Step 2: Materials

****DISCLAIMER**** You are putting electricity into water. It has the potential to be dangerous. Do so at your own risk. Be smart about it. If you wouldn't touch it with your hands don't stick it in the water. If you're worried about it wearing rubber gloves will give some extra insulation. ****DISCLAIMER****

****DISCLAIMER**** Hydrogen is highly flammable and explosive (think Hindenburg). The amount we're making isn't extremely dangerous, but be careful. Flying shards of glass are never fun.****DISCLAIMER****

Separating Hydrogen and oxygen from water is really simple. It can be as easy as sticking two wires leading from a battery into water and watching the bubbles form. We however want to collect all the little bubbles, so its just slightly more complicated.

Things you will need:

@ (1) Med.Container - To hold water. Preferably clear so you can see whats going on.
@ (1 or 2) Gas Collecting Containers - A test tube, or an old soda bottle like me. Also clear. 2 if you want to collect both the hydrogen and the oxygen
@ (1) Power Source - I use a 12v 1000mA adapter, 9v batteries (in a series) and other sources work too. Bigger the power source, faster the bubbles form.
@ (2) Graphite Electrodes - Optional. You can stick a bare wire into the water, but it corrodes pretty quick. You can pull them out of a 6v Lantern Battery
@ Salt
@ Water
<p>Hi,</p><p>Oxygen forms at anode (the positive electrode), and Hydrogen forms at cathode (the negative electrode). Please change the battery connections and upload the correct schematic diagram for electrolysis</p>
Wrong way round cathode is positive which attracts cations... anode negative attracting anions
I know this as I make batteries all day long and have been doing for several years. I learned from multiple sources including my own experiments. I wouldnt be able to make half the shiz I do if I didnt understand this
<p>to are technically right but positive it when something has less electrons so it should be negative and if something has more electrons it is negative its stupid i thing positive should be negative and vise versa</p>
BBC says oxygen will be at the positive node while you say negative. This is a possibly dangerous mistake on someone's part. Which is it?
Oxygen is anionic... negative
<p>BBC is correct, nothing bad will happen you'll just think your oxygen is hydrogen and vis-versa. However another way of telling which is which is that at the electrode at which hydrogen is being produced there should be roughly twice as much gas compared to the electrode at which oxygen is being produced.</p>
<p>what should you use for the electrodes?</p>
Carbon rods are classically used... to the common man thats a pencil or in this case two of them... make sure to sharpen both ends. These rods can also be uses to create a spark gap filament for high voltage current which gives off a brilliant white light. Peace brother
<p>Ok, so I am making a remote controlled blimp, and need to make hydrogen for the lift gas. is there any way to pressurize the hydrogen so it goes through the tube and into the blimp?</p>
Use a separate containment a tube running from the electrolosys container into another empty container. It wont become highly pressurised this way but youll be able to store more together meaning higher concentration. Then just make sure your ps is strong enough to separate the hydrogen at a high rate. Peace brother
If I add more graphite bars, does it give me more gas too?
Maybe a vacuum pump and an old spray can could do the trick, you could control it with an arduino.
<p>The diagram is wrong, the Anode is positive and cathode negative, and hydrogen is attracted to the cathode because it is an anion, which means that Hydrogen is positive, therefore it is attracted to negative. Besides that, the red side on the battery is usually positive and the black side is negative. </p>
Thank you. I got so hung up the diagram, I couldn't even get to the directions and came straight for the comments! :-) <br>fact check.
<p>Couldn't you PLEASE edit your diagram per Nitr0, to correct the errors before some kid gets it all wrong?</p>
<p>Probably a typo, but you are very right. if you are aiming to make an explosion, then you should combine the hydrogen and the oxygen. because if you just have hydrogen, then the balloon pops, and the air has to combine with the oxygen in the air to catch on fire, whereas the balloon with the oxygen and hydrogen combined will not have to mix with air to blow up. it is alot louder, bigger, and way more dangerous when you blow that balloon up. DO NOT TRY THAT AT HOME!!!!!!!!!! TRUST ME, BECAUSE I KNOW!!!! OK!!! NEVER!!!!!!!!!!!</p>
<p>why does the water turn yellow after that</p>
<p>Likely, you are making chlorine gas because you used table salt for your catalyst. It is also known as mustard gas due to its yellow color, and was used as a chemical warfare agent in WWI.; it's dissolving back into the water and turning it yellow.</p>
<p>Chlorine isn't mustard gas. Mustard gas is C4H8Cl2S, chlorine gas is very reactive with moisture to create Hydrogen Chloride, therefore it wasn't used as an agent in chemical warfare. Maybe you're thinking about phosgene, which is COCl2, which smelled like freshly cut grass and was used in chemical warfare, and is 50% Chlorine by composition.</p>
<p>Dissolved Chlorine gas, if you used a Chlorine salt</p>
