Print PDF
Favorite
Email
I wanted to replace my closet doors with something that fits more closely with the furniture I build and the renovations I've been doing on my house. I've always hated bypass doors on closets - they make a closet seem dark and cramped, they're a pain to use, and it always seems that what you want to get to is on the side where the doors currently are - so there's lots of sliding, fumbling, cussing, etc, etc. I wanted some closet doors that were light, airy, and allowed full-access to the whole closet at one time - so I settled on bi-fold doors. Now, I know what you're saying "Bi-fold doors!? Are you kidding?" - to which I'd say, "Read on" - but first some disclaimers:
Because each installation is fairly unique (your closets aren't going to be exactly the same size as mine) I won't be giving a detailed set of plans. I'm assuming (dangerous, I know) that you have some modicum of woodworking skill before tackling a project like this. Although it IS a fairly simple project, it does require some precision.
You do not need to have a shop full of tools to build something like this, however, you will need to make up for whatever tools you lack (like a jointer and planer) with outstanding hand-tool skills, or, a trip to a cabinet shop where they can dimension the lumber for you.
For those who are familiar with traditional Shoji design, construction, and installation, you will see that I used a lot of ... uh... "alternate methods" which work - but aren't exactly "traditional" - I hope the Shoji Gods forgive me :) I recommend Jay Van Arsdale's book "Shoji: How to Design, Build, and Install Japanese Screens" to anyone interested in traditional construction and installation.
Finally, the project cost about $400 total - that's for the wood, shoji paper, finishing materials, and quality hardware - not exactly cheap, but also nowhere near what these would cost if you had them made.
Because each installation is fairly unique (your closets aren't going to be exactly the same size as mine) I won't be giving a detailed set of plans. I'm assuming (dangerous, I know) that you have some modicum of woodworking skill before tackling a project like this. Although it IS a fairly simple project, it does require some precision.
You do not need to have a shop full of tools to build something like this, however, you will need to make up for whatever tools you lack (like a jointer and planer) with outstanding hand-tool skills, or, a trip to a cabinet shop where they can dimension the lumber for you.
For those who are familiar with traditional Shoji design, construction, and installation, you will see that I used a lot of ... uh... "alternate methods" which work - but aren't exactly "traditional" - I hope the Shoji Gods forgive me :) I recommend Jay Van Arsdale's book "Shoji: How to Design, Build, and Install Japanese Screens" to anyone interested in traditional construction and installation.
Finally, the project cost about $400 total - that's for the wood, shoji paper, finishing materials, and quality hardware - not exactly cheap, but also nowhere near what these would cost if you had them made.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1What I started with... yummy
It all began when I started to renovate my master bedroom. I know, I know - who would want to get rid of these beauties!? Vinyl-covered press-board was all the rage in tract homes in the 70's.....
These doors were pretty beat up and bowed, and they were definitely hard to live with. I salvaged the press-board to make router templates and the aluminum and steel in the frames to keep on hand for reinforcements on other projects. Yes, I'm a packrat.
These doors were pretty beat up and bowed, and they were definitely hard to live with. I salvaged the press-board to make router templates and the aluminum and steel in the frames to keep on hand for reinforcements on other projects. Yes, I'm a packrat.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
You'd probably want to make your frames around half as thick - maybe a little thicker depending on how you plan to install them (fixed screens could be thinner than a panel that was going to be manipulated).
Good luck :)
it its going to be a by-pass door, tracks on the top and bottom.
The other questions that come to mind are in regards to indexing the panels to each other and installation issues caused by potential inaccuracies in the existing door frame opening:
In regards to indexing, multiple bypass doors usually have a "tab" system that allows one door to "grab" another as it passes and bring it along - like a telescoping antenna - otherwise opening and closing that many panels and keeping them aligned not only side-to side but also front to back becomes kind of a pain in the butt. You may want to research those systems and see about integrating them into your design. There is also the possibility of putting "stops" in the tracks to help position the doors - but that would limit you to opening in one direction. Lots to think about, anyway.
Before you get too far in your design, you may want to check that your door opening is square and plumb - and if it's not, you might want to consider building a dedicated frame and install your doors like you would a typical residential interior door - i.e. shim it into place and cover the gap with trim. Since you're installing a set of doors who's smooth function is going to be dependent on their tracks being parallel and square top to bottom - a dedicated shop-built frame seems like the way to go since getting something that requires a good amount of precision to "fit" into the typical sloppy closet door opening can really be a torturous experience. Since your doors are going to be tracked at the top and bottom, also be sure to check that the distance from the floor to the top of the opening is consistent across the width of the door - it's more common to have variances that one might think (one more good reason to build a dedicated frame).
Good luck! Sounds like a great project - I hope you create an instructable to show off your results! If by some chance I misunderstood what you were asking for, just let me know and I'll post another response. :)
So I guess my question based on your excellent response is that the doors need to be 1" thick? I am I correct in thinking this? How much thicker on the bottom track do I need go?
I went to http://johnsonhardware.com/sdindex.htm for the 4 door sliding by pass hardware. Any thoughts on weight constraints of each door? Would the 300lb set be overkill?
Let me know your thoughts. Thanks again for getting back to me!
Now that I know that, however, I am curious as to why you are going to use a lower track as well? That may cause problems getting the doors in and out of their upper tracks, and I think it adds complexity that may not be necessary - unless you have a specific purpose that I'm missing. Traditional Shoji will use a lower track, but they tend to use a "tab and slot" kind of tracking system at the top - they're not mechanically attached - so they need that extra control. If you're using rolling hardware, the standard floor guides should work just fine and save you the trouble of letting a track system into your floor (IMO, of course).
The 300 LB set would *definitely* be overkill - I'd be shocked if your door panels weighed 20 LBS apiece when completed (assuming you're using Shoji paper) - so definitely don't spend the extra money. The model I'd be looking at for your application would be the 111SD both for it's flexibility in door thickness (because of a split rail system) and it's 150lb weight capacity.
Door thickness can be what you would choose - you can use my design specifications as a guide - or go thicker or thinner (down to 3/4" if you use the 111SD hardware). Since your application will only be 2 doors deep instead of the 4 doors that my original post assumed, you can definitely go thicker than 1". Just off the top of my head, I'd say a thickness of 1-1/4" to 1-3/8" would be the range I'd consider - but realize that too thick is going to look kind of "clunky". Also, it's a good idea to have the actual hardware in hand before you commit to any design - know how your hardware will be installed and know the required clearances so that you don't have to hack part of a door off later (yes, it's happened to me). It's very easy to make your doors just a *little* too tall - so know the manufacturer's suggested dimensions and your installation dimensions and how they will affect you before you design and build your doors. As we used to say when I was a machine designer - "A minute on the drawing table saves an hour in the shop" ;)
Another question I have is that the opening is just a tad over the 96" length would guess to say 97". I am also putting face molding on the ends where the doors meet, so to hide the joists better. Would that be a problem for sliding if the length of opening is slightly larger than the hardware?
2. the only thing i might want to see in my sick mind is some music oriented dancing led's
3. again awesome job.
Actually, this brings up a good point: This design would lend itself to using a broad range of background materials - anything from wood to metal to painted panels or panels with wallpaper - whatever - as long as it's thin enough to allow the hardware to operate. I chose Shoji paper for it's translucency and subtle beauty - but then again, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, right? ;)
DADDY I WANT SHOJI DOORS INSTEAD OF BORING DOORS!
Awesome instructable. Should be able to give this to dad and tell him what I want :DD