Me and my son invented/developed a new concept of "On-The Fly" 8bit Laser Diode engraving photos over two years ago. With this concept, the Laser Diode never turns off through the whole photo engraving process. It just varies the power up and down to produce the image and shading on the engraved material. We have came a long way since those days at the beginning of our experimentation and here is the instructions of our latest build on a Shapeoko 2.

Photos can now be engraved on different materials using a variable intensity controlled Laser Diode to get 8bit shading. The materials we have tested successfully so far is, wood, white stained wood, white painted aluminum, mirrors, white leather and white Artist Canvas. White materials gives us the best 8bit shades of gray and on mirrors we actually get shades between white and silver or the reflection. The mirror also gives us a lithophane effect with some back lighting, but looks very good without back lighting as well.

The standard laser photo engraving process prior to our development was to TTL modulate (Pulse) the material with burnt spots/dots using a dithered black & white image to get the allusion of gray shades.

Commercial CO2 laser engraving machines are still are using this old school method today to engrave photos. Higher end CO2 engraving machines do use 256 (8bit) separate power levels to 3D engrave. With the excessive laser power of these machines, it's like a bull in a china shop to be able to implement our 8bit photo engraving process successfully like when using a considerably lower wattage Laser Diode.

Since our development of this concept, many hobbyist, makers and businesses has followed our progression and applied this very unique process on there own CNC machines to engrave 8bit grayscale images/photos using a Laser Diode. Two of them are presented here and here on Instructables, one very successful campaign on KickStarter, and manyhobbyist throughout the world that are using our very unique 8bit engraving process. More examples of our Laser Diode engravings can be seen here using this concept.

This method of varied intensity of a laser diode requires a proper "Image to Gcode" program, a Computer Numerical Controlled (CNC) machine, motor controller, MA3 Absolute Magnetic Shaft Encoder or a DAC, varied modulation laser diode driver and a Laser Diode in the 1W-5W range to do the 8bit shading on the materials. We prefer a 445nm wavelength Laser Diode and the one we used in this project has a max output power of 2.5W.

With the years of experimenting on different CNC machines with ball screws, linear ways, stepper & servo motors and controller software, we decided to experiment with a stepper belt drive Shapeoko 2 run by an Arduino UNO R3 this time.

We are the second owners of this Shapeoko 2 and our very good friend John Champlain purchased it new from inventables. This is the actual machine that he used for the development of our grbl related engraving software programs. John uses an electronic 8bit DAC circuit he designed and built for varying the modulation voltage to the laser diode driver for varied intensity Laser Diode control. His DAC takes the output of the step & direction ports from a breakout board or the pins on an Arduino UNO and converts it to a 0-5 DC voltage from axis movements in the Gcode and outputs it to the variable modulation input on the Laser driver.

John is the first to be successful using our varied Intensity controlled Laser Diode concept with grbl and an Arduino UNO. The Arduino UNO R3 that we are using on this build was purchased by John from Radio Shack and shipped to us for our testing and experimentation.

We used the stock 3 axis v5 grbl shield that came with the Shapeoko 2, the UNO is flashed with grbl 9g, our Image to Gcode raster engraving program PicLaser Lite, our PicEdit Lite image editing program and our PicSender program to handle streaming the large raster gcode files to the Arduino & grbl. We also use our PicSet program to quickly change to different grbl settings depending on what type of Laser Diode photo engraving we are performing.

These four outstanding software programs were written by our very good friend, John Champlain for the Arduino grbl controlled CNC engraving machines and PicLaser Lite has the option to generate Gcode for other CNC controllers as well. John is also the author of our full featured "Image to Gcode" program PicEngrave Pro 5 + Laser.

We are really surprised of the performance and excellent results we are able to achieved with our Laser Diode photo engraving experimentation using the Shapeoko 2 controlled by an Arduino UNO.

Some modifications to the Shapeoko 2 and allot of experimenting with the settings was needed to get everything tuned in just right and here is our instructions how we were able to achieved success. We prefer to use the "Standard grbl 9g" as there are so many variations/branches of grbl out there that may not work as successfully for this application.

A special thank you goes out to Sonny Jeon (chamnit) also for his dedication and excellent work on grbl to make this all possible controlling our Shapeoko 2 CNC machine smoothly. We use the X-Loader for flashing his grbl 9g to the Arduino UNO.