<p>That's the chlorine from using table salt as an electrolyte.</p>
Why it produce bad oudor?
<p>This is wrong, the -ve terminal of the battery should be going to the H2 and the positive to the O2</p>
I am in the process of powering a little bike engine from the gasses. Will keep u posted <br>
<p>So what should I use instead of using salt to do it?</p>
<p>Electrolysis of brine is a chloralkali process and proceeds according to the reaction: 2NaCl + 2H2O &rarr; Cl2 + H2 + 2NaOH <br><br>That is, hydrogen and chlorine are produced in equal parts. But because chloride is oxidized to chlorine more readily than oxide or hydroxide are oxidized to oxygen, no oxygen is produced from the electrolysis of brine.<br><br>Much of the chlorine produced at the cathode, then reacts with the remaining sodium hydroxide forming sodium hypochlorite (aka bleach):<br>Cl2 + 2NaOH &rarr; NaOH + NaClO + H2O<br><br>Table salt dramatically increases the conductivity of the solution, thus allowing much more current flow which can make it seem like you're producing lots of gas, but you're mostly making chlorine and hot bleach and half as much hydrogen as you could be getting. Bottom like NO CHLORIDES! You're better off using baking soda or washing soda or even lye and increasing your supply voltage until you get the results you're after. <br><br>PS: if you can't find big enough carbon electrodes, you can also use lead.</p>
<p>Putting salt in the water can produce chlorine gas when electrified. I don't think it is enough to be dangerous(pool chemicals probably contain more) but better safe than sorry.</p>
<p>I just taught Honors Chemistry again after not doing so for ten years. I used Calcium Nitrate as a catalyst. NaCl does frequently produce noticeable amounts of chlorine gas, and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) does produce carbon dioxide with the oxygen, which negates the relighting or a wooden splint effect. I get a very good 2:1 ratio of Hydrogen to Oxygen, which seams to be rather pure.</p>
<p>Of course, now I realize that the one tube is becoming very basic with CaOH and the other is getting rather acidic with nitric acid. Wear rubber gloves or your fingers may sting.</p>
<p>An interesting article - thank you - though the comments are possibly more entertaining albeit for the wrong reasons :)<br><br>I would go along with suggestion of replacing the table salt with something else - and providing folks are careful, would suggest caustic soda while caustic (really?) is the best choice as other than sodium, it contains nothing more than oxygen and hydrogen.<br><br>Unless it acts purely as a catalyst and just &quot;hangs around&quot;, I am guessing that baking soda may be adding carbon in the form of CO2 to the gas produced.<br><br>I may be wrong on that, but certainly sodium hydroxide will NOT contribute ANYTHING as a contaminate.<br><br>As for the HHO generators, I find valid points on both sides, in the first case, clearly generating the gas from an engine&gt;alternator&gt;battery power source is not going to yield more energy that is consumed in making it - so really not a fuel, more an inefficient conversion of one type of chemical energy into another - BUT I do believe it MAY be beneficial particularly on older cars.<br><br>The more out of sorts the engine is, the more I am guessing a whiff of something extremely volatile may be of benefit - even if the amount of gas added is totally insignificant from a &quot;fuel&quot; point of view, possibly it does assist in enabling a more efficient burn of the vapourised petrol. This could improve performance and economy while reducing emissions.<br><br>In much the same way that OLDER engines often seem to do rather well on LPG though a more moder efficient engine doesn't seem to yield a similar benefit (in both cases of course, LPG has a lower BTU than petrol but in older cars, results often seem to be better than optimal - which is almost certainly down to the fact that the old engine was struggling to burn the petrol/gasoline air mixture as efficiently as it was suppoed to - the lpg however provided an &quot;easy more efficient combustion&quot;.)<br><br>So, I suspect an HHO generator may be of benefit on an older, tired engine with poor / fouled injectors etc or during VERY cold temperatures where the conventional fuel really is not being burned as well as it should be - the HHO gas may simply assist slightly in the volatility - as well as enabling the engine to run VERY slighlty leaner by adding a stochiometric mix to one which is normally kept rich. The more gas added, the closer to a stochiometric mixture, the leaner the burn. (I would expect a decrease in CO but an increase possibly in Nx ?)<br><br>In much the same way, that TINY amounts of acetone in a new car seem to do NOTHING at all of use (as you might expect as it has a lower BTU than regulalr petrol (gasoline) - yet in an old car, can sometimes make for a cleaner burn - nothing magical I suspect other than simply lowering the flashpoint slightly and making the fuel marginally more volatile?<br><br>Quite happy to be challenged on the above but you don't need to tell me how many reciepts you have for education (sorry, I mean degrees), just make a fair and reasoned point, I am keen to learn when I am wrong - but I have learned just as much from people who make &quot;happy mistakes&quot; and go &quot;oh wow, that's interesting&quot;, than the people who aim never to make mistakes.</p>
