Step 1: Materials and Tools
- Broken corkscrew (bit missing)
- Steam iron plate
- Hard drive arm
- Radio antenna
- Big rock
- Rubber foot (optional)
- Epoxy putty
- Clear spray paint
- 1/4" masonary drill bit
- 7/32" drill bit
- Drill bit sizer
- Reciprocating saw w/ metal cutting blade
- Bench vise
- Utility knife
- Diagonal cutter
Step 2: Wings
With the lines drawn clamp the iron to your work bench with the base hanging over the edge. Use your hacksaw to make a starter notch. Then use your reciprocating saw to cut the iron along the horizontal line.
When the horizontal cut is finished transfer the iron to your bench vise. Make a starter notch in the top of the iron with a hacksaw and then use the reciprocating saw to cut the iron until you get close to the vise. When you've cut the iron as far as you can reorient the iron in the vise so the base is facing upward. Now complete the cut from the base side of the iron. Be careful as you make this cut, as the reciprocating saw's motion will peel the thin metal on the back of the iron off and it could go flying. Safety goggles and a dust mask are recommended.
These cuts will be rough so use the hacksaw and files to clean them up and make them safer to handle.
Step 3: Wing Attachment
Dry fit the arms of the corkscrew into the exposed resevoir of the iron halves. When you've confirmed the arms will fit into the resevoir seperate the parts and flip the corkscrew over. Smear copious amounts of E-6000 on the arms and into the resevoir of the iron. Place the arms of the corkscrew into the iron halves so the E-6000 coated surfaces match up. Secure the arms in place with spring clamps and allow the glue to dry.
After the E-6000 has dried mix up some epoxy putty. Work the epoxy into the gaps between the arms and the iron halves to reinforce the bond between the arms and the iron. Allow the epoxy to fully cure.
Step 4: Foot Preparation
Step 5: Drilling Holes for the Foot
Next I choose where I wanted the beater to connect with the Scrap-a-dactyl's body. I then heated my awl with a torch and pushed it through the spot I had chosen on the body to create a pilot hole. With that done I then drilled a hole in the body using a 7/64" drill bit. I cleaned the edges of the hole using needle files.
With the hole drilled in the body I chose a spot on the rock where I wanted the foot to join. I tried to balance the placement in such a way that it would incoporate the fossil in the base rock in the view making it part of the assemblage, but not damage it. I placed the severed beater on the rock in a couple of positions until I found one that sturck the right balance. I makred this spot with a marker. Then I used the smallest masonry bit I had (1/4") to drill a hole in the rock. I would have preferred a hole of the exact same size, but since I don't do masonry drilling often, I couldn't bring myself to run out and buy a new bit. The epoxy putty I used to secure the foot will be able to make up the slight difference in size.
Drilling rock is a slow process so be patient. Be sure hold the rock firmly to the bench and lift the bit occasionally to allow the rock dust to escape. You may also want to stop and knock the dust out of the hole occasionally, or vacuum it out. Bend the tines out to the side and use the beater to check the depth occasionally. When you've drilled as deep as you want, it is time for the next step.
Step 6: Sealing the Rock and Leveling It Out
Once the paint has dried this would be a good time to make the base as level as possible. I did this by placing the base on my work bench and pressing on the various edges to see how the base shifted. Once I determined where the low point was, I went into my parts stash and found a rubber foot that fit beneath the rock to stop the wobble. I placed a dab of E-6000 on the foot and joined it to the rock and allowed it to dry.
Step 7: Attaching the Foot
Next fit the body onto the top of the beater, pointing in the direction you want the Scrap-a-dactyl to face. Mix up another glob of epoxy putty and work it around the beater where it joins the body inside the corkscrew. Wait for the the putty to cure.
Step 8: Head to Tail
With the tail assembly curing I turned my attention to the head. The hard drive armature had a handy tab sticking down that fit nicely onto the corkscrew handle. I put some E-6000 into the space between the tab and armature and then pressed it onto the handle. Make sure you get the head balanced just right, or else it will pivot to one side as the Scrap-a-dactyl flaps.
Wait until the E-6000 has fully cured and then carefully cut away any excess from the head and tail using a sharp utility knife. The Scrap-a-dactyl is now complete.