After we finished this project, we have changed our Shapeoko 2 over to a J-Tech Photonics Laser System and started using Andy's PWM LaserMode grbl to control it and we are getting excellent results. Details of it can be seen here..


  • Step 1: Changes to the Shapeoko's Table
  • Step 2: Adding a MA3 Magnetic Shaft Encoder to the Z axis
  • Step 3: Changing Belts and Pulleys on the X & Y Axis
  • Step 4: Adding a Laser Diode to the Shapeoko
  • Step 5: Wiring the Components and Laser Diode Amp Settings
  • Step 6: Setting up grbl 9g, grbl Shield & Focusing the Lens
  • Step 7: Our Software Settings for 8bit Laser Diode Photo Engraving
  • Step 8: Setting up the Shapeoko for Laser Diode Photo Engraving
  • Step 9: 8bit Laser Diode Photo Engraving
  • Step 10: 1bit TTL (pulsing) Laser Diode Photo Engraving
  • Step 11: 8bit Laser Diode Photo Engraving on White Artist Canvas
  • Step 12: 3D Laser Diode Photo Engraving with Shading
  • Step 13: Credits

Step 1: Changes to the Shapeoko's Table

As a machinist for 40 years now, clamping materials in machines comes natural for me. The MDF board table that comes stock was just not to my liking, so a new table was needed with a way to clamp my engraving materials in place precisely.

We found McMaster Carr sells aluminum T-slot track for a .250" (6.35mm) bolt, so I calculated how many we would need to cover the travel of the Shapeoko with 1" spacers in-between them. Nine was what we needed with the 12" (305mm) travel of the X axis. The lengths are 24" (609.6mm) long and sticking out the front and back, but this was not a problem.

The 20mm (.7874") square aluminum extrusion framing on the Shapeoko 2 for the original MDF bed had slots on all four sides. I needed only 2 slots 180 degrees from each other and the other two sides without slots to screw the T-Slot track down to. McMaster Carr also sells this 20mm (.7874") framing just as I needed. So we could attach these on the end plates for the Y axis MakerSlide supports and to tie the center of the table together. We ordered 3 of them 24" (609.6mm) long. Again, these being longer then the original ones, sticking out the sides further did not effect anything. No cutting to a shorter length was necessary. The McMaster Carr part number for the T-Slot track is 1850A14 and the 20mm (609.6mm) square framing is 5537T117.

The spacers we used in-between the T-Slot track is .500" (12.7mm) square aluminum tubing and we used two between each T-Slot track. We had that in stock here at our shop leftover from a previous job and just cut them to the same 24" (609.6mm) length.

To tie all these table parts together, it took some calculating and drilling holes in the T-Slot track & 20mm (.7874") framing for #8 Pan head sheet metal screws. I included a drawing with these general dimensions. The Shapeoko's dimensions between end plates may vary slightly, so some dimensional adjustments may be required.

We ran all the screws in loosely, then used a bar clamp to tighten all the T-Slot track and spacers up tight and made sure everything was square and flush then tightened up all the #8 screws.

As shown in the picture, two pieces of aluminum stock was added for the material starting reference place and to insure the material would be square in the Shapeoko. We added a Shop Fox Cam Clamp to hold the material in place and it's placement is adjustable in the T-Slot Tracks.

Safety is number one priority for everyone here including our pets, so we added a Laser light shield to the Shapeoko 2 and mounted them with L brackets from our local hardware store.

