Stairs. Everyone has seen them. Everyone has used them. And most people avoid them whenever possible. They are fairly simple depending on how much detail you go into on them. They just take a little planning, a little math, and a steady hand. The ones I designed and built/will build were designed so that they could be loaded up on a truck or on a forklift and be strapped down and be put on the ground and be done with it. Since these were made to go up against a Hesco in Afghanistan precision wasn't really the greatest concern. They just had to be sturdy and long lasting. So, lets begin!
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Signing UpStep 1: Tools and Supplies
Alright so lets begin with the tools shall we.
Must have's:
1- Hand Saw
2- Hammer
3- 16d Nails
4- Framing Square
5- Pencil
6- Tape measure
Things to make life easier:
1- Circular Saw
2- Jig saw
3- Nail Gun
4- Stair Gauge
5- Board Bender
6- String Line
7- Chop Saw
Now for the supplies. I can't tell you the cost of the project cause honestly I don't know. We just went out to the yard with all the wood and just started building. Kinda the perks of building in the Seabee's, you have all the wood you need. But anyways.
At least 6 good, straight, uncracked 2x12x16-They really do have to be pretty much perfect otherwise it will cause headaches later.
2- 2x6x16
3- 2x4x16
3- 4x4x16
Must have's:
1- Hand Saw
2- Hammer
3- 16d Nails
4- Framing Square
5- Pencil
6- Tape measure
Things to make life easier:
1- Circular Saw
2- Jig saw
3- Nail Gun
4- Stair Gauge
5- Board Bender
6- String Line
7- Chop Saw
Now for the supplies. I can't tell you the cost of the project cause honestly I don't know. We just went out to the yard with all the wood and just started building. Kinda the perks of building in the Seabee's, you have all the wood you need. But anyways.
At least 6 good, straight, uncracked 2x12x16-They really do have to be pretty much perfect otherwise it will cause headaches later.
2- 2x6x16
3- 2x4x16
3- 4x4x16
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I was wondering if the railing might not be stronger if the baluster were part of stick of lumber that extended all the way down to the base, rather than ending at the stringer? This would give give better leverage to suport the railing. I would think that someone racing up/down the stairs in combat gear who missteps and falls against the railing might exert quite a lot of force outwardly on the railing - enough to pull out the fasteners between the baluster and the stringer, or splinter the wooden stringer, perhaps.. I was thinking that it could go to ground level, and tied into the base structure with a 2x spacer (to account for the width of the outboard stringer of the stairs). I would think that such a board might even be able to substitute for the uprights supporting the stair stringers, if the boards in the base were tied to the outside of the stringers instead of the inside of the stirngers, as you have been building them. The combined support/baluster could tie to the boards in the base in a T, perhaps reinforced with plywood triangles at the T to stabilize the joint laterally. With such a structure, the torque on a baluster of an outwardly exerted force on the railing would be taken up by the connetion to the base, and the fasteners tying the baluster to the stringer would only have to hold against the outward force, instead of both the outward force and the torque exerted as in the present structure.
It's just a thought, and I haven't sat down to work out the stress calculations involved. It's just that I know that I've seen railings on decks, and the ones that are just tied into the joists of the deck are much more wobbly than the designs where there is a continuous post coming from the footer to the railing, and fastened to the joist. You DID ask for constructive criticism...
I have an insatiable interest in low-tech, low cost, sustainable construction projects, but I'd never heard of "Hesco's" before. They look interesting, so I'm curious why you don't like building them?
I'm not an engineer, and to be honest, it's a stretch to even call me an amateur when it comes to this stuff. I'd really appreciate any feedback or advise you could give me.
Is there another strong, but inexpensive, typeif construction that you'd recommend over Hesco's?
And finally...
It's been said, but not often enough... Thanks for getting our backs!
I need to learn to read the comments before I go off searching. I had to look up Hesco because I thought your walls looked alot like Gabions!
Great instructable that I imagine (and hope) I will never have need for!
nice job with these. my only comment is that when the height of your stairs is over 6 feet, it may be a good idea to add some outriggers at the bottom for stability. Because your stairs are not anchored to footers, there is a real risk of them falling over, unless you have them secured at the top which it doesn't look like you do. there is the 2x6 cross memner that ties the 2 posts together. take that board and extend it out to either side, then add a 2x4 diagonal brace. ideally you want to extend half the height to either side, but if space is limited then extend out however far you can, even a couple feet will do a lot for the stability. if you pile some sand bags on the bottom members, that weight will dampen the vibrations as you go up and down the stairs.
To accomodate uneven ground, it may work a little better in the furture to raise up the boards that you have running along the ground so that only the steps and the posts are in contact with the ground. make it much easier to level and stabalize the stairs.
Embarrassing for a jarhead (now fifty years out of service)
Good work and like the others have said, thanks for joining our military service.
...bwelkin