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Picture of Seat for a walker

I have a friend who has a disability. She tires easily and when she does she has a difficult time finding a place to sit when she needs it. I came up with this design that would be lightweight, removable, secure, could be hand washed, and would not be in the way when attached. The seat portion was recycled car seat harness from a child safety seat.
 
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Step 1: Gather tools and materials

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In this instructable I used

sewing machine
scissors
seam ripper (not pictured)
Lighter


Materials
length of car seat harness webbing
1" flat nylon webbing
Heavy duty upholstry thread
4 1" welded steel D rings
8 1" welded steel O rings
4  3/4" electrical conduit claps (dipped in plastic dip prior to use)

To attach to walker I used
Pliers
flat headed screwdriver

Step 2: Decisions of size


Decide how large you want the seat portion. I chose to make this seat for an adult so I wanted it fairly large. 


Step 3: Cutting side lengths

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Cut 2 lengths of the wider webbing into 13.5" pieces. Flash in a lighter flame to melt ends to prevent fraying. Fold over ends and make the loops a tiny bit wider then the webbing itself. You will need to pass the O rings through the loops. Stitch back and forth 4-5 times. Repeat on each end. You should end up with 2 straps with loops on each end.

Step 4: More cutting

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Cut another 2 lengths of the wider webbing. Melt ends to prevent fraying.  I chose 16" lengths. Insert the lengths into the looped ends and sew together using a straight stitch with machine. Sew only on outside edge and go forward and reverse 4-5 times.

Step 5: Cutting supports

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Cut 3 lengths of wider webbing into desired sizes. I chose 15.75".  Melt ends to prevent fraying. Attach each piece to the underside of the frame, spacing each evenly. Use a straight stitch and go forward and reverse 4-5 times. Repeat on the other side.

Step 6: Cutting more supports

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Cut 7 lengths from the wider webbing in 8.5" lengths. Melt ends to prevent fraying. Attach onto frame underside on the longer side using straight stitch an going forward and reverse 4-5 times.

Step 7: Weaving

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Weave the webbing through the longer supports alternating each. Sew using a straight stitch on opposite side. Repeat with all straps. Be sure to stitch forward and reverse 4-5 times.

Step 8: Reinforcment

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Reinforce all intersections using a straight stitch. Take care to not stitch the looped ends closed.

The seat is mostly completed. Set aside.

Step 9: Cutting thinner webbing

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Measure and cut 4 lengths of the 1" nylon webbing into desired lengths. Be generous with the lengths. I measured and cut mine into 4'  pieces. Melt ends to prevent fraying. Sew 2 lengths together and fold over ends.

Step 10: Cutting more thinner webbing

Picture of Cutting more thinner webbing
Cut 2 lengths of 1" nylon webbing into desired lengths. I cut mine at 24".  Melt ends to prevent fraying.  These will be the straps that will have the O rings attached.

Step 11: Sewing O rings

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Thread a shorter length of 1" webbing through 2 O rings. Fold webbing over about 6 inches and sew  together using a straight stitch. Try to sew as close to the O ring as possible. Reinforce stitching by sewing webbing forward and reverse 4-5 times. Reinforce webbing a few inches down as well. Repeat on other 3 ends.


Step 12: Threading O ring straps

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Thread your O ring straps through the looped ends of your seat. I alternated mine through the supports.

Step 13: Threading longer straps

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Thread you longer double strap through the looped ends. Repeat with other strap.

Step 14: Reinforce ends and close loops

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Reinforce the ends and close the loops using a straight stitch. Be sure to ensure that you have an equal amount of strapping on each side.

Step 15: Attaching to walker

Picture of Attaching to walker
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Slide D ring onto electrical clamp. Attach the plastic coated clamps and D ring to the walker using a pair of pliers and a flat headed screw driver. Be sure to tighten it so that it will not slip or slide. 

Thread double straps through D ring.
Loop around and come back to O rings.
Thread through O rings.
Loop back around and thread through 1 O ring. This should lock straps in place. Adjust as needed.
reddnekk4 years ago
Great idea. And--if you don't have a sewing machine, all straps can be riveted--riveter is cheap in handicraft store (Michael's, for example). And hammer can be used if no riveter available (altho you DO have to have rivets). Use at least four rivets per joint, space so they are not in line. And seat can be one piece of canvas with straps riveted along two opposite edges. (I don't have sewing machine, but DO have riveter.)

Now why didn't I think of this?
I like to use rivets and contact cement (two layers)
two layers contact cement
clamp then rivet
jblessf4 years ago
This is wonderful! It is light weight. Which makes it easier to use the walker. The ones that are sold in stores are too heavy. My hat is off to you.
nneul (author)  jblessf4 years ago
That was one of my "requirements" when I brainstormed this up. I looked around but all of the available seats (If you could find one) were very heavy or bulky and not convenient to carry around at all times. This is very portable, hand washable, light weight, sturdy, and adjustable.
laurel14 years ago
I worry that the clamps would slip off of the handle and dump the person to the floor.
If the clamps were put on the side support bars, and could slide back and forth, the seat could be pushed back when the walker is folded. The blue straps, on the corners, could have INDUSTRIAL velcro to attach around the legs to keep the seat square when sat upon. I think that the clamps still should be used to provide extra strength.
Also, I don't know where to buy these, but there are wheels for the back legs that collapse so that the walker doesn't roll when someone sits on it. They sort of lift so that the weight is on the leg and not on the little wheel. These are usually on the walkers that have the flip seats. They have larger front wheels and these smaller collapsing wheels are on the back legs.
OK, grannie with a walker gave her two cents. I'll be interested to see how someone will improve on this. Oh, and don't forget to mention a weight limit so that a heavier person doesn't get hurt.
If anyone sees these collapsing wheels for sale anywhere, please let me know.
nneul (author)  laurel14 years ago
The clamps are something that was a concern. I tested it with my own weight before I allowed anyone to use it. I weigh right around 240. It didn't bulge or wiggle at all. I then sat in it for around 30 minutes just to test the strength. It was not the most comfortable seat but then again I am larger then the intended person it was designed for. This would be great for someone who needed short but frequent breaks.

If you have never messed with plastic dip it sure is a lot of fun... Gooey, messy, stinky, but fun. :)
Jadagara4 years ago
A great idea indeed. My wife has tumor on her spine and she now needs a walker to move around when she prefers that instead of on a wheelchair. Like your friend, she tires easily so a seat like this would be a relief during those moments. Thank you for sharing.
jneul4 years ago
Great idea. Simple, functional, relatively inexpensive