Loops are sewn into the ends of lines on paragliders, certain kites, and many other applications. It is a very strong way of creating a loop, and it does not snag as easily as a knot would
This is meant to be a very basic overview of how I sew a loop into the end of a line. I intend to keep it a broad as possible - it is quite simple, however, I personally would have liked to have found a simple instructional guide to it when I taught myself - so hopefully this is that for some people.
I use Bonded Nylon thread, however I know some people believe that other threads like Dacron are better for this use.
This is meant to be a very basic overview of how I sew a loop into the end of a line. I intend to keep it a broad as possible - it is quite simple, however, I personally would have liked to have found a simple instructional guide to it when I taught myself - so hopefully this is that for some people.
I use Bonded Nylon thread, however I know some people believe that other threads like Dacron are better for this use.
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Signing UpStep 1: Make the guide plate
To keep the line aligned when sewing, a guide plate is used. Anything fairly rigid - about 0.5 - 0.75 times the thickness of the line should work. The one pictured is plastic. This plate will get taped to the machine under the presser foot. Cut a slot in the plate twice the thickness of the line wide, by a few inches long. A sharp utility knife and straight edge work well,
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This works really well. But, there is just something that feels good about being able to do the same thing just using old-fashioned rope tying/wrapping skills. But, that is just my own personal preference and sense of doing things.
It means that when you are stuck, you know the safe, correct solution using the rope alone.
For other types of braided and twisted ropes - spicing is a good method for joining however
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UghIS9xdiDw
Maybe you could make friends with the local engineering school and get them to test some splices to test breaking strength and repeatability. I bet the line fails before the splice.
The only thing I might be concerned about with Sky-Monkey's technique is that there is no backstitching at the beginning and end. This is common in all forms of sewing to "lock in" the seam to keep it from unraveling. I've seen videos of sewing sailing harnesses and sail repair. It is used there. For my sailing lines, the melting technique is substandard because it creates hard (sometimes sharp) edges and results in a little line chafe. Sky-Monkey, please chime in here and correct my ignorance wrt/ paragliding.
Regardless, I'm excited to learn about paragliding. Yet another item on the wish list!
A while back I was told that the less piercing of the line the better, and more recently, a friend (who has more sewing experience than me) told me that if I halved the length of my zig-zag, that it would up the strength 4 fold.
One of the important points that I just added to step 3, is to use a very sharp needle - seems counter-intuitive in a way, but the sharper it is, the less likely it will damage the fibers on its way through - and if you are using a sharp needle, then It would seem to make sense that more stitching isn't necessarily a bad thing
Never-the-less, I have never seen a loop fail - only the lines
Thanks for all the input
The core inside paraglider lines is not braided, and thus cannot be spliced (plus they are really small, and I feel like it would be really difficult to do on lines that small if it was) - See additional photo in intro for what the core looks like
Thank you for pointing that out :)
guess I should leave paragliders make their own comments when it comes to it : I'm just making a fool of myself ! …
:))
It great to have people who don't just believe everything they hear, and take it as fact. Everyone makes mistakes, and its nice to know that there are people out there double checking
Sewing back and fourth repeatedly can weaken the line by jabbing the needle through more times than necessary - Although sewing back on itself for this application would work, I am not sure that it is the best solution
Clear nail polish or a dab of craft cement is another way to seal the ends and prevent fraying. Bead-cord crimps over both strands, covering the short ends , might look especially nice if you can find a suitable size.
I used plain cardboard to make the guide, and everything went prefectly well with my very simple and old Brother sewing-machine. My friend says it should work with the mending tool sold with the machine, but since your method is great, I won't have to try it for a while :)
Thanks again !