Introduction: Shapeoko 2 Dust Cabinet With Lighting

If you've worked with a CNC machine in a small room then you know how everything gets covered in 10 feet of dust. Ok, maybe not that much but this quick (cheap) build will help keep the dust from piling up in your room. Yes, you can always add a vacuum but if you've used this machine in a small room you know it gets really loud & annoying so adding more noise is not a first choice. After the job is done vacuum all the dust out! Ok, no more small talk, on to the build!

Step 1: BOM

5 - Foam Board (20x30x3/16in)

Acrylic Sheet (Whatever size you prefer your viewing window to be)

Double Sided Tape

24 AWG Wire (about 3-4 feet will work)

Heat Shrink Tubing (liquid electrical tape works too)

Masking Tape

JST connecter (Optional)

1 - Switch or your choice

2 - CREE CXA 1304 (or whatever you'd like to use)

3D printed (All these parts can be hand made or you can use something similar)

16 - 45 degree mounts (or something that will make your cabinet more structurally stable, tape won't get you there)

1 - 9V battery mount (tape works as well for this one)

2 - CREE LED mount


Tools

X Acto Knife

Scisors

Ruler (Straight Edge)

Hands

Feet (haha just kidding)

If you wanna hang your cabinet like I did mine, you'll need also:

String (I used 550 aka paracord)

Small Hooks (like the ones used to hang paintings or something similar)

3D printed anchors (or something to hold on to the top of your cabinet)

!-- I have atatched the .stl files I created to use for this project, feel free to print them if you got a printer!

Step 2: Measurements & Cuts

I made mine 28 inches wide by 24 inches deep with a 20 inch height. For the angle of the front view window I just winged it & went with what fit when the spindle was all the way forward.

1. Cut 2 inches off one of the foam boards 30 inch sides, making it 28 inches by 20 inches; this will be your ceiling.

2. Grab two of the other foam boards & stand them up. These will be your right & left wall. Place the piece you just cut along the top of the two boards. Mark one of the boards on the top then grab your acrylic sheet (mine is 12x18) & place it at a angle you like & that will clear the spindle when it is all the way forward. Remember you need some space around the window to make sure it is secure on the inside. Mark down the side of the board (the one you marked on the top) so you can cut your angle. This is how I got my angle for the front window, it's not as hard as it sounds. Always remember, measure twice & cut once!!!

3. Grab another foam board & cut it to a length & height that fits in the angle you chose. Mine board around the window is 15 inches by 27 1/4 inch.

4. With that same board place your sheet of acrylic where you want it & use the XActo knife to make a very light score around the acrylic. After you make the score, measure half an inch into the area of the acrylic so you can have room to stick the acrylic down. The bottom piece of this piece should fit almost perfectly on the flat part of the front.

5. Grab another foam board & cut it to the size that will fit as the back wall of your cabinet. Mine is 27 1/4" with a height of 20 inches.

Time to assemble!

Step 3: Assembly

1. Take your foam board that is gonna be used for the window & cut pieced of double sided tape & place them along the edge. After you did that, peel the other side off the double sided tape & place your acrylic sheet on top of the tape. Push firmly to make sure the tape is on there good! Add some masking tape around the window to prevent dust from escaping thought the gaps.

I also added a little side window I could look through to make little tweaks.

2. Take all your angle mounts & put a piece of double sided tape on both outside angles. Once you have done this you can start assembling the cabinet with the mounts.

3. Put your mounts on each corner so it is ready for the next piece to be stuck to it. It's best to do it piece by piece, rushing will just make things worse. The easiest way to get perfect alignment is to take your piece that are having a piece place on top of them & put them on the floor, remove one side of the double sided tape cover & push it against the ground onto the piece.

Refer to the images on how mine is put together, if you're actually reading through this, you are awesome & you should follow me on twitter @larryservin!!

4. Add masking tape around the edges to prevent dust from escaping.

After the shell is all put together this is just about it if you aren't adding lighting & hanging it.

Step 4: Lighting

For this step you're gonna need your wire, switch, LED's, heat shrink tubing & masking tape. Soldering iron is good to use to make sure the connections are perfect in the circuit.

1. Look for a good spot on your cabinet to add the switch, I used the back part of the switch to cut a circle that the switch would fit into. Put the switch through the hole, screw on the back & continue.

2. Get your LED's & the mounts & put double sided tape on both sides so they are ready to be stuck on. Choose where you want your LED's to be located & remove the backing of the double sided tape & stick them where you want them.

3. If you notice on the mount there is a hold underneath where the LED goes, figure out which side is closest to the top & run that wire from the opposite side through the hole to be ready to be soldered on. After you did that then solder the correct wires to the LED, I used red for positive(+) & black for negative(-).

4. Make sure you run the wires back to the switch one LED at a time so that you can have the proper amount of wire. I used masking tape to keep the wires secure to the walls. After you run both LED wires to the switch you can continue.

5. Take your two positive red wires & run them to one pole on the switch, solder them on & heat shrink.

6. I added a JST connector between the battery & the 9V connector so I can change the source of power if I chose to. So if you're doing this then solder the red wire to the other pole on the switch. IF you're not then get a red wire that's going to positive on the battery & solder that to the other pole on the switch.

7. Connect all the black wires together & solder them, even the one from the JST connector or if you aren't using the JST then solder a black wire here that will go to negative on the battery. I added heat shrink tubing to keep the circuit from shorting.

8. Once all the wire are on & guarded from shorting, test your switch to see if your LED's work! They should but if you're having problems then maybe you should use a battery that's not dead... haha jk just make sure you have everything wired right & they should come on when you flip the switch or when you add the power cause the switch was already in the on position.

These LED's are 9V LED's so this power is good for them but make sure you use the proper voltage & current if you decide to go with other LED's.

Now you got lighting! On to the next!

Step 5: Lift

I chose to do this cause the room I work in is pretty small so removing the cabinet & putting it aside while I changed the stock would just get in the way.

You're gonna need your 3D printed anchors, string, & small hooks.

1. Get your small hooks & put one of them directly above your CNC machine & the other somewhere where it can be tied while it's up. I chose a wall to the right, if you look closely you can see how the string has a knot that just stays in the hook. I got the placement for the knot after all these steps were done.

2. Now to cut the holes for the anchors. The way I made mine was measuring 4 inches from the back & 4 inches from the front then measuring half of the width which would be 14 inches. The two anchors that go on the front are measured from the center out 7 inches. Push the anchors through the inside so they pop out of the top & you have a place to add your string.

3. Make 3 even loops & string one through each of the anchors. Then grab the string that is hung from the roof & tie it through all three of the loops. Even though its made out of foam board it's still not light enough for the tiny hooks I had, it pulled out of the ceiling. You might need something that is good for the type of ceiling that you have.

After all this then you should be good to go! You might need to make some tweaks to fit your liking

Step 6: Finished

That's it! I just saved your room the dust hurricane! haha

There's other cool things you can add to this like an exhaust fan, a camera, or something fun but that's for a later time!

If you have any questions feel free to contact me!!

Thanks for checkin out this build!!

Step 7: Updates

I added a exhaust fan cause acrylic.

Comments

author
livichris (author)2014-09-14

I really want to get a shapeoko if (hopefully when!) I get one, this is definitely getting built.

About This Instructable

6,198views

130favorites

License:

Bio: I'm a problem solver
More by larryservin:Shapeoko 2 Dust Cabinet With LightingWiFi Enabled Puppy Condo
Add instructable to: