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Several people have asked for various kinds of help with their radial arm saws. Many of these requests would be solved with a manual, but that has often been lost by a previous owner. This Instructable will take the reader through the steps involved in setting up a radial arm saw. Tools needed are: a couple of Allen wrenches, a couple of good squares, a screwdriver or two, a 7/16 inch, a 1/2 inch and a 9/16 inch wrench and a block. A hammer is also handy, but not absolutely necessary.

Power saws go out of alignment through the vibration that accompanies use. Also, radial arm saws do not like to be moved, and settings will probably drift when one is moved. But, a lot depends on how much precision the user is looking to have from his saw. If you plan to use the saw only to cut 2 x 4s to length, the accuracy you need is not the same as if you were doing fine cabinetmaking with the saw.

Step 1: Assemble the stand

This is my homemade stand constructed of 2 x 4 pieces and plywood cleats. I made it to take down easily, so the brace pieces attach with corner brackets and wood screws. I made two tool trays that rest on cleats inside the frame assemblies of the stand. You want a stand that makes the table on your saw a comfortable height for working. Commercially made stands are also available. 

I like to have my saw away from the wall. For one thing, this allows me to hang blades and other fixtures on the back of the saw stand. It also allows me to walk around to the back of the saw rather than reach over the table for some set up and service procedures. And, I want to be able to put pieces of lumber eight feet long onto the table and take them off of the table from both sides of the saw. Workshop space is somewhat limited. Moving the saw out from the wall allows me to pass lumber in front of my workbench when things like my vise would otherwise obstruct.
I have the same saw and I'm missing the knob underneath the pull handle to tilt the saw head. So I need that knob for the saw head to tilt? And if so can I just put a bolt in the hole or do I need the actual knob?
There is some play without the knob. I would not want to use the saw if the knob were missing. But, I am quite certain it is a standard bolt and thread size (assuming you live where English sizes rather than metric are the norm). I am away from my workshop for a few weeks and cannot check for you, but I am guessing it is 5/15&quot;, possibly 3/8&quot;. <br><br>You should be able to find that knob on eBay. Or, a member of Instructsbles has quite a few parts for these saws. I could ask him if I might give you his name for contact.<br><br>Another option is to put a knob end on a short bolt with wood or something else, or bend a bolt so it has an &quot;L&quot; shape for a handle.
<p>I agree the recall is kinda dumb. </p><p>I worked on it some more last night and concluded a rewind is necessary. I think I'll take your advice and keep the motor in the yoke. The stator coils can be removed from the motor housing for rewinding. I'll let you know how it turns out.</p><p>Thanks for the advice - I'll probably have more questions as this projects goes on... </p><p>Here's the beast. Note the light switch bodged in for the power switch!</p>
If the cost of a rewind is prohibitive, you might find a motor ready to go at eBay. Or, one Instructsbles member contacted me to say he has been collecting Craftsman radial arm saw parts. I could ask him if he would mind if you contact him.
<p>Hey Phil,</p><p>I really appreciate all the advice. I will probably keep asking! </p><p>Something extraordinary happened yesterday - a guy in my city put a Craftsman RAS up for sale on Craigslist, and it happens to be the exact model I have. It has a motor that runs great, but some other parts that are missing. Best of all, he's asking a very reasonable price. I'm picking it up this afternoon. So now I'll be able to re-build a really good saw from two old ones! Sometimes things line up just right, don't they?</p><p>Also, I'll have parts left over, so I should probably link up with the other member you mentioned. Have a great weekend!</p>
<p>John,</p><p>Your Craigslist find sounds like a great solution. My father-in-law had one of these saws. He used it in a big construction project for himself. He was always certain he would burn out a motor, so he got ahold of a second motor. He never needed it. He died 20 years ago and I have no idea where that motor or that saw are today. I used my saw enough that I replaced the motor bearings after about a dozen years. The switch is a problem. I replaced the original style switch with a pushbutton on/off switch, and that has worked well. The switch came from Radio Shack, and I have replaced it once. I think Lowe's or Home Depot might have something similar enough. </p>
<p>Phil,</p><p>Thanks so much for your postings related to RAS machines. I recently bought a 1967 vintage that stood in a barn for about 20 years. I hope to restore it (being an optimist!) and use it in my woodshop. Question: I am trying to remove the motor from the yoke. I can get the handle-side disengaged easily, but I can't seem to remove the mounting bushing on the opposite side. Do I just bend the yoke outwards? I don't want to break it. I'd appreciate any advice you can give.</p><p>JohntheDad, Texas</p>
<p>The only time I removed my saw's motor the saw was new. Do you really need to remove the motor? Does the bevel adjustment work now? If it does, I would not remove the motor.</p><p>If you do not have one, find and look at a manual on-line. Be careful about taking things apart only to look inside and clean them or paint them. One commenter took the brake assembly inside the arm apart and had a lot of difficulty getting it back together in working order. &quot;If it ain't broke, don't fix it.&quot;</p>
