Step 2: Turning Heads

The Neck

First dry fit the server horn in the neck and trim it as needed. The servo needs a base to stand on so we'll use some Mighty Putty (aka Epoxy Putty) to fill in the neck.

This stopper will serve as a base for the servo which turns the head. It must stick to one half of the body but not the other to allow the torso to be opened and closed freely. Use a little petroleum jelly on one half of the torso and the servo horn to prevent them from sticking.

Fill the neck with putty while focusing on how the torso comes apart. Allow the putty to cure for a minute or two to eliminate some of the tackiness. Then press the servo horn into the neck to create a firm footing for the servo.

Finally remove the servo and top half of the torso. Allow the putty to cure further while testing the fit a few times before it cures completely. The putty can be filed and sanded after it's hard but it's much easier to adjust it prior.

The Head

Now it's time to mount the servo to the head. The first thing we want to do is remove the scalp. Follow just under the hairline with a razor and remove it completely.

Take a moment to orient the horn so that it has an even range of motion in either direction while it's oriented perpendicularly to the face. Place the horn in it's footing and run the wire down the side of the putty. Turn the servo in the direct opposite the wire and make sure it has enough slack to turn completely. Mark the wire and the putty when you're happy with the positioning.

Make a groove in the putty with a saw so the servo wire can run down the neck and into the body while it's closed. Next put the servo in the head and feed the wire down through the groove. Close the torso and put the head back on. You should now have head on the body with the motor in the head and the wire running down the neck into a closed torso.

Adjust the head and servo so that they're lined up. Make sure there's an even amount of spacing between the servo and either side of the head. Take a measurement of this space and cut a length of 3/8" dowel. Dry fit the piece of dowel on either side of the head and re-cut if necessary. Cut another piece of dowel the same length once you're happy with the fit.

Now wedge the pieces of dowel on either side of the servo. Drop a small amount of hot glue on each side where the dowel meets the servo and allow it to dry. Remove the servo with the dowels sticking to it. The dowels should hinge on the small drop of hot glue while maintaining an accurate placement. Take advantage of this hinging effect to apply more glue between the servo and dowels before clamping them together to create a secure, tight fit.

The dowels should now be attached to the servo but not the head. I initially tried gluing the dowels to the head but the glue didn't stick. Drill a small pilot hole through either side of the dowel. Place the servo back into the head with the horn planted firmly in its footing and use two screws to fasten the dowels to the head. Remove the head from the body and disassemble the torso.
<p>the beauty of synchronicity never ceases to amaze me. </p><p>i have been planning to do exactly the same thing as a final for my Electronics as an Art Material class, except controlling the servos via twitter. </p><p>if you dont mind me asking, what type of servo did u use??</p>
<p>I'm new to electronics, but I attempted to simulate your project with 123D Circuits <a href="http://123d.circuits.io/circuits/725413-5-servos" rel="nofollow">here</a>. Any idea why the servos move so painfully slow? Also, you can probably tell I've never breadboarded before.</p>
<p>Hey, that's pretty cool. I've never used 123D though so I'm not sure why the servos move so slow, but at least it's working. :)</p>
wow thanks time to make a phys-co killer doll
I wan't to put one of those in my carry-on next time I fly<br>
I used a mix of servos that I had on hand. The first set are the smallest and cheapest but also perform well.<br><br>7g Sub-Micro Servos used in the arms:<br>http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dy-1002.html<br><br>T-Pro Mini Servo SG-90 9G Servos used in the legs:<br>http://www.hobbypartz.com/topromisesg9.html<br><br>Dynam 9g Servo used in the head:<br>http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dy-1007.html
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSy8Ko1vSKQ">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSy8Ko1vSKQ</a><br> <br> &quot;My name is Talking Tina and I'm going to kill you.&quot;<br>
LOL! too funny. And im going to bed..
This instructable represents my very worst nightmare.
Very cool! I expect I'll find a way to use this with my middle school students!<br>
Now just replace the eyes with two PIR sensors and let it track people, slooowly, with it's head.
Now you just have to hot glue a small knife to one of its hands... and your shrink will officially retire.<br><br>
Be careful when programming that robo-baby. DON'T make her self aware. She looks like she's sort of crazy. Nice work! My son loves robots, and wants us to make one. I had no idea where to start, so this is perfect.
Very good! But SOOOO CREEPY!!!!!
Thanks. Creepiness is a secondary goal so it may get worse. ;)
it may get worse...i thought this was as creepy as it got, please dont tell me your turning this into a carrot top baby that moves.
I happen to have a 3 channel remote laying around in the garage. .Halloween is ging to ROCK!!! ( I am probably gonna get in trouble. LOL
That shot in step 2 is just creepy...<br><br>Any plans to add servos to the hips as well?
It's way creepier in person. I had this thing lying on my desk with only a head and arms. It was running the simplest code where the head and limbs just go back and forth. It created this rocking motion that was so freaky I almost decided to stop the project o_O. I'll try to get a shot of that later. Btw, the hips are added in step 3 but I have yet to program them. Maybe I can get it crawling on all fours.
... saying <em>momma!</em>
Only that one? Not any of the other shots of a Franken-doll with buckshot-pattern holes in her chest?<br><br>This is pretty cool though...ahh, the ideas it gives for Halloween decorations!
Need to do this with a Chucky Doll. Epic project, kinda creepy... <br><br>If you want to listen to the phonograph disk inside, it might be playable on a variable speed record player.

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