<p>I am currently working on converting my 3d Printer/CNC Router to a laser engraver and I had a question about the material you used for the shielding. I followed the link you included for the material and I noticed that it doesn't specifically say anything about shielding laser light. Is really reliable for this application? Also, would it be enough for a higher power laser? (around 6W)</p>
<p>can you advise as to where you bought your laser protection windows?</p>
<p><strong>3D engraving with 6W 450nm NUBM44 Laser Diode. Gcode was generated with PicEngrave Pro 5 and was streamed to grbl 9J with PicSender. Analog modulation with the US Digital MA3 magnetic shaft encoder was used instead of PWM from the Arduino UNO R3.</strong></p>
<p>None of your links offer freeware alternatives.<br>If there is no chance to get the linked programs free of charge I would consider it advertising.<br>So my question is:<br>Do you still offer free versions of your software or do you only advertise and make freeware alternatives look bad?</p>
<p><b>Here is my question since you brought up the freeware subject.</b></p><p><b>Are these your posts??</b> </p><p></p><p><a href="https://forum.cgpersia.com/f19/picengrave-pro-5-laser-121722/#post1241815" rel="nofollow">https://forum.cgpersia.com/f19/picengrave-pro-5-laser-121722/#post1241815</a> </p><p><a href="https://forum.cgpersia.com/f19/vectric-photovcarve-117461/" rel="nofollow">https://forum.cgpersia.com/f19/vectric-photovcarve-117461/</a></p><p><a href="https://forum.cgpersia.com/search.php?searchid=41180354" rel="nofollow">https://forum.cgpersia.com/search.php?searchid=41180354</a></p><p><strong>Is this what you consider freeware alternatives and do you think this type of Illegal Piracy activity is acceptable to get commercial software for free??</strong></p>
<p>So to distract from your advertising campaigns you play dirty instead - nothing else to except from Picengrave.<br>1. I don't see what your reply has to do with you spamming the world.<br>2. It only shows that Picengrave still keeps track of people that try to crumble their monopoly.<br>3. Stop hijacking other peoples threads and topics just to dump bad comments and advertise your program!<br><br>Are you really that desperate that you fear a single person offering similar options to your commercial program for free is killing your business? LOOOOL<br>If Picengrave would have offered more support than &quot;What you want is not possible but we can sell you....&quot; than I would have never started the project.<br>But what's impossible for the professionals is possible for the little guy ;)</p>
<p>Thank you very much for spreading the word and advertising the PicEngrave software. </p><p>Here is another thread for your learning experience.</p><p> <a href="https://discuss.inventables.com/t/where-is-the-laser-engraving-category/299" rel="nofollow">https://discuss.inventables.com/t/where-is-the-las...</a></p><p>Keep practicing little guy as you may be able to laser engrave 8-bit grayscale with your CO2 like the professionals do with there laser diodes. ;-) </p>
<p>If i wanted to do it with a diod I would have added one to my printer, my aim was to do 2.5D engravings, which works just fine in 8bit.<br>I might be the little guy but from your old postings you struggelt even more to get going LOL<br>Not to mention that a lot of people did the beta testing for so you could move on to pure commercail products.<br>But it is nice to see that after all those years you still fear the competition of the small guys.<br><br>I would not have bothered with all the coding and testing if your company would have offer support instead of insults when I asked for help on how to use your software on a noname machine.<br>Some people either can't afford a few thausand bucks for a pro system or they simply like to experiment.<br>Something you did in your early days too, so all I can say is that I am very disappointed by your attitude with what you classify as a beginner.<br>If at least you guys would offer real help in the forums you hijack all could be fine but all you do is insult and advertise, so how do you expect those people to react to it?<br>Would you like outher companies advertise similar products on your website if these companies have no relation to you?<br></p>
<p><strong>Thank you for your kind words. If you need anymore professional help, I would be happy to help you. And thanks again for all your advertising of the PicEngrave software.</strong></p><p><strong>FYI, this may help you to learn the difference between 2D, 2.5D and 3D engraving processes. A laser diode will do a much better job at 3D engraving.</strong></p><p><em><a href="http://forum.darklylabs.com/index.php?p=/discussion/362/3d-engraving-using-picengrave-pro-5" rel="nofollow">http://forum.darklylabs.com/index.php?p=/discussion/362/3d-engraving-using-picengrave-pro-5</a></em></p><p><strong>You sure have allot to learn!!</strong></p>
