Simple 12v Compact Fluorescent Tube Ballast/inverter Only Eight Components! Updated!





Introduction: Simple 12v Compact Fluorescent Tube Ballast/inverter Only Eight Components! Updated!

This is an inverter that can drive any 8 to 25watt compact fluorescent tube with a 11to 15v input.
It consists of a ferrite core,tip3055 transistor,two resistors,two capacitors.
i use tubes out of old energy savers.

Step 1: Parts Required

You will need:

tip3055 transistor

180R resister(1w)

47R resistor (1w)

16v 100uf capacitor (electrolytic)

100n green cap (brown inductively wound will work)

toroid ferrite core (4-5cm x1cm)
heat sink (essential)

3 meter 0.7mm winding wire(0.6-0.8)
5 meter 0.5mm winding wire
old energy saver bulb.
power supply/battery of your choice.

Step 2: Modify Old Energy Saver Lamp.

you will find that there is a join on the plastic bit.
You need to separate the two halves and look inside.
you will see 4 wires in between the ballast and the tube.

Step 3: Back to the Inverter

now you need to wind the coil as shown.
all windings must be wound in the same direction and correct
wire sizes.
first wind the secondary coil with 90 turns of 0.5mm wire tap it then another 35turns(once every time it goes through the hole)
then wind 35 turns of 0.7 mm wire for the primary.
and 14 turns of 0.5mm wire on top of the primary to make the feedback.
leave 2.5cm of wire at the start and finish of each winding.

Step 4: Create a Pcb to Mount It On.

use this diagram to make the PCB to put it all on
but watch out because the jump wires may be confusing!
now find the lamp you put aside and connect the base terminals
to the output wires and test it and then you are finished!



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    I made it its working thanks

    i made it but it isn't work.

    this is a super instructables!

    i will definitely try to make one! :)

    I've built this circuit and there is a better way of heating the filaments. when you have wound the secondary, twist a center tap and then put on another 35 turns. put the start of the winding to one filament of the tube, the center tap to one end of the other filament and the end of the winding to the other end of the filament. You no longer need the switch start because this will start the tube reliably and automatically. This works because I have tried it.
    And don't forget, never run without a tube because it burns out the transistor in seconds!

    Hi jonathanmlang .
    Could you post your schema here ??? for people easy to see and to learn. Thank you

    Well since its been such a while ago since I posted that comment I have made some massive improvements to this inverter. If you decide to make it wind the primary starting from the bottom to top then again after the center tap. This one will start the lamp softly and looks like a professional rapid-start during starting.

    perfect fluorescent inverter v2.png

    Hi Jonathanmlang,
    In the attached circuit diagram, I have some queries :
    - I see a ground just below the lamp, where is this coming from.
    -I see a tap in the 400 tuns in L4, how many turns is this tap.
    - what is "A " mentioned in the circuit diagram.

    Thanks for your feed back- cheers

    The two 'A's are connected together. Just thought it would be clearer than having a wire around the whole circuit. The ground should just connect to the negative supply cable. It helps to start the tube more reliably. The reason I did them separate in the diagram is to keep it tidy. The positive terminals also go together


    Dear Jonathanmlang.
    First thank you so much for your time to post your diagram schema ,But unfortunatery the picture is too blearing,not clear to see.Could you re-post an other..
    Kind regards

    I uploaded the image much larger than the one above but instructables shrunk it down! I have made an instructable of how to make this inverter so you can see it better.