<p>Thanks for the reply, Phil. I'd love not to remove the motor, but I'm thinking about giving it a coat of paint, and the yoke as well. I can skip it if it's too much trouble. </p><p>What I'm more concerned about is whether I need to take it to a motor shop. At the moment I'm having trouble getting it going. I've replaced the capacitor but it still turns slowly. Problem is, the previous owner removed the thermal protection switch and just twisted the remaining wires together. It's all a jumble now and I'm trying to sort out which wires go to the main winding, which to the aux winding, etc. Even it I get it sorted out, I may find it necessary to re-wind the motor (there is an armature shop nearby I trust). At that point I'll need to remove it from the yoke, etc.... </p><p>BTW if you have any info that can help me sorting out the wiring I'd appreciate it.</p><p>Alternately, I may just apply for the $100 rebate it this is too much trouble.</p>
<p>I would talk to an electric motor shop and ask if the motor could be serviced while it is still in the yoke. I do not have any information on the wiring of the motor coils, other than what is on the lid to the connections box on top of the motor. As regards the $100 rebate, my 1972 saw is too old for the rebate, based on the serial number. Even if it were eligible, I would be responsible for shipping a 60 pound motor at my expense for $100 and for that I would have a good saw turned into a non-functioning saw. The safety video for that recall is silly. No one plants his hand on the line of the saw's travel and then uses the saw live.</p>
<p>HI there, your instructables have helped me a lot in getting my saw set up, but I've run into a problem and I was wondering if you knew what was wrong. I felt some wiggle when the saw was all locked down and I found that one of the track bearings was loose. The problem is that when I try to tighten it, the bolt just turns without getting tighter. Thinking something might be wrong with the bolt, I tried to remove it, but it just turns without loosening. I can see the end of the bolt below and can see it turn while I'm turning the head and holding the nut still, so I don't understand what could be happening. Is there something special about these bolts that I'm missing?</p>
You are probably turning a bolt on the right side. The left side bolts have an adjusting cam. Be sure to turn and lock those.
<p>Thanks for the quick response. I'm actually on the left side (same as the picture above), but I went and tried to adjust the ones on the right side, just to see if someone had switched them in the past. Both sides just turn and turn without any change. It's really weird.</p>
I would look closely to see if you there are two blogs with cams. Maybe someone broke an adjusting bolt and replaced it with a straight bolt. I did an Instructable on making a similar cam bolt for a Montgomery Ward saw and can provide a link.
<p>Phil, I cannot thank you enough for this EXCELLENT writeup on adjusting a RAS for accuracy. The information you provided for adjusting heel was something I had been struggling with for days. Your simple and lucid instructions were a breath of fresh words! Once I take a look at the pats manual for my saw, I can figure out where the second bolt to loosen is located to adjust the index wheel and correct the heel on my 113.23100 saw.</p>
John, Thank you for your comments. I am not quite sure which 2nd bolt you have in mind. One thing to consider on a Sears saw forty or more years old is that one of the holes in the motor yoke into which the indexing pin falls may have worn at a rate different from the others because of which settings were used most often on the saw. One of my very early Instructables involved renewing the indexing holes on the yoke by bolting on two pieces of strap iron independently adjustable for countering the uneven wear in yoke holes. See it <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Sears-Radial-Arm-Saw-Egg-haped-Indexing-Holes/" rel="nofollow">here</a>. If your saw has uneven wear on the indexing holes, you will have precise alignment on the crosscut setting, but the rip setting will heel, and vice versa.
<p>Thanks for the quick reply, Phil. Looking at the machine again, I was able to understand the adjustment and got it right. I might still be scratching my head over this without your Instructables. By the way, the index holes barely show wear. This saw had little use over the years.</p>
Thank for this. I happen to have such an disassembly/reassembly to do and hadn't yet started thinking about how to tackle it. This will come in handy.
The best of all worlds is to have the original manual, but that is not always possible. I am assuming you may not have a manual, or you simply appreciate seeing steps with photos. I tried to include some helps not in the manual which I learned by experience. I wish you well.
Often a manual can be located here: <br>http://vintagemachinery.org/ <br> <br>There is a recall for the Craftsman RAS sold between 1958 &amp; 1992 following 300+ reported injuries (no comment). The retrofit anti-kickback/new guard kits still provided free and include a new fiberboard table top and fence. <br>http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/
