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  On going work on a red beaded show girl outfit for a photo shoot, is taking me forever.To the point I really wish I hadn’t started it.
 It's been over a course of two months now of sewing beads and sequins on.

The bra alone would have taken a solid two weeks of working on it if I hadnt got so bored with it,it was the under cup where I have added a string of bugle/tube beads to the center of each sequin that covered the area, that was nearly the undoing of it all and me chucking it in the recycle crate and calling it quits on the whole outfit.

Looking back now I should have sewen a strand every other sequin for the under cup, it would have looked the same and not weighed so much in the end .

I have found It's easier to take a red bra and thong of the same colour/shade to use as a base to work on, than to have to make them from scratch as it saves a whole lot of time.

  The added pieces for the neck, arm and sash pieces are strips of red satin fabric cut and sewn to shape with added hooks, eyes and snaps for fit.

Step 1: Supplies

Things you will need

· Red bra
· Red thong
· popper snaps
· hooks and eyes
· Red cotton thread
· Thin long needle
· Small embroidery scissors
· Big bag of red sequins
· 150grams of red glass tube beads
· 100grams of small round red glass
· 2meters x 1cm red ribbon (for adding fringing to)
· 1m red satin fabric

 

Step 2: Adding Sequins With Beads

Adding sequins with beads: It is quite simple as threading one on and adding a small bead in the centre to hold it in place. Add a couple of 1000 more and you have a part of an outfit.

Step 3: Making Beaded Fringe:

Easier if you can find what you that matches your intended outfit in a shop, but if you have to make beaded fringe from scratch an item? It is some what easier to do if you sew strings of beads on to the edge of a piece of ribbon and then sew it to the item.

 First cut the length of ribbon you need to fringe the item and leave a bit extra to fold in to make a smart edge. Then mark the length with a ruler and put small dots with a light coloured marker pen along the edge of one side of the ribbon, these are to be the points where you are to add the strands of beads, so you know in the end the beaded strands will finish evenly (or you can adjust to fit before you start).

Step 4: Neck Piece

Cut a length of fabric twice the width you want, plus seam allowance so that half can be beaded and the other half can be folded over to cover the stitching at the end for a neat finish. And the length the circumference of your neck plus at least 3cm as an over lap for the fastener.
  The fringing is added straight to the sequined band after it has been beaded, so its easier to use the spacing of the sequins as markers for the fringing strand positions. Working (minus the 3cm overlap on one side) from the centre out to each side. Start with adding a string of beads your desired longest length by adding the beads and using the last as the end stop bead and sewing back up through the string and sewing it off at the top.
  Adding a string of beads each side to the centre one, in this case half a sequin spaced apart and detract one or two beads as you work outward, so they decrease in length till you get half way before the end of the neck piece so the strand will finish at the shoulder line.



Step 5: The Bra

If you cut around the internal edge, ¾ of the way around the lining fabric before you start beading and tack it back out of the way while you sequin and bead the other side.You can then sew the lining back in place when you have finished.This creates a smooth lining and looks smarter if it is being taken off as part of an act and is also smoother for comfort of fit.

Step 6: The Beading of the T String

A bit more tricky to bead as they are normaly made of strechy fabric so it is easier to bead if you stretch it over an embroidery hoop, as you might need to allow for the beading to be stretched on the fabric when worn. Two hooks and eyes or skirt fasteners at the sides help with this also and with taking it off, if worn over a G string for a performance or act.

Step 7: Tassles

Tassles can be easily beaded in the same way as above for decoration.
Either straight on to the tassle or onto a strip of fabric and wound, sewn into place around the top part of the tassle.

Step 8: Finished Outfit



 
<p>Excellent Job. I was curious about the back feathers they use like a huge fan attached to the the body and the head gear. But you have given me a excellent start.</p>
That is beautiful! I am in awe or all the time and work that has gone into the stunning garment!
Wow, that's dedication. Back when I was younger (and thinner) I&nbsp;made a few costumes for Rocky Horror that involved hand-sewing a bunch of sequins, and it sucked. I can't even imagine putting tiny beads in the center of each one. I think I&nbsp;might have been driven to put out my own eyes with a beading needle.<br /> Anyway, kudos to you for persevering, and for not putting out your eyes with a beading needle. It's very lovely work.
my eyes are crossing just thinking about having to pick up all those beads. Its a very pretty outfit
Nah, put the beads in a bowl and scoop the needle through them, lots easier and a little less eyestrain.&nbsp; There still is all that sewing, and too odd a shape for a sewing machine?
&nbsp;I love it! &nbsp;I'll make mine in blue! &nbsp;(joking)<br /> <br /> You do sound a little depressed about your project though. &nbsp;Maybe sound a little.... happier?<br />
&nbsp;Dont know though, a small blue&nbsp;showgirl outfit Ohh ahh la Kylie could go down a storm on office casual day?<br /> Mumm,was actualy a bit depressed about it in the middle of the project as I&nbsp;didnt relize myself how long it was going to take, just didnt want people to think it was a quick fix and make do to get it done this way. <br /> So&nbsp;more as a warning ?&nbsp;'This project a&nbsp;gives you eye strain and hand ache' type of thing :)<br /> But thank you for the comment&nbsp;.<br />
&nbsp;Very lovely result~

About This Instructable

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Bio: A promotional, body, nyotaimori, retro and pin-up model, along with my other event production work in London.
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