That was a fun read....;0)
<p>will silver wire work best, or what is best.</p>
<p>it is possible to obtain petrol from hydrogen?</p>
<p>petrol, or petroleum by-products, are chemical chains of carbon and hydrogen. For this reason, they are all called hydrocarbons.</p><p>So, yes, you CAN build petrol from hydrogen and carbon, however, it takes energy to do so. Burning hydrogen directly, in combination with atmospheric oxygen, derives plenty of energy without going through the extra steps, waste, and expense to make more complex molecules.</p><p>The real problem with hydrogen is the difficulty of storing it. The molecules are so small and slippery, they tend to leak out any container you put it in. And making it dense enough to make carrying it portable for long trips is a further complication.</p>
<p>Hi I was wondering as this would be my first try at something like this would this work?</p><p>a 9v battery, a plastic bowl, two 0.9 sticks of mechanical pencil graphite, two plastic test tubes to turn upside down on top of the graphite, and just some copper wire i have stripped from various electronic components to tie around the graphite and the correct charges on the battery?</p><p>Also do the test tubes that in my case that would be on top of the graphite, do they need to be partially submerged in the water as well as shown in step 5?</p><p>And if all this is true i just let it sit on there and connect it to the battery let it run for a bit then have hydrogen and oxygen?</p>
<p>yes, but make sure to insulate the copper wires or they will corode. </p>
<p>ı have a question, i did this project with an ATX power supply on 12 volts and i didnt try to collect the hydrogen or oxygen. I let it run for 10 minutes but later I realized that something green is formed in water. What is it and how can i dispose it?</p>
<p>if you have copper wires it's the bits of corroded copper i think or i might be wrong. Don't use copper wire as a electrode, it does not last too long. aluminum turns this weird gray color for me. p.s. this is also how electroplating works!</p>
can anybody share the video plz???
<p>wouldn't using graphite/carbon electrodes create CO2/CO as they erode? that's what happens when electrolysing aluminium (as far as I know)</p>
<p>think you may have the positive and negative terminals around the wrong way.</p>
My goodness I feel like I lost two years off my life from all that arguing. Your wrong no your wrong no ones wrong no we're all wrong who cares it's all in the name of science just learn from others mistakes as well as your own and aim for the greater good! and to think such a nice instructable became a battleground for talk about nuclear submarines and theoretical car enhancements that have already been made, and no I will not be arguing with anyone who says that nuclear submarines are a myth or that the government will kill us all for experimenting with alternate energy. Future comes even if your mad about it. Sticks and stones people. Sticks and stones.
<p>I'll second the production of hydrogen and chlorine gasses with table salt (sodium chloride). It has to do with the preference of half-reactions. See the Wikipedia article for &quot;Electrolysis of water&quot; for details. Sodium hydroxide, a.k.a. lye, would apparently work very well, but of course, that's caustic and therefore somewhat dangerous. Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) will work OK as others have suggested.</p>
<p>I dont wanna divert the topic, but you can charge your blood with oxygen using food grade Hydrogen peroxide diluted to 3% in distilled water and drink it.</p>
<p>Internet says average person consumes 3.15 <br>mL. of oxygen per kilogram of body mass each minute while asleep.</p><p>8hours=480minutes</p><p>480minutes*3.15ml=1512ml~1.5lt</p><p>1.5lt*kg/night</p><p>for 50KG=75L/night</p><p>for100KG=150L/night</p><p>120 scfh O2 requires 1050 <br>ADC(2 or 12V?)</p><p>SCFH = standard <br>cubic feet per hour<br>35cubic feet=0.99109cubic meter</p><p>@~1000A------------------------------------------<br>120cubicfeet/hour=3.39802cubic <br>meter/hour ~3.4cubic meter/hour<br>3.4*8hours=27.2 cubic <br>meter/night<br>~30cubic meter/night<br>---------------------------------------------------------</p><p>for50KG person<br>75/30=2.5X simply means it needs 2500Ah</p><p>for100KG person<br>150/30=5X simply means it needs 5000Ah<br><br>So according to this, you can't even replace what you breathe at night.<br></p>
<p>I would not advise breathing the Oxygen generated by electrolysis of water:</p><p>1) Unless it is separated from Hydrogen, even then it may contain 20% Ozone for the first 30 minutes.</p>
<p>You divided liters by cubic meters there. One cubic meter == 1000 liter. So your result is off by a factor of 1000.</p>
<p>Damn! you are right! How did I make such stupid mistake?!<br><br>then if werecalculate it:<br>@ 1000A<br>30cubic meter= 30000lt/night<br><br>for 50 KG person<br>75/30000=0.0025Ah=2.5mAh or<br>30000/75=400 nights<br><br>For 100KG person<br>150/30000=0.005Ah=5mAh or<br>30000/150=200 nights<br><br>so,<br>for 1 night for 100KG person:<br>1000A/200nights=5A/night is enough!<br>but then the question is:<br>How many Volts?</p>

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