to use a sharp razor knife/box cutter to slice the cardboard. Cut the cardboard over a piece of scrap plywood or several other layers of cardboard. Do not do this over your living room carpet or fine hardwood floor!
Carefully deconstruct and unfold your boxes. Examine which way the "grain" or direction the internal ridges are running. This should run vertically to give your board some strength. Lay out your pieces to fit the approximate final size of the flat board 3 feet x 4 feet (36" x 48"). Select the main piece to fit where your display will need to be the most flat. The creases should be placed where they will have least visual impact or if you are lucky, line it up with where the tri-fold board would normally crease.
The technique for joining pieces is to mark a line about 2" in from the edge. Peel back the top layer of cardboard to this line. Carefully with the razor knife, cut the inside corrugated or wavy cardboard along the line but not cutting through to the next outer layer. Remove the inside by peeling it out. Don't worry about any bits that get stuck, it just needs to be flat. You now have piece of cardboard with a U shaped flange that you can glue and mate to another piece of cardboard. Spread glue all over the inside of the channel and attach. When the cardboard is wet with glue, it will appear wrinkly. It will flatten out once it all dries. Don't worry if you make a mess with the glue on the cardboard so you don't have to be too neat.
Cut strips of cardboard to harvest the outer layers of the cardboard. This you will use to seal and finish all the edges of your board. Bridge the gap of any seams and creases if needed. Patch any holes or cuts with this material. You can also use glue to cover all the new seams and paper edges to smooth it out for painting and appearance.
Time to rummage through the paper recycling pile for any boxes and large pieces of stiff corrugated
cardboard. The bigger the box the better but don't worry, we will piece togther the cardboard to the right size. You can also ask shopkeepers if they have any large packing boxes to get rid of. Cardboard from IKEA furniture boxes are minimalist in that the skin will puncture easily and lack strength for a display board but don't worry, just laminate two layers together and after painting the surface will hold up better. You will need a bottle of school glue, some paint, and tools to measure and cut. You can use any kind of paint in any color but I always have a can of leftover household wall primer laying around which works well to cover up any cardboard graphics or colors.
You will need plenty of room to work and hopefully you have a large surface to cut the cardboard on. It is easiest to use a sharp razor knife/box cutter to slice the cardboard. Cut the cardboard over a piece of scrap plywood or several other layers of cardboard. Do not do this over your living room carpet or fine hardwood floor!
Carefully deconstruct and unfold your boxes. Examine which way the "grain" or direction the internal ridges are running. This should run vertically to give your board some strength. Lay out your pieces to fit the approximate final size of the flat board 3 feet x 4 feet (36" x 48"). Select the main piece to fit where your display will need to be the most flat. The creases should be placed where they will have least visual impact or if you are lucky, line it up with where the tri-fold board would normally crease.
The technique for joining pieces is to mark a line about 2" in from the edge. Peel back the top layer of cardboard to this line. Carefully with the razor knife, cut the inside corrugated or wavy cardboard along the line but not cutting through to the next outer layer. Remove the inside by peeling it out. Don't worry about any bits that get stuck, it just needs to be flat. You now have piece of cardboard with a U shaped flange that you can glue and mate to another piece of cardboard. Spread glue all over the inside of the channel and attach. When the cardboard is wet with glue, it will appear wrinkly. It will flatten out once it all dries. Don't worry if you make a mess with the glue on the cardboard so you don't have to be too neat.
Cut strips of cardboard to harvest the outer layers of the cardboard. This you will use to seal and finish all the edges of your board. Bridge the gap of any seams and creases if needed. Patch any holes or cuts with this material. You can also use glue to cover all the new seams and paper edges to smooth it out for painting and appearance.
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We used recycled cardboard boxes covered with butcher paper. So, basically, this :D
Looks like price went up $8.79USD each. That buys you a lotta mutton...