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Step 4: Time to make the Handle

Install a spindle about 4" thick round it up sand it part off about 4" worth or length.
Drill an undersized hole in the end for the rod to tap into.
Then drill a 1" hole through the side for the sliding handle.
you can use a file, but I used a grinder to cut a slight taper on the end of the rod and then made 3 grooves going vertical about 1.5"  in.
Now put a nice blob of epoxy in the hole and screw the rod into the handle. let it sit overnight. (note that it is IMPERATIVE that you screw it in straight).
Another question.. Did you do anything to hold the underside carriage together to prevent side to side racking later down the road? <br>I'm considering the same thing except for building the carriage part as one piece. I guess at some point soon I'll get busy and put one together. <br>I have a steel face vise that works just fine and the carriage is one piece with two separate holes for the guide bars to prevent racking. http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q490/atheola/20170206_094639.jpg<br>The reason I ask is because I made one some time back and it worked at first, but over time began to hang up and became useless. <br>Now I really want (and need) a separate shoulder vise or whatever you want to call it and I have to face the fact that I'm cheap when it comes to paying out bucks for things I can build myself. ;)
Looks great, just what I need for my new bench. When you unscrew the handle does the face move out by itself? Did you add something for that? In my sketch it looks like the screw and handle would move out by themselves. Thanks!
Perhaps try cutting a slot in the sides of the rod to add an e-clip to hold the chop..
Many bench vises use the same method. Be sure to counter sink an area on the back end though or the e-clip will catch on your work..
This is really nice, but a few questions..Any problems with racking so far? <br>Well one question actually..<br>I found a company that sells acme threaded rod and nuts to match. http://www.dependableacme.com/ and they do sell to the public.. Prices aren't that outrageous..
good idea. think I'll give this a try.
Great job!<br> <br> BTW acme thread just means the thread profile is trapezoidal. It is used for other things than vises.<br> <br> I found an old rotted out vise in my old cellar and rebuilt the wooden parts of it. I took the basic design of it and modified it slightly. I used something called a hidden dovetail in order to hold my guide bars.<br> <br> Here are some pictures (though the dovetail is unfortunately hidden)<br> <br> <a href="http://i.imgur.com/sbC05.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i.imgur.com/sbC05.jpg</a><br> <br> <a href="http://i.imgur.com/Bo24q.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i.imgur.com/Bo24q.jpg</a><br> <br> The hole was a bit tight so never mind the threads in the wood. There is a nut in the back<br> <a href="http://i.imgur.com/jUKci.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i.imgur.com/jUKci.jpg</a><br> <br> <a href="http://i.imgur.com/YZITK.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i.imgur.com/YZITK.jpg</a><br> <br>
<p>How much can a threaded rod like that cost? ($)</p>
<p>Threaded rod can get pretty pricey. You can find some in some old car jacks though. It depends what style jack what is inside of them. Nuts in jacks are never hexagonal. So it is a challenge to box them in. Acme taps are stupid expensive too. So tapping acme threads is not an economical option. I wrote an article about making an acme tap. </p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Acme-Tap/">https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Acme-Tap/</a></p><p>But it won't tap steel. Almost, but not quite. You'd be surprised how much force a plastic nut has. Enough for a wood vise.</p>
thanks fred <br>
<p>Hi, I've added your project to the <em style="">&quot;</em><em style="">Make Your Own Bench-Vise!</em><em style="">&quot;</em> Collection</p><p>This is the link If you are interested:</p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Your-Own-Bench-Vise/">https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Your-Own-Benc...</a></p>
Nice plan.<br>I was wondering what the function of the front rod support is, since the rear jaw supports the rods just a couple of inches in front of it.
it closes the back of the nut case.
Thanks, that makes sense.<br> I've sketched up your design (helps me work out how designs work). If it helps anyone feel free to use it: <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/youngerdrafting/archive/VISE.pdf?attredirects=0&d=1" rel="nofollow">It's in PDF form</a>.
hey like the sketch...also like your site, I have an interest in drafting and plan on going to school for architecture.
Thanks. In retrospect I probably should have done architecture or engineering, I would have used it more than the Biology degrees I got instead. Fortunately you can do architectural drafting in a lot of places without a licence (I've designed nearly 50 houses, probably a few more if you count the ones that we'e built). Fun profession, Good luck
thanks...i should be able to get free tuition at the university my father works at and go to their school of architecture and get LEAD accreditation and all that so i should be well off.
Thanks. That looks great.
I've been thinking of one of these also, but was stuck on a few things. Great idea on the &quot;nut case&quot;!<br>Where did you get the ACME Screw and Nuts? How much did they cost? And How is it working so far?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#acme-threaded-rods/=fmxczp<br>
They got it all at a premium price! They seem very very expensive. Look locally and elsewhere on the web before you go here to purchase.. You can find it for half these prices easily.<br>
You can also look locally at an industrial machine supplier. or talk to a local machine shop about where to buy.<br>
it works great. <br>I had the acme thread on hand. google it you will find a supplier.<br>

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