There are two keys to a good salt water aquarium. The first is good equipment and the second is PATIENCE. The first thing you need is of course the aquarium. I started with a 10 gallon because it costs less, but what I save in cost I make up for in daily to every-other-day maintanance. This tutorial is really based on a nano tank (20 gallons or less) because that is what I have experience with and that is all I can afford at the moment. (This tutorial will assume you have chosen a smaller tank) After you have decided the size of the aquarium you will want to buy a POWER FILTER. Always buy it 20-30 gallons bigger than the aquarium you have. (I have a 10 gal. so I bought a 30 gal.) You should also buy a LIGHT HOOD for your aquarium. Coral life/sun is a good bulb that can be bought at any fish store and I suggest a 50/50 bulb. Another important piece of equipment will be your HYDROMETER because this will measure how much salt is in your aquarium. The next step is to buy the SAND live rock for your aquarium. As far as sand, the best by far is the live caribean sea sand sold in bags that have water with the sand. This sand already has good algae and chemicals that is important for you tank. For a tank smaller than a 10 gal. I found that florida crushed coral works well because it is sold in smaller portions, however the live sand cycled the tank faster than the crushed coral. (Don't worry 'cycling' is coming up) LIVE ROCK part of aquarium keeping because it gives the tank the look you want. 1 pound per a gallon of rock is the average, but 1 or 4 pounds over is always a plus. The best pieces are the big light one. This is because it creates better water circulation through the pores. When choosing rock I found one good piece of rock then a few medium size pieces to pu around it creating caves and crevices which fish enjoy. After pooring your sand into the aquarium and arranging the rock the way you want, you can add the SALTWATER. The first saltwater I got was bought from my Local Fish Store(LFS) because I wanted to be sure the salinity was perfect. The ideal salinity is 1.023-1.025. It can range .001 above or below but this is ideal for everything that will go into the tank. When pouring the water in, attempt to pour in the rocks because this will cause less sand disturbance. After this step is where the PATIENCE comes in. Apart from waiting for the water to clear up from adding the water, you now have to wait for the cycle.
I highly recommend you check out http://garf.org/ they will tell you how to set up a tank that has almost no impact on wild reefs. Which is where most fish, inverts, and corals at your LFS come from. Just you you know I worked in the pet industry for about 10 years. My main areas were marine and freshwater aquariums and reptiles. 3 out of the 10yrs I was in charge of the aquatics departments. not to mention all the mantience I did on customers tanks.
So anyways where is your heater, your pic of your light is the wrong kind (those are the cheap incandescent bulbs) where is your fluorescent, or CFL lighting.
I'm sorry I'm being mean about your instructable. I highly recommend you check out that site. as well as anyone else who is interested.
http://www.reefnutrition.com/
The tigger pods would probably be one of the good products that this particular company has to offer. ArctiPods would be another possibility.
Without providing copepods of some sort the Mandarin Goby will die due to lack of food. Check with members of the online reef community such as reeffrontiers.com or reefcentral.com. I think you would find that most everybody will agree who has experience in this matter.
All the best, Marine tanks are cool huh
artguy1