Thank you for the link. The recall you mention is based on the serial number of the saw. I checked the list and my saw built in 1972 was not included in those that can be fitted with the blade guard offered in the recall information. I am surprised that someone logged 300 or more injuries and would like to know more about how each happened. The recall site features a video that shows an operator planting his free hand on the saw table directly over the cut line. No one with any sense at all would do that. The recall asks those whose saws cannot be fitted with the new floating guard to cut the electrical cord and send the saw motor, which weighs 60 pounds, to the manufacturer in return for $100 in compensation. I am not about to scrap a perfectly good tool and then pay a large part of my compensation in mailing costs. <br><br>I have used this saw enough in 40 years that I had to replace the motor bearings several years ago. I keep my hands far from the blade and use pusher sticks whenever there is any doubt about the safety of an operation. I have never even received so much as a scratch from using this saw. I expect this recall simply offers legal liability cover for all concerned.
My pleasure on the link Phil, not sure how I missed this last year as I've looked at all your 'struables over the years. But till now didn't have anything that would contribute so stayed silent. <br><br>I figured anyone interested could go read the dirty details them selves and decide if the offer is to their advantage. I'm sure your last line is the &quot;real deal.&quot; In a &quot;Nation of laws.&quot; lawyers are inevitable, however I'm still amazed at what supposedly 12 rational people will accept as an argument. Then I'm also amazed someone would continue to serve coffee just under a boil even after many warnings. The count came from an article that came up when I went to find the link.<br><br>My C'man RAS is a '75 or so and was a gift, So far truing is all it's needed. I ordered the kit mostly just to see what would come. The best part as far as I'm concerned was changing the direction of the dust port to face the back of the saw.
Thanks Phil. Yeah, no manual. It's a Rockwell, circa late 70's. I'm not much of a manual using kinda guy anyway. Simply seeing someone else tear their machine apart first gives me a glimpse of what I can expect.
I have known people who have a Rockwell about that vintage. Some of the parts are different, but there should be enough similarity in the overall structure that you will do well. If anything, my Instructable may save you some headaches because it outlines the steps for aligning one of these saws. If you were to follow a different order of steps, misalignment from an earlier step would make it impossible to get consistent alignment in later steps.
Nice clear instructions, Phil. I have a miter saw; reading your Instructable makes me wish I had gone with a radial arm, or at least the sliding type miter saw. <br> <br>I have to disassemble and adjust my miter saw each Spring. Why Spring? (I'm embassed by this)! During Winter, I keep my garage workshop warm with a wood stove. Most of our firewood is too long to fit into the small stove, so I cut it to length with an old blade in the miter saw. Does not help the precise alignment.
Bill, In my teen years I had long wanted a bench saw or a table saw. As you know, power miter boxes did not exist then. One Christmas my parents gave me enough money to buy a good 7 inch circular saw. With inspiration from some similar articles in the DIY magazines, I developed some modifications and made a precise conversion to a table saw described in <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Precise-Table-Saw-from-an-Electric-Hand-Saw/" rel="nofollow">this Instructable</a>. A couple of years later Sears brought out a model change and ran a 30 percent off sale on their older style radial arm saws. I bought one with my wife's approval because of the multiple operations of which it is capable. It is because the radial arm saw can function as more than one tool that I have one, and is also the reason why I do not have a power miter saw.<br> <br> I have long thought it is a shame that many people bought radial arm saws back a few decades, but under-used them as a cut-off saw or a storage table for garden chemicals. Now many younger people do not even know what they are. I have been trying to change that.&nbsp;
Osvaldo,<br> <br> Here is part of an advertisement for the AMT radial arm saw from a 1967 <u>Popular Mechanics</u> magazine. I may have posted something like this for you earlier. I do not remember for certain.
Thanks, Phil. I remember, too, but I think was another model. Anyway, my design will be far more simple, for obvious reasons... <br> <br>
Welcome back, Phil, I did miss you! <br> <br>Excellent instructable, as always. Every time you mention that type of saw, I get excited by make one for me, although it will be precarious. Now I have almost everything I need, I only need to decide to work. I am working (sometimes) in the motor pop-pop-Stirling, it will take some months.
Osvaldo, <br> <br>When I was doing this Instructable I remembered that you said you want to build a radial arm saw someday. I thought the photos of the interior workings would give you a better idea of how it is constructed. Still, you will have a big effort ahead of you. <br> <br>Once there was a US firm named AMT (American Machine and Tool) that marketed an inexpensive radial arm saw made from widely available materials. The arm was two square tubes. The motor was any available electric motor and used a belt drive. There were a couple of special castings, but you could make what you need by welding your own special fixtures. Perhaps I mentioned this to you before. It seems to me one of the home how-to magazines once did a review of it. If I can find that on-line, I will send the Internet address for you.
Phil, I was thinking to use directly my hand grinder as motor. <br> <br>Yes, my idea is to use square tubes, too. At the rotary vertical hinge I think to use a wasted steel masonry cutting disc, to fasten the axis in its angle. When I will decide to make it, first I will draw a design, to avoid time loses (as always). <br> <br>Thanks for your concern.

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