Simple Hardwired Dashcam

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Introduction: Simple Hardwired Dashcam

About: Youtube: www.youtube.com/channel/UCh5aXlcWXmVQ4ipj0y3qjbw?&ab_channel=SimpleCircuits

Hello everyone!

In today’s project, I will be installing a high quality dash-cam for my car.

I will be using my own car (2010 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS) but this setup will work for almost any vehicle.

Although most dash-cam manufactures recommend the use of the 12v accessory slot to power your dash-cam, this method eliminates the use of unwanted wires inside your car.

By hardwiring the dash-cam to your car's fuse block, you can hide the wires and still have access to your 12v accessory slot.

Step 1: Parts

There are three major components that are needed for this setup.

A 5v USB powered Dashcam (I used the Anker Roav C1 Pro)

Since my car is stored in a underground parking garage, I was able to select a dash-cam with lithium ion battery.

Depending on where you live, you may choose a camera with extreme temperature resistance.

Different companies offer dash-cams with capacitors that are capable of withstanding higher temperatures.

A 12v to 5v voltage converter

I used a converter that is built for automotive wiring.

Wide input range from DC8-22V to 5V 3Amax

This version has 2 usb outputs because I also have a Rear facing camera (optional)

A Fuse TAP Kit

This is different for each car so please refer to your car's owner's manual in order to find the size of the fuse blade.

Lastly, you will need various tools.

Step 2: Hardwired Fuse Block (Fuse Tap)

Before you hardwire the dash-cam to your car, you’ll need to find a reliable power source located inside the fuse Block

In my vehicle, the fuse block is located below the steering wheel and above the knee airbags.

There are two screws that hold up the plastic cover that covers the fuse block.

In order to prevent the dash-cam from draining the car’s battery, you’ll need to find a power source that turns off along with your car.

According to the owner’s manual, the fuse slot #13 powers the accessory socket and it has 15amps of capacity.

Once I located the 13th slot, I replaced the 15amp fuse blade with the “add a circuit” fuse tap wire.

With this new circuit, the 15amp fuse blade powers the accessory socket while the 5-amp fuse blade powers the dash-cam.

In order to ground the circuit, you may connect a wire originating from any metallic, unpainted surface within the car.

Since this circuit has 12volts of output, the voltage needs to be converted to match the dash-cam’s 5v requirements.

Step 3: Voltage Converter

After accessing 12v from slot#13 of the lanycer's fuse block, we can power up the voltage converter.

Wiring is extremely simple!

Red positive wire from the fuse tap connects to the red positive voltage converter wire.

Black negative wire from the voltage converter connects to any unpainted metallic surface inside the car.

Once these connections have been made, you can run the wires along the left side of the fuse block, up the side airbag and behind the top of the windshield.

Step 4: Dash Cam

This voltage converter came with two outputs (micro usb and female usb).

Once I connected the dash cam to the usb, it immediately turned on and started recording.

I also have an extension cable to power the second, rear facing camera but this is completely optional

The dash cam is mounted onto the top of the windshield using 3m mounting tape (included).

Step 5: Video Quality Test

If you want to see more videos like this, please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel.

If you’ve made this project or have suggestions, be sure to leave your comments below.

Lastly, thank you for your support.

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