Introduction: Shed

Picture of Shed

For this DIY project, I built 8 ft. x 6 ft. shed, instead of buying one. This is also my first shed build.

Step 1: Tools

Let’s start with tools used:

Hammer

Showel

Miter Saw

7-1/4 in. Circular Saw

Jig Saw

Impact Driver/Drill

Speed triangle

4 ft. Beam Level

Caulk Gun

Various clamps

Kreg K4MS Jig Master System

Step 2: Materials

Nails: 1 box of roofing 1 1/4 in, and two boxes of 2 in. 6D Exterior Galvanized nails.
Screws: 3 1/2 in. exterior grade (5 lb box) and 2 1/2 in. exterior grade (1 lb box) screws.

Floor:

I built floor/ foundation from 2 in.x 6 in. pressure treated lumber.

7 x (2 in.x 6 in. x 8 ft.) Pressure treated

2 x (3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.) Ground Contact Pressure Treated Plywood

6 x (4 in. x 4 in.) posts I had these left over from fence I built.

2 x 50 lb. Fast-Setting Concrete Mix

2 x 10 oz. Liquid Nails Heavy-Duty Adhesive

Walls and Rafters:

All the walls, rafters and the doors are built using 2×4. You will need quite a few of these. My shed I used 24 in. on center spacing for walls studs instead 16 in. on center spacing since shed is very small so it would not need extra wall studs.

40 x (2 in. x 4 in. x 92-5/8 in.) Prime White wood Studs

Roof:

1 x Roll of #15 Felt Roof Deck Protection

3 x Bundle 3-Tab Shingles

4 x (7/16 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.) OSB TechShield Radiant Barrier

2 x 4 ft. Long Roof Ridge Exhaust Vent

4 x 10 ft. Galvanized Roof Edge Flashing

Siding & Trim:

7 x (48 in. x 96 in.) Composite Panel Siding

15 x (3/4 in. x 2 in. x 8 ft.) Pre-Primed Composite Reversible Trim

4 x (3/4 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft.) Pre-Primed Composite Reversible Trim

1 x 10 oz. tube of Exterior Caulk

Step 3: Foundation

Picture of Foundation

I cut two 2×6 at 6 ft. for shorter sides and for long sides got two uncut 8 ft. 2×6. Then I made rectangle box using 3 1/3 screws and placed to desired location. I then dug six 1 ft. deep post holes and used various left-over 4×4 for the posts.

One I was happy with location of all posts. I used Fast-Setting Concrete Mix to secure posts. For fast setting concrete, you just pour in the post hole and add water. It only takes 30-40 minutes to make concrete hard as rock.

To ensure shed floor is level I used 4 ft. level and raised each corner until was perfectly level on all sides. Then used 3 1/2 in. Screws to secure it to posts and cut the tops to be flush with top of the 2×6’s.

Next I installed 3 cross support 6 ft. long beams spaced at 24 in. on center and used left-over pieces to add strength to the floor by adding smaller cross support pieces.

For the floor, I cut each plywood sheet to 4×6 ft. long and used liquid nails and 2 1/2 in. Exterior screws every 12 inches to secure to the foundation.

Step 4: Build Roof Trusses

Picture of Build Roof Trusses

To build roof support, I opted to use lower pitch roof since shed is small, and we do not have any snow here in Texas. There are a lot of great videos on YouTube on how to build roof trusses. I choose to build 4/12 roof pitch (or slope). This means that the roof rises 4 inches for every 12 inches inward towards the peak (or ridge). I built trusses on the shed floor prior to putting up walls. Basically, you build first one then use 2 1/2 in. screws or nails to secure the peak with left-over plywood.

Once initial one is made you secure it with left-over blocks and build others just like first one. My shed will have them spaced at 24 in. on center so I would need 5 trusses.

Step 5: Walls

Picture of Walls

To build walls you will need 4 2×4 at 8 feet long for two sides, and you will cut others down to desired size. For walls height, I wanted studs to be 6 ft. tall, so I started by cutting 2×4 @ 6 ft. I needed 18 studs cut at 6 ft. for all four walls. Afterwards I assembled first long wall with two 8 ft. studs for top and bottom next spaced each 6 ft. stud at 24 in. on center. So for longer 8 ft. wall you will need five 6 ft. studs and 4 for each smaller wall.

Build two longer walls then do same for smaller back wall, which will also have studs at 24 in. on center.

Raise the walls:
Since I was doing all work by myself, I used old 2×4 to hold the walls up while I secure them to each other. As you see below I built front door opening at 3 ft. wide and built header by using two 2×4 sandwiched with the piece of osb in between to make it as thick as 2×4 stud.

Basically stand up all four walls and use 2×4 just to hold them up.

