Slack lining is a very fun and challenging "sport" that requires a lot of skill. However the cheapest slack line "kits" available are around fifty bucks, i made this one for about half of that. This instructable will show you how to set up your own slackline.
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Signing UpStep 1: Supplies
Here is what you will need. I got all of the supplies from REI, but i am sure there are many other places that carry these things.
Materials
1 inch tubular webbing- (at least) 70 feet
carabiners - 5
carpet (1ft. by 3-5ft.)
also needed:
2 trees, poles, or any two VERY sturdy upright objects
Materials
1 inch tubular webbing- (at least) 70 feet
carabiners - 5
carpet (1ft. by 3-5ft.)
also needed:
2 trees, poles, or any two VERY sturdy upright objects
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A proper single-carabiner climbing anchor uses a single sling/webbing loop that goes through the carabiner (don't forget the loop in one section so you stay connected to one anchor if the other fails!) loads the carabiner at only one point. In any setup where you have to use two slings, or have to sling an anchor (such as a tree as in this setup, or around a boulder, etc), you HAVE to use two carabiners for maximum safety. Any setup will load the carabiner(s) in one direction or the other on their minor axes, but the idea is to minimize this as much as possible.
My slackline method is thus:
The anchor webbing is folded into a loop and a carabiner clipped into the end of the loop. I feed a bomber rappel ring (20kN, Omega Pacific rappel ring, about $4.75 at REI or wherever else)) over both tails then wrap the webbing around the tree. I Muenter-hitch the webbing to the opposite end of the carabiner, pulling a loop in the tails through the last wrap of the hitch. I can pull out the loop by yanking the tails and slowly ease the tension out of the line if I for some reason can't release the tensioning setup (primitive/Ellington method). The stationary carabiner from the Ellington setup goes into the rap ring and thus lies horizontally flat. The same method is used on the static end of the line, using a flat line-locker hitch through that carabiner.
As mentioned above, this gives me two locations to release line tension without damaging anything in the case of a long, tight line, or a jammed tensioning system if I botch the release. The rappel rings ensure everything is loaded only along its major axis (every axis is a major axis on a rap ring!), and the line lies perfectly flat with minimal effort.
There's a billion ways to rig a line. As long as you're safe and having fun, anything goes!
There's one load to the line and two off-axis loads going to the tree (one each side of the anchor loops) they pull at a slight angle whereas the line itself pulls along the axis of the 'biner. If you're having a hard time picturing it, imagine it was anchored to a HUGE tree, the straps would be almost perpendicular - though the tree won't ever be quite that wide the forces are still off-axis and the 'biner is still tri-loaded.
As far as the guy claiming to be swift water certified and is there fore qualified. All that means is you went to a weekend class somewhere and the instructor told you how it has to be done in rescue. Go spend a saturday climbing with some experienced climbers and you'll see how this gear is really used and used safely. Lots of rules in rescue don't apply in the real world. Real world doesn't need a 10 to 1 or 15 to 1 safety margin. Your 2 ft off the ground here, you'll be fine.
Now if you start high lining or going longer distances than you need to change your setup and even the techniques suggested here aren't going to be enough.
It seems like you would need immense concentration and superior balance to walk on one of these.
anyone can get good at slacklining, that's why it's so great.
5 good biners cost $25 (total) + 70 feet of webbing costs $25 =
$50
This costs just as much as a kit.
haha, well let me say this.
Since making this a few years back i have realized that 5 biners is quit excessive. you really only need 3.
and yeah, webbing would be 25 dollars.
sooooo that's 35.
I really dislike the kits though, like those gibbon lines, those suck, i would not recommend them.
you can also double the webbing through, which allows for better MA and the friction holds the webbing tight, so you don't really need to tie it off or worry about it slipping before you do.
I really like this system.
www.academy.com/index.php
you need biners that can carry a load.
I would recommend these one's
www.rei.com/product/662847
you can set up a line for not a whole lot:
webbing - - 32 cents a foot (1 inch tubular military spec)
carabiners- $9 these
there is a way to set up a line using only 3 or 3 biners, let me know if you want to see how to do that.
but you could probably get it for 30 bucks
This ible totally takes me back, I bought a load of webbing and did it this way. Used it once or twice and really liked it, then my girlfriend bought me a proper ratcheting line for my birthday. Way more convenient.
Totally try it out this way on the cheap, but buying a decent line makes life so much easier in the longrun.
Just had my first slackline of the year on saturday. Came back pleasingly easily. Can get from one end to the other, turn, bounce, even tried doing some poi whilst walking. Can't do any mad flips yet though :)
I've always preffereed this method to the racheting systems.
A slackline is a simple thing, no need for unneccesary bels and whistles.
I tried one of those Gibbon one's with the 2 inch webbing the other day.
That's funky. I spose I'm a litle bit of a sentimentalist
I was convinced I needed the extra pull available through the pulley method, but you don't actually need tree felling power, just nice'n tight.
Hence why I went with the pulley system first, but having owned the ratchet system I wouldn't go back. Quick and easy and definitely less hardware. I had 5 crabs, but the biggest problem with it was I had way too much webbing and didn't want to cut it. Made setting it up tedious. I should've faced facts that I'm not as awesome as I'd like to be, cut it, then had a lot easier time. Bet I would've liked it more then :)
Each to there own I figure.
I'd reccomend the $5, oval, non locking one's though.
It's easier and cheaper to use non-locking biners.
Just make sure that you're using legit climbing biners, meant to hold large loads. (climbing one's)