<p>More 3D engraving examples we have done with our EmBlaser.</p><p><a href="http://forum.darklylabs.com/index.php?p=/discussion/362/3d-engraving-using-picengrave-pro-5">http://forum.darklylabs.com/index.php?p=/discussio...</a></p>
<p>i new to cnc and software but I been on the grbl site and can not find where I can down load the software ,, can you help </p>
<p>What software are you looking for? LaserMode grbl? Arduino UNO software?</p>
Arduino uno ,, I am running a small cnc ,, which I am buying the board of ebay ,,the seller gave me a link to zapmaker to down load it but I wanted to upgrade to .9 I down loaded grbl 3.0 and inkscape
<p>Download the J-Tech grbl 9g PWM lasermode hex file from our forums main page and flash it to your UNO with the X-Loader. http://russemotto.com/xloader/ </p><p>It's setup for PWM on pin 11 &amp; ground using S0-S255 commands to control a laser with a proper driver. It will also except X,Y,Z commands.</p><p><a href="http://www.picengrave.com/forum/index.php">http://www.picengrave.com/forum/index.php</a></p>
<p>thanks for the info ,, I see if I can do that,, I have down loaded grbl ,, of zapmaker .. not to Shaw what you mean or how I flash it to uno,, I have not got the arduino board yet ,, coming from ebay. I did get on the ardunio site .. not 100 % what I was doing on there ,,as to down load it ??. any way ,,thanks for your help .. I have a look to day </p>
<p>You will need to load the Arduino drivers on your PC to communicate with it using a USB com port.</p><p><a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software">https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software</a></p>
<p>thanks ,, I sign up on the web site so I can lean all about them. it looks like I need the board set up to set up the arduino . just asking so with </p><p>J-Tech grbl 9g where do I put that in and what does that do ?? ,, sorry I ask a lot but I new to this ..</p>
<p>The J-Tech grbl is for controlling a laser with gcode commands and the hex file needs to be flashed to the UNO with the X-Loader program. The UNO does not come with any programming installed, so this process will program it using a USB.</p><p>If your not planning on using a laser, then the standard latest grbl release needs to be flashed to the UNO to program it.</p><p>https://github.com/grbl/grbl</p>
<p>thanks ,, I been on that site and I think I down load the software ,, is the down load area on the right hand side ?? grgl master ,,?? it just saved in a file ,, I looked for a exe file to in stall it ,,but could not find it or maybe I down loaded the wrong link .. as fare as flash ?? I think you mean copy the file in to the grbl file ?? </p>
<p>Yes, the grbl master. It's a hex file. Just right click on the screen and select save as. It will save with a .txt extension. After saving it, rename it by removing the .txt at the end of the file where it just has the .hex extension. That's the file you flash to the Arduino UNO using the X-Loader program.</p><p><a href="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/grbl/grbl-builds/master/builds/grbl_v0_9j_atmega328p_16mhz_115200.hex">https://raw.githubusercontent.com/grbl/grbl-builds...</a></p><p>After programming (flashing) the UNO, connect to it with a gcode streamer and go through and change the grbl settings for your machine. Instructions are here.</p><p>https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Configuring-Grbl-v0.9</p>
<p>Since I don't know of any other way to contact you, this will have to suffice. I've been trying to contact Andy and ask for some more detailed directions but haven't had any replies. Do you know of any way to contact him and let him know I would like some help.</p>
<p>You downloaded our Demo programs from our web site and you did not see the &quot;Contact &amp; Links&quot; button at the top of all the pages?</p><p>Contact Andy in the comments section of his instructables. </p>
<p>You have an incredible Instructable, unfortunately I can't get the laser to work right with my machine. It's a DIY unit with an Uno, Protoneer CNC shield, the Russian laser driver and have tried it with GRBL 8 &amp; 9, Andrew's version, Jtech's version, Standard version, etc. etc. etc. The Laser will burn if I connect the modulation to 5v but nothing else. I really want to engrave photos but am frustrated because I can't even engrave anything. Any suggestions from any body? Please!!!!</p>
<p>What pins on the UNO are you using for the PWM? With The J-Tech LaserMode grbl it's Pin D11 &amp; ground. It requires S0-S255 commands for laser control. </p>
<p>it is on D11. For the TTL line test, do I need to add that to the code or is it already there?</p>
<p>It needs to be in the gcode streamed to the UNO. To engrave images with varied intensity the S commands need to be on every line of gcode with the X&amp;Y axis moves. Our PicLaser Lite and PicEngrave Pro 5 will generate these gcode files to engrave images with your laser. </p><p>http://www.picengrave.com/index.htm</p>