Next we use 4 ft. level to ensure walls are level vertically and secure each wall to one another and floor with 3 1/2 in. screws. Additionally, add 2×4 on the top for top plate.

Top plate secures wall to each other and creates a level surface for roof trusses.

Step 6: Roof Support

Picture of Roof Support

Started to add roof trusses, and I used spare piece of 2×4 just to hold first end truss in place temporary.

Placed all 5 trusses at approximate 24 in. on center just like wall studs

Then secured each one with two 3 1/2 inch screws at each side at 24 in. on center to the top of the walls (top plate).

After used another 8 ft. 2×4 for the end of truss and secured with 3 1/2 inch screws.

Added another 8 ft. 2×4 on other side of roof truss.

Step 7: Roof Panels

Picture of Roof Panels

Because each side of a roof is not 4 ft. wide, I had to cut each roof panel long ways to make it fit. In addition, my roof will have a ridge went so 1 in. Opening will be left on a top on each side. Roof panels were cut at 44 1/2 in. Wide and left them 8 ft long. Then I used screws to secure it to the roof trusses. This also helps you square the roof trusses.

Then same will be done on the opposite side on the roof.

Then we will put the felt paper on the roof. To better insulate and protect from rain, I also used same felt paper and wrapped the shed

Step 8: Siding

Picture of Siding

I jumped the gun and did not take pictures of adding composite panel siding and roof trim. Basically, you take your 4×8 ft. siding panels and place next to building and cut extra from top with same pitch as your roof. For door, I left opening 1 inch bigger on siding for the double doors. I nailed the panel where studs are with 2 1/2 nails every 6 inches.

Side panels are the same and easier you just cut them how long you want them ( mine was 81 inches long) and then nail with 2 1/2 inch nails at 24 in. on center. I spaced nails every 6 inches

Step 9: Doors

Picture of Doors

I did not cover how you shingle the roof since there are tons of great videos on You Tube on this. For the entrance, I wanted to have double doors instead one large door. Then I used sandwich method where you use 2×4 in the middle for the frame then you add OSB for the back and siding for the front. It’s all secured with screws.

Then we use 2 in. Trim around the door frame and on the doors to make them look better. Additionally, attached 6 in. Door hinges.

Then added basic door latches on the doors

Step 10: Ramp

Picture of Ramp

This is optional but since I wanted to use this shed primarily for my riding mower. I needed to add ramp.

Ramp was put together using spare 2×6 and screwed together using 2 1/2 in. screws.

Ramp is as wide as the door opening and I had to dig in to the ground a bit to make it fit better and make it level.

Step 11: Caulk and Paint

Picture of Caulk and Paint

Almost there. I used caulk to cover all the panel over laps along with nails on the trim and panels.

Final steps is painting. I used greenish exterior behr paint and painted trim with darker green.

Thank you for checking out my project. To see more of my work visit Darko.us

Comments

Ericschofield (author)2016-12-15

Did you block between the roof rafters at the top plate to keep birds out? or put vented soffit panels up?

psandoz (author)2016-07-01

Thanks for the detail plans. I live in Texas as well and think this is just what I need to keep some yard stuff. Do you have an estimate of costs for materials?

Darko K (author)psandoz2016-07-19

Around $600. Most expensive are siding panels.

james doyle (author)2016-06-05

nice job

so'brien10 (author)2016-06-05

Thanks for a detailed Instructable. I've been wanting to build a shed for my mower but wasn't finding any plans that I like. I almost broke down and bought one of those Tupperware ones until I came across yours.

BeachsideHank (author)2016-06-05

It would have been desirable to lay out plastic sheet as a moisture barrier before putting down your plywood floor, but I suspect you project will still work fine for you anyway, nice build.

Darko K (author)BeachsideHank2016-06-05

Since I used pressure treated plywood, I think it should be fine.

BeachsideHank (author)Darko K2016-06-05

Not wanting to be argumentative here, but even under a concrete slab heavy mil plastic is used, but i suspect you're correct, it isn't a structure for the ages after all. Again, nice project. ☺

gm280 (author)2016-06-05

Nice built and good looking as well. My only concern is how you attached the floor to the six 4 x 4 posts. The only thing holding the entire building up is the few screws you used to screw into the posts. The usual manner is to set the floor on top of the posts, or either rabbit cut the posts to both support the weight of the building and allow screws to be driven into the sides as well. Another option would have been to use lag bolts all the way through the post and floor plates. That way the weight of the building is supported by the posts and not just the screws. But other then that, you did good.

Darko K (author)gm2802016-06-05

Proper concern. However whole building is on top of plywood floor which sits on top of the posts. So technically whole building is on top of the psots. In addition there are 24 3 /12 in.exterior grade screws ( 4 per post).

ClenseYourPallet (author)2016-06-05

Great looking storage shed. Clear in instructions and great pics. Thanks for sharing your great project

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