Step 1: Materials
-Shearling -about half of a small fleece
-Soft leather - about one square foot
-Scrap wool blanket - about one square foot
Very few tools are necessary.
-a sheet of newsprint for patterns
-measuring, marking, and cutting tools
-your favorite way to sew
(mine happens to be a treadle powered Singer sewing machine made in 1896)
Step 2: Create the Pattern
Wrap a single layer of shearling around the head to be fit and measure just above the ears.
On this hat the measurement is 23 inches.
Draw a rectangle 23 inches long by 8 inches wide to which 1/4 inch is added for a seam allowance on all sides.
The second part of the pattern is only a little more difficult.
Draw an oval with a circumference of 23 inches. ( I measured the opening of a felt hat for length and width of the oval.)
To raise the top up about one inch I added a second oval one inch (+ 1/4 inch seam allowance) outside the original line.
This of course is an oval that is greater than 23 inches so I placed four darts around the circumference to bring it back. They are about 2 inches deep toward the center of the hat to give it a more slanted top.
Cut this piece out of the paper.
Step 3: Mark and Cut Out the Pieces
Place the shearling hide side up and mark the rectangular pattern on it.
Cut the skin with a sharp knife along a straight edge.
The fleece will part when pulled.
Piece 2 - The top
Place the scrap of soft leather inside up to mark the oval and its darts.
I use talcum powder in a bag to wipe around the edge of the pattern. I shows up well on dark leather and is easy to remove when cleaning up.
Cut the oval out with a knife or shears.
Do not cut the darts at this time.
Piece 3 - The lining
Pin the top pattern to the wool piece and cut out. Again not cutting the darts.
Step 4: Begin Sewing
Fold the shearling in half (fleece in) and sew across the short side at 1/4 inch in.
Trim the seam back to 1/8 inch with shears.
Fold the darts together one at a time (outside in) and sew along the lines marked.
Once all four are done, trim the seams back to 1/8 inch.
Most important - Sew your makers label in the center.
Step 5: Piece and Sew It All Together
Turn the shearling tube fleece out and place the top inside up in the end of it. Make sure to center the shearling seam at the back of the hat.
Lay the lining in place and fold the edge under to prevent fraying and match edges of all pieces. Fasten firmly with staples in the outter 1/8 inch.
This is where all pieces can be adjusted to remove wrinkles and make the sewing smooth.
Sew around the hat at the 1/4 inch seam allowance. Remove the staples as you come to them to prevent breaking a needle or forgetting them.
Step 6: Final Cleanup
Fold in 1/2 inch of the shearling and sew 1/4 inch seam to finish the edge.
Roll the tube up in half with shearling inside and out.
Step 7: Wear It
I hope you enjoy this style hat that has rarely been seen in recent years.
It is extremely warm and will make your head sweat if you are doing anything that might be considered exercise, such as splitting wood.