Simple Movable Assembly/Outfeed Tables

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Introduction: Simple Movable Assembly/Outfeed Tables

I have a small shop, so the need for multi function equipment.

So what I have made is a set of easily movable, but sturdy assembly/outfeed tables.

As assembly tables I can have a 4 foot by 4 foot table, or 2 foot by 8 foot table, or two 2 foot by 4 foot tables. And they make a nice set of outfeed tables for my table saw.

I sized mine so that the top of the table lines up with the bottom of the miter slots in my table saw. This way I didn't have to cut miter slots, and I didn't have to worry about precise alignment when moving the tables around.

Step 1: Materials and Cutlist

Tools:

Miter saw

Drill

Impact driver (not necessary but nice to have)

Table saw or Band saw

Kreg pocket hole jig


Materials (listed per table, just double for two tables):

8 - 2"x4"x8' boards, construction grade, kiln dried

1 - 2'x4' 3/4 ply, construction grade

1 - 2'x4' 1/8 hardboard

1 - 32 1/2"x 20 3/8" ply (3/8 used because I had it laying around, you can use 1/2 instead)

4 - swivel casters

4 - door hinges

4 - hooks

2 - springs

2 - lag screws

2 - washers

2 1/2" screws

2 1/2" Kreg screws


Cutlist (for the 2x4):

4 - 35"

4 - 48"

4 - 28"

8 - 18"

2 - 20 1/2"

2 - 13"

2 - 9"

2 - 3"

Step 2: Leg Assembly

First is to assemble the legs. Lay the 35" boards down. Then lay the 28" boards on top. Line them up by using 2 of the 18" Boards to space them in the center of the 35". Then screw the 28" boards to the 35" boards.

Next lay the 48" boards on top of two legs. Square the legs and stretchers. Screw together, making sure to leave space for the Kreg screws to go.

Step 3: Frame Assembly

Drill pocket holes in all 8 18" boards.

Attach 1 18" board in each corner of one of the leg assemblies.

Stand the leg assemblies up and screw together.

Step 4: Wheel/Lifting Mechanism

Attach casters to the 3" and 13" boards, spaced far enough from the hinge end to allow for free caster movement.

Attach door hinges to the same boards.

Attach the 20 1/2" boards to the 3" boards.

Now attach the 13" boards to the front of the frame so that it swings inward with the hinge perpendicular to the floor. If you attach the hinge parallel to the floor it doesn't work as well.

Attach the 20 1/2" boards to the rear of the frame lined up with the 13" boards; so that when the 20 1/2" board is depressed it pushes the 13" board parallel to the floor.

Add an 18" board next to the lifting mechanism to prevent the frame from bowing when raised.

Step 5: Lock Mechanism

Cut a 45 degree angle on the end of the 9" boards. I used my table saw, you can use a band saw.

Cut a notch 1 inch from the start of the angle. The notch should be 2 1/2" x 1 3/4". Again, I used my table saw, you can use a band saw.

Drill a hole that is slightly larger than your lag screw, centered below the notch. Drill the start of the hole to fit the head of the lag screw below flush.

Line the 9" board on the front of the frame to hold the wheel mechanism down. Drill a hole to accommodate the minor diameter of the screw. Attach the 9" board to the frame so that it swings freely.

Attach a hook to the upper corner nearest to the leg on the 9" board. Attach the corresponding hook to the leg lower than the hook on the 9" board. Apply spring.

Step 6: Tops and Shelf

Attach the last two 18" boards in between the 48" boards.

Attach the 3/8 ply to the bottom.

Attach 3/4 ply to the top. Attach hardboard on top of the 3/4 ply. The hardboard can be replaced as needed.

Step 7: Conclusion

And there you have it. A simple, inexpensive workshop table.

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    Very nice! Versatility is the name of the game in my shop too. I really like this two-table approach, and appreciate the thought that went into this. well done! :)