After many hours of browsing Pinterest instead of paying attention in lecture, my guilt has finally caught up to me. In order to make up for lost productivity, I've decided to make an Instructable inspired by my Pinterest browsings.
Step 1: Materials and Cutting
Lumber Shopping List (Nominal):
- (QTY 2) 1" x 12" x 4' Poplar Board - Footing
- (QTY 2) 1" x 4" x 8' Poplar Board - Vertical Beam
- (QTY 2) 1" x 3" x 8' Poplar Board - Horizontal Beam
- (QTY 2) 1" x 2" x 8' Whitewood - Slat Support
- (QTY 8) 1" x 3" x 8' Whitewood - Slat
I used cheaper whitewood for the slat systems as it would not be visible in the final form. Pine and oak were also available in the same dimensions but I preferred the lighter grain of poplar.
Note: Dimensions are given in nominal sizes for ease of shopping, the actual sizes are smaller. I'm sorry; it wasn't my idea, I swear!
- Screws/Wood Glue
- Kreg Pocket Hole Mini Jig
Cut the Lumber List to the following dimensions (These are now actual sizes, bolded are the cuts)
- (QTY 2) 0.75" x 11.5" x 44" Poplar Board - Footing
- (QTY 2) 0.75" x 3.5" x 75" Poplar Board - Vertical Beam
- (QTY 2) 0.75" x 2.5" x 75" Poplar Board - Horizontal Beam
- (QTY 2) 0.75" x 1.5" x 75" Whitewood - Slat Support
- (QTY 16) 0.75" x 2.5" x 39" Whitewood - Slat
Step 2: Pocket Holes
Vertical Beam (2)
I spaced out six (6) pocket holes [perpendicular to the length] that will be used to connect the Vertical Beam to the Horizontal Beam. I made also made two (2) pocket holes on each end [parallel to the length] that will connect the beam to the Footings.
Horizontal Beam (2)
I made one (1) pocket hole on each end [parallel to the length] that will also connect the ends of the beam to the Footings.
Read Kreg Pocket Hole Specifications for jig spacing and drill bit spacing*
Step 3: Beam Fabrication
If you have Kreg's 90-degree corner clamps, this step will be a breeze. However, I was without Kreg's fancy clamps so I used spacers to clamp my pieces flush at 90 degrees.
I used 1-1/4" Kreg Pocket screws for all six (6) holes connecting the Vertical Beam to the Horizontal Beam. You may need an impact drill to completely close the gap between the two pieces.
The Slat Support beam will cover the six (6) holes of the Vertical Beam, so make sure you are content with the previous part before you proceed. I decided to glue and screw the Slat Support to the Vertical Beam for better load transference and greater shear resistance (Don't browse Pinterest in Mechanics of Materials, kids!)
Step 4: BONUS: Countersunk Holes!
I found that the Kreg Drill Bit can also be used to countersink screws. Just adjust the stop guide to the tip of the bit and tighten.
Wood does tend to accumulate between guide and the flutes so clean periodically. I used 1" screws to connect the Slat Support to the Vertical Beam.
Title/Header Alternative: "How to null your warranty. Maybe..."
Step 5: Assembly
Preferably it'd be best to assemble the bed upside-down on a flat surface. "Curse you, carpet!"
Remember: there are two (2) screws on the Vertical Beam and one (1) screw on the Horizontal Beam that are connecting the beam-assembly to the Footings. Twelve (12) screws total for all four corners.
Flip and move the bed with a friend
I evenly spaced the Slats along their support and topped it off with my mattress!
- For larger mattress sizes, I would include a third beam in the center (and maybe increase the height dimension of the three beams)
- I kept the Footings low to lessen the chance of buckling
- Corners are death to shins. Have yet to come up with an elegant solution.
- Now I need a headboard!