<p>Cool. Now I get errors like the one that I attached. I got very similar ones with PLL. Any suggestions on that?</p><p>If you're in the US, what time zone?</p>
<p>If your getting errors in PLL, it's most likely your trying to open a non supported .bmp image format. Try opening your image in Paint and save in the Windows .bmp format.</p><p>We found that timeout error occurs when users click one button then another before the first one finishes it's command. Have you uploaded the latest Demo v2.2.1 of PicSender?</p><p>Eastern.</p>
<p>I'm getting that error as I'm waiting on the Uno &amp; GRBL to initialize. </p>
<p>You must have your baud rate set to 9600 instead of 115200. Close PicSender, then reopen and set the baud rate to 115200 and try opening the Com Port again. </p>
<p>The drop down is showing 115200 but I'll try it at 9600 and then switch back and see what happens. I had that happen with mm vs inch.</p>
Thanks guys for such an awesome instructable. Am now engraving to my hearts desire. <br><br>I converted my XYZ Da Vinci 1.0 to laser engrave as well as 3D print. I tried the Russian laser driver twice and both were fails. I decided to support American made products by getting the J Tech driver. Best use of a $100 I ever spent. I also got your PicLaser Lite and PicSender. I deleted UGS as well as GRBL Controller. I haven't looked back since. <br><br>I will be getting PicEdit Lite soon. Right now I have been editing my pics using PicEdit Lite then using print screen, then opening it up in Microsoft paint to cutout my pic. Next I am running it through PicLaser then to PicSender with astonishing results. <br><br>Keep it coming guys.
<p>Thanks for the kind words. We have a promotion this month and since you already are a Registered PicLaser Lite user, just purchase PicEdit Lite and receive a free License of PicFRC.</p><p><a href="http://www.picengrave.com/PicFRC.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.picengrave.com/PicFRC.htm</a></p><p>Look at our other instructables and see how PicFRC can add more shading enhancement to your Laser photo engravings by adding a variable feedrate to the gcode.</p><p>https://www.instructables.com/id/CNC-Spindle-Laser-Diode-Photo-Engraving-Enhancemen/ </p>
<p>hi there</p><p>i cant still get my machine to work continuous and not to stop on every dot....please help somebody(have grbl 0.9 shapeoko 2 firmware)...also the pwm doesnt work...can only switch the laser on and off(cmd M03&amp;M05)</p>
<p>If you have the appropriate laser diode driver, you need to flash your UNO with the J-Tech PWM LaserMode grbl 9g hex download on our forum.</p><p><a href="http://www.picengrave.com/forum/index.php" rel="nofollow">http://www.picengrave.com/forum/index.php</a></p><p>It uses S0-S255 commands to vary the intensity with PWM from Pin 11 &amp; ground.</p>
<p>hi...i have the mini pro(atmega 32)....make this any difference?...i will make a bigger machine but have still issues with this one...now engraving shades of gray are impossible</p>
<p>I would not recommend using anything else than a real Arduino UNO R3 for machine and laser control. We have no experiance using a Mini Pro. </p>
<p>I really love this kind of projects, also already purchased my LD a 445nm 1w :P with ttl and analog support for laser output control, but I having issues with where to connect the laser on-off in GRBL v9, what pin I should use?? because in some firmwares there some swapped pins with the new pwm control implementation and I want to know how to use this new feature or I should stay with the classic Grbl v8.<br><br>Let's say a cut case, using grbl v8 and 12 pin no extra hardware just laser and arduino and grbl controller ready to go (hypothetical case) with what software I should use to generate the G-code and with what parameters.<br>I'm a newbie in this laser cut stuff :) but no problem at all in electronic, so maybe I'll figured a way to convert PWM to analog signal for the 8 bit shades of gray something like the picture attached using 2 arduinos connected or something like that </p><p>https://github.com/grbl/grbl/issues/243</p><p>.</p>
<p>Download the J-Tech LaserMode PWM grbl from our forum and try it.</p><p><a href="http://www.picengrave.com/forum/index.php" rel="nofollow">http://www.picengrave.com/forum/index.php</a></p><p>If your driver can except TTL at 1Khz, then it should work for you. It's setup on pin 11 and then you can use S0-S255 laser power commands from our PicLaser Lite, or PicEngrave Pro 5 image to gcode programs. You will need a reliable gcode streamer, so look at our PicSender program also. We just released V2.1.4 today.</p><h4><a href="http://www.picengrave.com/Pic%20Programs.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.picengrave.com/Pic%20Programs.htm</a></h4>
<p>Could someone shed some light on my situation...? I am using arduino v0.9i with PWM enabled... I recently thought I would try using a Flexmod P3 laser driver with it rather than just a MOSFET for switching my laser. Trouble I am encountering is that whenever I sent the Flexmod P3 a signal from pin 11 on my arduino (PWM) the Flexmod P3 goes into fault and turns on the red light. I've tried various sxxx values..with all the same result. Is there anything I am missing between the D11 Pin (PWM) and the M+ on the Flexmod P3? Does it make a difference if I send the signal using M03 (clockwise) vs. M04 (counterclockwise)? any help is apprecieated. Thank you. </p>
<p>Are you tying the ground together from the Arduino to the power/modulation ground on the Flexmod? Also, have you jumped the interlock to the power in on the Flexmod? Also there is two pads that needs to be soldered together for disabling the seven second startup delay.</p><p>Here is some info on it.</p><p>http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/showthread.php/20072-Flexmod-p3-question-which-pads-disable-the-7-second-startup?highlight=flexmod+delay</p>
<p>yes, I have the ground tied together, and I have already soldered the jumper, and the interlock has been tied to the power supply. I will experiment with it again this week hopefully. I am waiting on a new easydriver board... one of mine gave up the ghost and decided to only do 1/4 steps suddenly. </p>
<p>Thank you for an excellent instructable on laser engraving using a shapepo. Very detailed and well commented. </p>
<p>Thank you for the kind words!</p>
<p>hi</p><p>what the type of laser can i use</p><p>i want to know if the laser removes the powder coated paint from the surface of the Zippo Lighter to reveal the bare brass metal underneath.</p><p>like this video on youtube</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/-Zjwc1OIHZU" width="500"></iframe></p><p>thanks</p>
<p>It says that was done with 20W fibre laser engraving machine. Our is only 2W and never tried laser engraving powder coat with it. </p>
<p>Hi very nice I have independently been working on a similar design one big change is that I am using pin 11(the new version supports spindle speed control but you need to switch pins from 12 to 11) from grbl .9 to set the sig to the flex mod p3 driver. I have modified the grbl firmware to schedule the changes in spindle speed. This produces the need 5 volt sig that can be fed to the laser driver. </p>
<p>Thanks,</p><p>Implementing the PWM output in grbl 9 to vary the modulation voltage to the driver causes it to hesitate every time a spindle command is issued on each line of the raster gcode. Have you overcome this issue with your modification to grbl 9?</p><p>Are you able to get 10bit incremental voltage change resolution in the 0-5v range using PWM like we are getting with the MA3 magnetic shaft encoder, or will it only be 8bit? </p><p>What commands do you use for the PWM? S commands? PicLaser Lite will generate this type of gcode also.</p><p>Also, shouldn't pin 12 still be used to switch a 5v relay to turn ON the power to the Flexmod P3 at the beginning of the file with the M03 and OFF at the end file with the M05?</p>
<p>If you look at the docs for grbl using the variable speed requires the swapping of pin 12 for pin 11. This is because pin 11 has hardware support for for pwm and pin 12 does not.</p><p>You are correct that under normal situations the instrument will stop before processing the next GCode block, this is where I have changed the firmware basically what I am doing is saving the spindle speed to the GCode block. When the scheduler processes the block it updates the laser power based on the S command.</p><p>One pixel would look like this</p><p>G1X12.3S64</p><p>G1X12.55S122</p><p>G1X12.8S48</p><p>This will cause the instrument to move along the x axis changing the laser power at exactly the correct time.</p><p>The nice thing about this is it does not require use of the Z axis.</p><p>I am currently working on a kickstarter that will be using this feature.</p><p>As to the resolution I am only using 8 bits. This value is governed by the hardware register on the arduino that controls the PWM. I am not sure it will support 10 bits but now that you mention it I am curious I will check Monday and let you know.</p><p>One downside to my solution is do to the code size I needed to comment out the homing routine to make room for my modifications.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm a machinist with over 40 years experience. Our hobby/passion is image engraving using spindles and laser diodes on CNC machines. Now this ... More »
More by PicengraverToo:CNC Spindle Laser Diode Photo Engraving Enhancement App    Shapeoko 2, Arduino UNO R3, grbl 9g, 8bit Laser Diode Photo Engraving 
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