Introduction: Floating Box Shelves (From One 1 X 8)
Full video of the 2 x Floating Shelf Build build is below which can be found on my Youtube Channel, followed by materials list / tools list and a full set of written steps that you'll want to have to build your own version!
Step 1: Gather Materials!
We have a gallery wall in our apartment, and my fiancé wanted a set of floating shelves to put her books on. Simple and cheap project, many ways to do it, and a great final result for the average DIYer!
- 1 x 1" x 8" x 8' Pine / Whitewood Piece (non-select version)
- TiteBond II Wood Glue: http://amzn.to/2peRFus
- Minwax Golden Oak: http://amzn.to/2pwASGz
- 1.5” Brad Nails: http://amzn.to/2qgvcfN
- Frog Tape: http://amzn.to/2pygofL
TOOLS (Version A Cutting)
- RYOBI 10 in. Sliding Compound Miter Saw: http://amzn.to/2q1klHw
- RYOBI Miter Saw Stand: http://amzn.to/2p1072e
- RYOBI Table Saw: http://amzn.to/2h6ZQc4
TOOLS (Version B Cutting)
TOOLS (NEEDED TO FINISH PROJECT)
- RYOBI Cordless Brad Nailer: http://amzn.to/2p1dYFD
- RYOBI Cordless Orbital Sander: http://amzn.to/2oICOaP
- Hand Sanding Sponges (120 Grit): http://amzn.to/2oHa6pP
- 12” Rafter Square: http://amzn.to/2phZUIt
- Level (24”): http://amzn.to/2phF3Cj
- BESSEY 2.5” x 12” Clamp: http://amzn.to/2oIJGVy
- RYOBI Drill Bit Set: http://amzn.to/2oKKWXi
VIDEO / AUDIO EQUIPMENT
- Canon Rebel EOS T2i: http://amzn.to/2pwwlDI
- Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II Lens: http://amzn.to/2pwmuhi
- Rode Microphone: http://amzn.to/2oIExg3
- Adobe Premiere (Editorial): http://amzn.to/2oIXKhE
- Studio Lighting Equipment: http://amzn.to/2rtrkg0
Step 2: Take Note of the Material
Like I said, I bought 1 x 1" x 8" x 8' long, meaning I had 96" of material, meaning I could build 2 full shelves by cutting my pieces slightly less than 12 inches each. If you buy more or less material, factor that into your build, or just make sure that you buy enough to achieve your goals!
Step 3: Cutting / Ripping - Version A
I measured out 11.5 inch pieces and cut them to length on my miter saw, resulting in a set of four pieces (Pic 3). I then set my table saw blade to 45° and ran each piece through the saw to give each edge a clean mitered corner (pics 3 and 4). Make sure you cut your miters on the correct side - you want a trapezoid, not a parallelogram!
By the way, the reason I didn't do this all on my miter saw is that it does not cut 100% straight, which is then amplified as I do miter/beveled cut - so I need to fix that but hey, I managed!
Step 4: Cutting / Ripping - Version B
If you only have a circular saw, you can carefully mark / measure out your lines, set your saw blade to 45°, and cut then rotate and repeat the cut to give you the exact same piece. If you do this method, the cut you make will then give you the starting side of your next piece, so it is actually less cuts to accomplish this, it just might take a bit more skill.
Just take your time, be careful with your measurements to double check what you are cutting is equal amongst all your pieces, and it will be great!
Step 5: Glue Up Your Pieces
I used the "masking tape" method to glue these up. However, given that it was about 107° out that day, the tape wouldn't stick to my material, and although it kind of worked, it didn't really. So, after lining up the pieces on the tape and applying glue, I folded them up, and then used brad nails to hold them in place. If I could go back, I'd just clamp all four sides and the joints would be clean, strong, and not require any nails.
Wood glue is very strong - remember that. It is most likely going to be stronger than the wood itself when dry.
As such, I did use brad nails to attach everything together as it expedited my process as I had limited clamps at the time of the build - but they were not actually necessary for the build.
Step 6: Admire Your Current Result
Once it dries, you're left with a sweet looking box, like this!
Step 7: Sand and Finish
Next up, I sanded down the edges of the boards using an orbital sander at 80 grit followed by hand sanding at 120 - no splinters!
I then stained my shelves using Minwax's Summer Oak stain - no pre-conditioner or anything. This stain in particular soaks in well, and I'm always satisfied with the result. You can use whatever color you want for this (obviously!).
Step 8: Hanging - Part 1
I'll be using the below hardware to hang my shelves. The hardware on the left is for mounting to drywall (anchor and screw), and the right is for attaching to the wall and the shelf. You can mount these however you want of course, whatever fits your needs!
I believe Rockler makes an invisible hardware shelf - but it's about 20 bucks a piece, and I got my two hangers for $3, so...yea...
Step 9: Hanging - Part 2
Then, I did the following to hang my shelves:
- Place my shelf where I thought it would look good
- Mark and measure out the spaces where your holes will go, using a level to make sure things...are level
- Pre drill holes based on your screw size
- Lightly hammer in your anchors
- Drill in and attach your angle brackets
- Mark the location of where your shelves will attach to the brackets
- Pre drill holes for the screws
- Hang up and hand screw in the screws
Step 10: Set Up Your Shelves!
And then they were hung! And I put them to use! Hope you enjoyed this simple and fun Saturday project!
If you want to know any materials, tools, or have any general questions answered, you can check out the second step or contact me via my website, thecuttingbored.com and I would be happy to do answer them.
As always, thank you for reading! I would be so grateful if you could please subscribe to my Youtube Channel for future projects.
I put out videos every few weeks.
Step 11: **UPDATE** on Weight Limit
I'm getting a few questions about weight! The anchors are very very strong!
Attached above are two photos for your amusement.
Photo 1 - 10 lbs+ (2 x 5 lbs Dumbbells)
Photo 2 - 20 lbs (2 x 5 lbs dumbbells + 10 lbs Kettlebell)
Hope this helps!!