This is an instructable for making your own PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) flyback driver!
The design is relatively simple and easy to make if you have basic electronic skills.
In fact, you don't even have to know how a transistor or a MOSFET works to make this. You only have to follow the instructions.
What the PWM driver does:
The driver is fed by a 12V power supply (a regular DC adapter). This DC voltage is chopped into pieces by our MOSFET because it rapidly switches the 12V on and off. This switching is controllable by two potentiometers. One for the ON-time and one for the OFF-time.
If the ON-time and the OFF-time are equal, the output voltage will be 6V.
If the ON-time is larger then the OFF-time, the output voltage will be between 6V and 12V
If the ON-time is smaller then the OFF-time, the output voltage will be between 0V and 6V.
So with this feature, we can control the average voltage that our primary Flyback coil gets. This will change the output voltage.
When we make sure both potentiometers have the same resistance value, we'll create a block-wave signal that has the same ON- as OFF-time. Decreasing the resistance (of both potentiometers, at the same time) will increase the frequency of the output signal. Increasing the resistance will decrease the frequency.
We now have controllable ON- and OFF-time, and controllable frequency, so this driver is perfect for Any flyback transformer! (Each flyback transformer works better on another frequency).
The operating frequency of the flyback transformer goes somewhere from 15kHz to 50kHz. My flybacks operate best at 20kHz.
(oh, and the power supply doesn't need to be exactly 12V. You can also use a 30V supply or something a little lower then 12V).
Preview video of the PWM driver:
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Signing UpStep 1Requirements
- a PCB
- a power supply (DC adapter 12V to 20V)
- a heatsink (the size of the heatsink depends on the flyback and on the type of MOSFET, you'll have to experiment)
- a MOSFET (I used an IRFB17N50L because they're awesome)
- wire for making connections at the bottom of the PCB
- 2x potentiometer 100kohm
- 2x resistor 260ohm 250mW
- 2x resistor 1kohm 250mW
- 1x resistor 4k7ohm 250mW for the LED (high resistance so that we can also use greater power supplies)
- 2x capacitor 3.3nF polyester film or something close to that
- 2x NPN transistor (regular transistor)
- a small pushbutton (not required)
- a flyback transformer (not required)
- a FAN connector for inserting the MOSFET (not required, you may solder it directly on your PCB)
The picture above here shows how the components look like.
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The diode protects the mosfet, most mosfets have one there.
I have more turns on the flyback's primary because my power supply can only deliver 3A.
thanks for the bug zapper haha :D
And yes, this one also works fine ;) I still use it.
I'm not really working at something right now, I'm quite busy :(
and you'll have to use two the same capacitors.
G, D, S
I can't tell you for sure that this will be exactly the same on your mosfet, so you should look up the connections in the datasheet of your mosfet.
If you can't find the datasheet for it, please send me the printed numbers from on your MOSFET and then I'll look it up.
(It sais 'MOSFET' above it ??)
Or do you mean the print board? because I think you did find it on the diagram (schematic).
on the print board, it is connected into the PC FAN socket (the white plug)
and it's mounted on the big black cooling plate (heat sink).
The weird lines are just the symbol of the mosfet.
The three wires leaving the MOSFET symbol are the three pins of the mosfet itself.
Just don't mind the weird symbol, there is nothing you need to connect there, it's all internally in your mosfet already.
I have a handful of what i think are MOSFETS, or transistors. THey all have three prongs and the numbers are as goes: IRFS640A, FS14SM16A and C54119K (this last one says its toshiba). I was curious if i could use one of these instead of buying a mosfet.
Thanks for your help.
FS14SM16A: also perfect
C54119K: I have no idea what that is
You definitely don't need to buy a MOSFET. Both the first and second are Power MOSFET's and are perfect for this application.
Sorry for the late reply.
http://www.davidbridgen.com/astable.htm
Thanks.
This is printed on the capacitor:
332J
2ASIC
I'm pretty sure that means 3300pF ;)
One more thing what npn transistors did you use and does the MOSFET get hot?
The transistors I used are 'F422' but it doesn't really matter which you take.
I am going to give this a try as all of my 555 based drivers keep dieing.
Very nice instructable, i need to drive a SSC-P7 LED at max brightness and i've been looking everywhere for an easy to build driver and i found yours.
So can this controller be used to drive a power led? and how much current can the mosfet handle?
I'm going to build it anyway (because it's great) but i ask about the led because i don't know if it could destroy it or not.
Thank You!
The mosfet I'm using can hande 16A continues drain current, but it really depends on what mosfet you'll use.
For the power LED: If your power LED is rated at, for example, 4V, then you'll have to use a power supply rated also at 4V.
If the voltage of your power supply is larger, you'll kill the LED when the ON-time of the PWM is maximum and the OFF-time is minimum.
And an answer to your question: Yes, using an LED on a PWM controller is no problem. It'll work just like you want to.
Greetings,
Electorials
Again, thanks for posting this 'ible.