Simple 12v compact fluorescent tube ballast/inverter only eight components! updated!

This is an inverter that can drive any 8 to 25watt compact fluorescent tube with a 11to 15v input.
It consists of a ferrite core,tip3055 transistor,two resistors,two capacitors.
i use tubes out of old energy savers.

Step 1 Parts required

You will need:

tip3055 transistor

180R resister(1w)

47R resistor (1w)

16v 100uf capacitor (electrolytic)

100n green cap (brown inductively wound will work)

toroid ferrite core (4-5cm x1cm)
heat sink (essential)

3 meter 0.7mm winding wire(0.6-0.8)
5 meter 0.5mm winding wire
old energy saver bulb.
.
power supply/battery of your choice.

Comments

[robi_ncc]

Can I use a non-polarized capacitor in between fluorescent tubes two loops like the circuit diagram in my comment?

And can I use 40W fluorescent tube in this circuit?

And as the power source is 12v battery so, if the battery discharge around 10.8v then the fluorescent tube's brightness well dimmer then how long did fluorescent tube will light brightly. Because I use two compact
fluorescent tubes before and both of them did not light brightly even battery full charge.

And sorry for editing your circuit diagram.

[jonathanmlang]

I've built this circuit and there is a better way of heating the filaments. when you have wound the secondary, twist a center tap and then put on another 35 turns. put the start of the winding to one filament of the tube, the center tap to one end of the other filament and the end of the winding to the other end of the filament. You no longer need the switch start because this will start the tube reliably and automatically. This works because I have tried it.

And don't forget, never run without a tube because it burns out the transistor in seconds!

[lam]

Hi jonathanmlang .
Could you post your schema here ??? for people easy to see and to learn. Thank you

[jonathanmlang]

Well since its been such a while ago since I posted that comment I have made some massive improvements to this inverter. If you decide to make it wind the primary starting from the bottom to top then again after the center tap. This one will start the lamp softly and looks like a professional rapid-start during starting.

[lam]

Dear Jonathanmlang.
First thank you so much for your time to post your diagram schema ,But unfortunatery the picture is too blearing,not clear to see.Could you re-post an other..
Kind regards

[jonathanmlang]

I uploaded the image much larger than the one above but instructables shrunk it down! I have made an instructable of how to make this inverter so you can see it better.

[lam]

Thank you so much Jonathanmlang.
Kind regads

[red eyes]

make this diagram easier

[flying pie]

i want to make it smaller in size so i can put it in the case of the old cfl and is there a way to make it for  a 38w  cfl

[junits15]

i think you mean 108 Ohms and 47 Ohms

[chub2]

We don't get the winding wires in our place so I will have to get the wires from old transformers. so it will be difficult to know the diameter of the wires.

will it be ok to use any type of winding wires without knowing the diameter?

Thanks
Chuba

[junits15]

as long as they are close (within 4-5 AWG) it "should"  work, theoreticly, the thickness itsnt terribly important as long as the rest of the circuit is correct.  were do you live, that you cant get magnet wire?  

[junits15]

i have two transistors, a 3055 and a 2n3055, the 2n3055 is huge (100+ watts) the regular 3055 is about 65 watts.  will either of them work or just the regular one?

[jiraya-sama]

Hi, i'm italian, sorry for my bad english, i have buy a 8 W 56 Volt 0.145 A actinic neon, how i can modify this circuit for this neon??? Thanks

[12V]

need more info:
electrode type   hot cathode / cold cathode (usually cold for neon)
strike voltage              1,000+for most neons but 56v sounds low for ionized voltage (maybe only a short  tube if so strike could be as low as 200v) 
length           if you don't know strike voltage
supply      6--24v  what is best for you?  

[VadimS]

Um the output is ac not dc therefore the wear would be even.

[12V]

each one is slightly different because of shape of core and size and wire usually the positive voltage has a higher peak than the negative.

[mattccc]

is this baised on a flyback transformer driver?

[12V]

not really but it could be used as one if connected properly it is a goodidea to change the polarity of the lame every so often as only one electrode is wearing out.(the output is dc that's why) i did not purposely make it dc but it is much less complex than an ac one.

[bilalinpk]

please post a clear diagram i shall be very thankful to you..

[12V]

is this easier to understand?

[12V]

watch out this is 12v and not 24!(the diagram might make you think it is 24)

[mgalyean]

Is that -12V supposed to 'ground'?
Otherwise it looks like it requires 24VDC to operate (+12-12=24).

Do you have any ballpark for efficiency? How warm does the circuit get? Too hot to touch? (the transistor and any resistors would be the key components to monitor). The hotter they run, the less efficient the circuit. Unless it is also considered a mini space heater.

Thanks for the ible, it will be useful renovating boats and campers.

[12V]

yes it is supposed to be grounded. it is 12v between +and -. produces about 35w (incandescent equivalent) of light. it is about (depending on tube and windings) 22w at 12v i accidentally connected it to 14.4v and it burned out so don't exceed 13.8v with a good heat sink . ratings: input 23w volt 11-13.8 amp 1.7-2.4 output volt starting 130v running 35+ power 7-8w efficiency 30% (28% more than equivalent incandescent including bulb)