Step 1: The Old Power Supply Configuration
The power supply tester (Bottom Left) is how I booted the power supply, all I had to do was turn on the switch on the back of the power supply. Since I don't use this tester for anything else, it will be used in this project. If you don't have one, then there are Instructables on this website that can teach you how to Modify the power supply to turn on/off without one of these devices. For the sake of keeping things short as possible, I won't go into details on that process.
The Box with the binding posts on it is how I used the power from the power supply (via Molex conenector) It has nothing to do with this project.
Step 2: Gather Your Materials
- Screwdriver (and matching screws) (for mounting the panel to your shelf)
- Dremel with drill bit kit (recommended) (drill can be uses as a substitute)
- Wire Cutters
- Wire Crimpers
- Soldering Iron and Solder
- Box cutter or other sharp blade
- Pencil and Eraser
- Molex pin remover (Can be found in some car stereo or computer shops)
- Panel Material (I used the original 'backboard' from my desk that I never bothered to install. The material was very easy to manage).
- Banana Jack Compatible Binding Posts (Rather than buying these separately, I bought them with 'wall mounts/panels' and then removed the panels; this was a lot more cost effective)
- The Power Supply (Ideally a 300-350 Watt ATX should work for this project)
- Power Supply Tester (for booting up the Power Supply)
- Fan (80mm is recommended - I used a 60mm with a 80mm funnel adapter; I'll explain why later in this tutorial)
- An LED (color is up to your preference; I personally used green)
- A 470 Ohm Resistor (Recommend 1/2 W)
- A Power Switch (SPST should work fine) (Cover is optional)
- Hookup Wire (I used some old wires I got out of a broken ATX Power Supply)
- Electrical Tape
- Labels (Either using Label Paper or you can use regular paper / scotch tape)
- Banana Jack Plugs
- D-Sub Pins (these pins are used in Parallel / Serial cables)
Step 3: Preparing the Panel (Part 1)
Once you've selected and cut your panel to the preferred size, begin to make your measurements of where you will place your components. (I'm not going to give the measurements that I used only because some people may have different sized workstations or desks)
Step 4: Preparing the Panel (Part 2)
Again, I need to stress: If you are using the same panel material as this Instructable, then I recommend starting with guide holes on the back and the actual sized holes on the front. You'll see why when we get to Step 6.
Step 5: Inserting the Binding Posts and Other Components
Do the same with you power switch. Insert it in the hole you drilled and fasten it with a nut / washer.
For the power LED, just place it in the hole you drilled. I would then recommend using hot glue to keep it in place, or it might fall out easily.
Step 6: Installing the Fan
The fuzz you see around the holes is virtually impossible to remove using this material, and when I tried to install a 80mm fan, the fuzz interfered with the fan blades.
My work-around for this was to use a smaller fan, combined with a Funnel Adapter.
Make sure that when you're installing your fan you install it so the airflow is pulling air from outside of the panel to cool the components inside the compartment / shelf you install the Panel into.
Install this into the back of your panel.
Step 7: Final Inspection of Panel Components.
Step 8: Preparing the Molex Connectors
See the pictures below for details on what I explained above.
You will need to wire sets as shown below (totals 4 molex connectors)
Step 9: Wiring the Molex Pins to the Binding Posts.
There are 16 binding posts all together. The first column should be 12V, the second should be Ground (GND), the third should be 5V, and the fourth should be Ground (GND) again.
Just remember, the red molex wires carry 5V; The yellow wires carries 12V, and the black wires carry Ground signal.
I've included the binding post diagram again for quick reference.
Step 10: Installing the Power Switch
You'll need to cut the green wire on the motherboard connector cable bundle (There's only one green wire in a power supply anyway, so it should be easy to find). After cutting the wire I would recommend increasing the length of the green wires so you can reach the switch on the panel. Do this by stripping about 1/4 inch off the green wires, and then soldering extra hookup wire to the ends of the green wire.
After your green wire is of desirable length, solder the ends of the green wire to the contacts of your power switch.
(Also, at this time, if you haven't actually connected the Power Supply Tester to the Large Connector, now would be a good time to do this, as we'll be installing the unit after the next couple steps.
Step 11: Wiring the Fan
Now for the fan. If your fan has three wires, then you'll need to keep the red and black wires intact. The yellow wire on the fan (Third Wire) needs to go, so cut it off completely. Also the fan connector needs to be removed as well, so cut it off as close to the head so your Red/Black fan wires are of good size. Strip about 1/2 inch off the ends of the red and black fan wires. Be careful doing this as the fan wire are thinner and more delicate.
Once you've prepared the wires, solder the black floppy wire to the black fan wire; then solder the yellow floppy wire to the red fan wire. After soldering, make sure you wrap the wires in electrical tape or shrink wrap.
(I know the diagram below doesn't show the fan attached to the panel; it's supposed to be by this step. I designed the diagram like that to better illustrate the wiring more than anything. I'll be using the same illustration technique for the LED in the next step).
Step 12: Wiring the LED
On the LED, made sure no to confuse the anode and cathode. The Anode is the Positive leg (Longer) and the Cathode is the negative leg (Shorter).
Solder a 470 ohm resistor to the end of the Cathode.
Solder the red wire to the anode.
Solder the black wire to the other end of the resistor.
Make sure to wrap your exposed wires with electrical tape or shrink wrap.
Step 13: Installing the Panel in the Shelf
Once everything is in good working order, put the power supply into the shelf and then cover the shelf with the panel itself. While holding the shelf in place, drill some guide holes through the panel/shelf and begin to fasten the panel into the shelf with some screws.
Step 14: Final Touch
After that you're all done.
This unit is perfect for anyone who needs to test their breadboard wire-ups or any other circuit.
I'll be releasing some more instructables soon for add-on features to this project.