Simple Shortening Soap

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Introduction: Simple Shortening Soap

I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE IF YOU INJURE YOURSELF IN ANY WAY BY FOLLOWING THE ACTIONS IN THE TUTORIAL. YOUR RECOGNIZE BY WATCHING (OR READING) IT THAT YOU TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOURSELF AND THAT I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS.

This is my "Rebatch Soap Base." If you hurt yourself making this, it is not my fault... don't get me wrong; I do love you, but please follow the instructions very carefully. Why use Shortening? Because it's CHEAP and it provides a good medium for learning the process of soap-making.

This tutorial was designed to teach the soap-making process. It is also used for a 'Rebatching Base.' You'll see it used as a "Rebatch Base" in my other tutorials: Sexy Cinnamon Soap, and Orange Zest Soap.


Equipment:

Goggles
Rubber Gloves
Funnel
Glass Scientific Vessel (or Jar)
Stick Blender
Mold(s)
Oven Safe Pan
Candy Thermometer


Materials:

3/4 cup of Lye
1 Tablespoon of Olive Oil
3 pounds of Shortening

BIG TIME NOTE OF POTENTIAL DANGER, PAIN, DISFIGUREMENT, AILMENT, IMPAIRMENT, and/or TERRIBLE-NESS:
Lye is extremely CAUSTIC! It can cause severe chemical burns. If this is your first time using Lye, treat it as if it is radioactive... be respectful of this substance. ALWAYS keep a jug of Vinegar handy, as it chemically deactivates Lye. Use an expeditious amount of Vinegar if ever the "Lye Water" spills on the floor, you, or a kid...

ATTENTION!: If splashed with a LARGE amount of "Lye Water," pour water (a lot of running water) over the area, then apply Vinegar.

ATTENTION!: When splashed by a tiny amount of "Lye Water," it starts as a subtle itch; if your hands, arms, or face start itching; dowse immediately in Vinegar. If "Lye Water" is spilled on the floor Do Not Mop It Up Or Dilute It With Water. First... DEACTIVATE it with Vinegar, let it sit for a few minutes; this converts the Lye and Vinegar into harmless salt water, then mop it up.

If you have a scale, measure the Lye by weight (220 G). If not; VERY CAREFULLY measure out 3/4 cup and triple check it. Using your funnel, pour 3/4 cup of Crystallized Lye into your vessel, or jar. Use Gloves.They're Neat. Measure out 1 1/2 (330 Grams) cups of water (it's best to use distilled water, but purified or filtered water will do) and pour into your vessel.

Using a funnel, pour the Lye into the water vessel. Again, lye is Caustic. Don't allow Lye any opportunities to burn you.

During the initial chemical reaction between the Lye and water there will be fumes. I find these fumes disconcerting.. Don't let the fumes near your eyes (wear GOGGLES), nor allow yourself to inhale them. Place the "Lye Water" under the ventilation fan of your stove for a few minutes, when the water turns clear, it will stop 'fuming.' You will need to either agitate the water or stir it to keep chunks of lye from adhering to the base of the vessel.

Melt the Shortening (with glee swimming in your heart) at a Medium-High heat, and add 1 Tablespoon Olive Oil. The Olive Oil hardens the final soap product, it's very important; without it you will have a soft soap that will disintegrate quickly in water. When the Shortening is 3/4 melted; turn the heat off and remove from the burner. Check the Shortening for temperature with your candy thermometer, it should be close to 100-120 degrees Fahrenheit.

Check the "Lye Water" for temp, it should be around 175 degrees Fahrenheit. We will need to cool it down. Plug your sink and turn on the cold water, toss in a couple trays of ice cubes, then gently place the vessel of "Lye Water" in the ice bath. Make sure the level of ice water is on the same level as the "Lye Water."

When both "Lye Water" and melted Shortening are 97-100 degrees Fahrenheit, mix frabjously with a Stick Blender. "Shortening Soap" traces quickly. When it reaches "Trace" it becomes a somewhat thick pudding substance.

After "Trace" place the magical sludge into whatsoever mold you desire (Note: this does not include ANYTHING made of Aluminum or Cast Iron). This soap will "Set Up" quickly; you can usually cut it into bars within 3-4 hours. After cutting into bars, you must allow the soap to cure for 1-3 weeks before using.

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41 Comments

3.33 g of Sodium hydroxide in 100 ml water with some other stuff added.

I plan to make Lard/butter Oil soap in the future. I found by using the soapcalc that using additional coconut oil hardness the soap to much.

I treat my lye with greater respect than I treat my radioactive stuff...

I was wondering if I could use another oil besides olive to harden the mixture. I'm looking to make my own soap because I have developed an intolerance to coconut, olive, and almond. So I can't use any soaps with these ingredients either. They irritate my skin. I am going to try making my own soap without any of these ingredients.

You can use coconut oil mix with vegetable shortening and canola oil it makes great soap Palm and coconut oil makes a harder soap. Olive oil takes longer to cure.

I've made a few batches of soap a few years ago <hands on hips proudly> and I am running out so I am jumping back into the fray!

As I recall, shortening soap is pretty friendly, pretty easy to get along with - aside from the hours-long stir I did *by hand* years ago...but what I don't remember is if it seizes up with fragrance oils. Do you recommend putting them in early and losing some aroma or putting them in later because it will dash headlong to hard trace and leave you panting as you pour frantically?

I'm gettin' happy just thinking about it!

How much coconut oil would i have to add to this .

I already responded to you comment. Please see your answer below.

Good question, I don't have an answer for you. This recipe is balanced to use only the oil/shortening indicated. If you want to make your own soap, using oils you prefer, I suggest looking up the saponification value of the oil and the lye/water ratio necessary to convert it.
Such as this place:
http://summerbeemeadow.com/content/lye-calculator-and-recipe-resizer

Can i add coconut oil & how much do i add.