A Brief History of Gardening in Containers:
Do you like gardening but digging in the dirt is too painful, messy, or time consuming? Container gardening is your answer. For many years now, container gardeners have been using pots, tubs, and boxes of all sizes to garden in. While raised bed gardens have also gained in popularity, so have "bucket gardens" or tubs become an economical way to garden with more control over your soil and more success with hard to grow vegetables.
Recently, the advent of so-called "self watering" containers have helped gardeners to grow flowers, vegetables, and herbs with even more success. Many companies, such as Earth Box, The Grow Box, and models from Gardeners Supply and others have developed easy to assemble boxes with water reservoirs in the bottom. However, these are often pricey. All over gardening websites and forums, do it yourself versions of these boxes have popped up to provide more economical ways of yielding the same results with significantly reduced costs. There is even a book on gardening vegetables in Self-watering containers by Ed Smith, which you can find here.
At the University of Maryland Extension, Jon Traunfeld designed a Salad Table which is essentially a shallow wooden frame with a large surface area and a mesh bottom that allows water to drain. This is a design of great benefit, as you can plant seeds and cut vegetables comfortably at waist level and avoid problems with pests on the ground. If you would like to know more about Jon's original table (and find many more uses, ideas, and advice about Salad Tables), please visit his page here.
The Idea:
I loved the idea of a salad table as a way to maximize the space I have to grow salad greens to feed myself and my rabbits. Having made my own self-watering tubs for lettuces and other greens the previous summer, I saw how well they flourished with this method even under the hot humid summers of Washington DC. So I decided to combine both the ideas of self-watering containers and the salad table into one. The result is this instructable. This table is deeper than a 2X4, so you can grow much more than just salad greens in it, as you have more space for roots.
What is Self-Watering?
Essentially, this is a system where by you allow water at the bottom of the container to be drawn up, or wicked, to the roots as they need it. There is an overflow hole in the side of the container, near the top of the water reservoir that overflows when the water reaches the top. For me, the term self-watering is a bit tricky as you still have to water the vegetables, you're just doing it from the bottom of the container. This allows the plant to draw water as it needs it, thus reducing the possibility of overwatering or underwatering. The holes in a wicking basket or chamber allow the soil to touch the water for wicking. For tricky or picky vegetables, this also allows you to maintain an even level of moisture in the plant which is what many of them need to grow well.
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Signing UpStep 1: Dimensions and Cost
Dimensions:
This table is made from a wooden frame made from 2X4 that is 63" X 27", with three interior wooden frames of 21" X 19" made from 2X2 furring strips, and three plastic tubs with three plastic bins.
It sits on four legs made from 2X4 that are 36" tall.
Cost:
Cost of materials depends on where you are located, but in general:
2X2X8 Furring strips (3) - $1.50 each
2X4X10 (4) untreated lumber - $2.50 - $3.50each
Gray Duraboxes (3) - $8 each
White Sterilite Bins (3) - $5 each
Hardware - $10-20
2" Casters (4) - $9 each
1 in. x 2 ft. PVC Sch. 40 Plain End Pipe (3) - $1.67 each
This table is made from a wooden frame made from 2X4 that is 63" X 27", with three interior wooden frames of 21" X 19" made from 2X2 furring strips, and three plastic tubs with three plastic bins.
It sits on four legs made from 2X4 that are 36" tall.
Cost:
Cost of materials depends on where you are located, but in general:
2X2X8 Furring strips (3) - $1.50 each
2X4X10 (4) untreated lumber - $2.50 - $3.50each
Gray Duraboxes (3) - $8 each
White Sterilite Bins (3) - $5 each
Hardware - $10-20
2" Casters (4) - $9 each
1 in. x 2 ft. PVC Sch. 40 Plain End Pipe (3) - $1.67 each
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There is a great need for this in Urban areas as more and more areas find out that their native soil is contaminated with lead, arsenic and other toxic materials. Since urban farming and gardening is on the rise, systems like this will allow people to produce their own food, or at least a great percentage of it safely, easily and very conveniently.
Keep up the great work.
I just wrote an instructable about self-watering (mainly for indoor plants, but will work for some outdoor setups): really self-regulating, and no powering needs.
It is here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Self-regulating-watering-system
Hope someone find it useful.
Best wishes,
Gustavo.
My mind is already turning over the idea of making a hydroponic version.
Love it!
Cheers again.
In a much more tropical area such as you describe Tushar, I could see the advantage to having maybe 2 overflow pipes per container. Just remember that you need a straw to connect to the water reservoir inside.
Please see steps 11 and 12 in this instructable to see more detail to what I am talking about. Good luck! I look forward to hearing how your project goes!
cheers.
TIA,
Rick
Hope that helps!
(2*63) + (4*24) + (4*32.5) + (4*36) = 496" of cuts.
4 * (12 * 10) = 480" of material.
These containers have been in my fence for about 12 years now. Each spring I add some more soil to the top to replace what soil decomposed.
I have grown everything from tomatoes and squash to flowers in these containers.
I watter with a tube setup connected to a faucet. I water about every 3 days in mid-hot time.
It is official zone 8b here in the Portland, Oregon area, but effectively it is zone 9a most years. The old saying in Oregon is, " What did you do last summer?"
"I missed it, I went to the beach." We do get a lot of cloudy weather.
I'd also cover the white basket with window screen or a rot proof fabric, to keep your soil mix from getting into the reservoir area and displacing water.
We are far enough north to make it not possible to grow a lot of plants because of the extreme low temps we get here. But hot enough to make it miserable.
From my experience, I drained my water barrels but not my self-watering planters. In the D.C. area, we routinely get below 20 degrees F, which is below freezing, but not sub zero temps. Last winter my tubs did not crack and I am not sure why, but I was glad.
I've got a potting bench that uses the same style of tub under a slatted top, and I don't give it a second thought when winter rolls around -- it's held up fine for the last 3 midwest winters.
You have had a lot better luck than I have, on the freezing and breaking issue.
But I will agree the tubs should be protected from the sun.
Gordy in MN
You have done an excellent job.
For a cheaper (but not self-watering) option, you might want to check out Jon Traunfield's Salad Table here: http://growit.umd.edu/Salad%20Tables%20and%20Salad%20Boxes/index.cfm
It's primarily for salad greens, because you lose a lot of planting depth with his design, but handy nonetheless!
Also, in my experience with my other self-watering systems, in the height of summer heat I need to water more often than it rains, though less than a traditional container, so I wouldn't want to rely completely on that.
Another thought might be to use a toilet cistern to control water from your rain barrels when the water level in your boxes drops too low. That way you're drawing from your rain barrels in a as needed basis.
All you need to do then is make sure your rain barrels don't run dry!
I got them off craigslist, used this instructable
http://www.instructables.com/id/High-Volume-Rain-Barrel/
and made my own stencil after painting them green to look nicer.
A great solution for a true self-watering system! Thanks for sharing!