Introduction: Simple DIY Wormery (IKEA Hack)

I had to create a wormery for a lifestyle project unit that I took, as part of my degree. I didnt want to buy one because they are quite expensive for a student! This one costs around £15 if you already have the tools!

My design is a Frankenstein version of various designs  that I have seen on the internet, and works on the idea of tiered boxes (rather than just a box). This makes it easier to access the worm waste.

I used Ikea stacking boxes and therefore, this instructable will be centred around using the same; however, similar boxes could be used!

I thought that it was quite easy to build, and I hope that it works for you too! Good luck!

Step 1: Tools and Materials

 Tools you will need!

+ Work bench or table - (one that could be accidentally cut, without the resultant swearing and/or tears)
+ Pencil
+ Ruler or tape measure
+ Jigsaw and plastic cutting blades
+ Power drill and a small drill bit - (a second bigger bit may be required, depending on your saw)
+ Hot glue gun and glue sticks
+ (Sealant gun - if you don't have a squeezey sealant bottle)
+ Cup of cold water
+ Drilling block of wood

Materials you will need!

+ Three Ikea "Slugis" boxes - size 54x35x16 cm  (20l)
+ Three Ikea "Slugis" lids - size 54x35 cm 
+ Bathroom sealant

Step 2: Marking Out Two of the Lids

Taking one of the lids, place it upside down on the bench and measure 5mm in from the edge of the inner slope (shown in the image!). Draw the line, all the way around the lid, keeping the 5mm gap.

Do the same with one of the other lids.

Step 3: Cutting Out the Centre of the Lids

This stage involves cutting out the large squares that you have just drawn. You now have two choices (which my be decided by your saw's ability to cut a hole for it'self); you can drill a pilot hole for the saw, or cut one using the saw. If you haven't ever cut a hole using your saw, I would recommend drilling a pilot hole!

Carefully cut along the line, trying to keep just inside it. (You can always cut more, but you can't get it back if you cut too much!) I used the guiding rule/bar on my saw to help keep a straight line.

I won't lie - getting a straight line isn't the easiest part, but it is important to get it as straight as possible around the L shaped knobbly bits.

Do not cut into the L shaped knobbly bits!

Once you have cut the hole, repeat the process on the second lid.

Step 4: Gluing the Lids to the Base of the Trays

 Place one of the boxes upside down on the bench, and put one of the lids (also upside down) on top of it.

The feet of the box should fit tightly into the square hole that you cut. If it doesnt, then some careful trimming of the lid should fix it.

Once you know that the lid fits, one by one hinge the lid away from each foot to create a gap between the lid and the base of the box. Fill the gap with glue and quickly push the two surfaces together. repeat this for the other three feet.

Next glue the gap along the sides, between the lid and the box. Make sure that you are gluing the surfaces together, and not just sealing the edge. 

Step 5: Sealing the Edges

 Using the bathroom sealant, seal the joins between the box and the lid, on both the outside, and the inside. Use the water to smooth the sealant into the gaps, paying particular attention to the outside corners.

Step 6: Drilling the Holes

 Place the drilling block of wood on the bench, putting the box (the right way up) on top of it. Using the small drill bit, drill lines of holes, in a pattern of your choice, (try to get one that will drain well) in the bottom of the two boxes. I used an alternate line pattern, like a checked flag.

Make sure that you insure that the holes aren't too close together. This insures the boxes structure.

Repeat with the second box.

Step 7: Stack It and You're Finished!

 The bottom box acts as a reservoir for the liquid that is produced and the last lid fits on the top.

The next stage is to drill holes for air, but I have not decided where to put them yet! Some people put a tap in the bottom to drain the liquid, but I chose not to. It's easy enough to check it regularly and tip it out.

I would definitely recommend that you research how to keep the worms. It is relatively easy, but there are differing opinions on the best way. I'll leave that up to you! 

Comments

author
Schnelly+B made it!(author)2016-04-04

I made this. Admittedly with deeper Ikea bins as I already had these lying around. I did however have to add a layer between the bottom and the next layer up, because all my worms were drowning in the bottom bucket (that's weed proof pot lining that you see there and it seems to do the job). The top of the buckets is also ridiculously light, so that's two old plastic bottles filled with water keeping it down.

So far the worms seem happy enough, and I'm looking to build another for a friend soon. Thanks for the Instructable.

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author
Ravenoak made it!(author)2015-07-24

Should the holes for the top and middle boxes be different sizes? Eg: top larger than the bottom to retain the castings while letting liquid pass?

author
antioch made it!(author)2012-10-17

Great instructable that would be even more complete with a clear instruction on how to use a wormery or a good link.

author
Benji101 made it!(author)2012-10-20

Good idea. How's this for size?

http://www.envocare.co.uk/wormeries.htm

author
wilgubeast made it!(author)2011-09-28

This is an awesome repurposing of Ikea shelves. Great work.

author
MonteJC made it!(author)2010-01-12

That my friend, as they say, ROCKS

I'm located between 2 Ikeas.

My only problem is which one I can get to fastest.

author
Benji101 made it!(author)2010-01-12

 Awesome. =]

author
Benji101 made it!(author)2010-01-12

 If anyone decides to make this then please comment!!!

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