After making the Multi-functional Workbench, and a few projects later, I realized that I needed another workbench. The multi-functional workbench worked great, but it's fairly complicated to set-up, also when I was in the middle of the project and the workbench was in use, cutting some more plywood became a hassle.

I never liked to break down plywood on two sawhorses, as it did not quite feel safe for me. So there is a reason to build a simple work table / plywood cutting table. It should be easy set up and takes very small space in the shop.

Step 1: Material And Hardware

I bought (5) of 8' long 2x4 from home center, and that's all I needed for the table.

I own (2) of the metal folding sawhorses, and I had some scrap lumber screwed on top of them. I also found some left over window latches that I could use to lock the table top to the sawhorses.

First cut (3) of the 2x4 into 48" pieces. Then bundle them together with two clamps to trim them to the final length, in this case 47". Leave them clamping together for next step.

Lay out the notches 12" from each end while they were still clamped together, and (5) of them would be placed 16" from one to the other on two of the 8' long supporting beams.

<p>Thanks for brilliant and simple design! I starting garage cabinets from cutting table. Author is awesome. Lots of skills. Many thanks!</p>
Thanks. <br>Hey, that track saw looks pretty good! Post a pictre or two when you are done with the garage cabinets.
<p>This is my target (based on your design) Chemetal samples are in pocket. Looking for a quality white melamine.</p>
Sweet! For sure we need pictures.<br>Melamine is a little tricky, you might need special blade or at least scoring cut. But Festool is the way to go.
<p>Chemetal samples</p>
<p>Mission accomplished. My own PCT.</p><p>Thank you for the idea.</p>
Looking great. I like the color, very inspirational. Thanks for sharing.
<p>Great idea. Today I bought the material for construction. Also, I will make one. Thanks.</p>
<p>We have a metric system. Plywood or OSB boards have dimensions of 2.5 x 1.25 m. The dimension of the plank is thus 100x50 mm. They need 2 pieces of length 2.5 m and 5 pieces of length 1.25 m.</p>
<p>I would suggest to cut the notches on two of the 2.5m pieces at only 25mm to 30mm deep, so that they can support more weight. </p><p>One time I set this up for me to stand and walk on it while painting the ceiling of a room, it did get a little bit concave because of my weight. My next table will need three longer pieces instead of two.</p><p>Thanks, have fun building it. </p>
This is an outstanding idea. Simple and straight forward build. Kudos!
<p>Next in the project queue. Cool build.</p>
Thanks. Please share some pictures when you complete it.
<p>Ez nagyon cool! Tavasszal megcsin&aacute;lom &Eacute;n is! THX.</p>
<p>I have been building a tinyhouse for a year now and have been in dire need of an outdoor collapsible table for building various things. This fit the bill beautifully! Works great for cutting plywood and just having a level building surface in general! I would highly recommend this ible to anyone with a garage and needs a large table surface!</p>
<p>To stop cutting into the frames for mine I avoided cutting half way through each beam. I use 2&quot; x 2&quot; piece and notch on 1/2&quot;. The leave the beams 1/2&quot; proud on each top and bottom. If I'm cross cutting, I have the 4' beams on top. For ripping I flip the frame over to the 8' side. With my saw blade or route bit no more then 3/8&quot; below the sheet goods I avoid making unintended cuts.</p>
<p>Great idea. Thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>I dig this. Very clever, and an inexpensive solution!</p>
<p>Just a couple of tips to help things out:</p><p>You don't have to trim all of your short members to be the same because your notches are all cut while the boards are clamped. That eliminates the need for either a long hand saw or a sliding miter saw. Yes, they will look wonky, but functionally they will be sufficient.</p><p>If you don't have a good, sharp chisel, you can just *carefully* slide your circular saw back and forth across the notch to get the bottom smoothed out and level (as long as the base maintains good contact with your guides.</p><p>This is a great idea and with 2x4s costing (in NW Oregon) around $3, this is easily a $20 project if you have the cutting jigs and saw horses. I foresee one in my near future.</p>
<p>Jobar007,</p><p>&quot;You don't have to trim all of your short members to be the same because your notches are all cut while the boards are clamped. That eliminates the need for either a long hand saw or a sliding miter saw. Yes, they will look wonky, but functionally they will be sufficient.&quot; - Good point. I am an engineer, maybe it's the nature of me trying my best ability to make everything square and precise, I am sure it would still function well if it is not.</p><p> &quot;If you don't have a good, sharp chisel, you can just *carefully* slide your circular saw back and forth across the notch to get the bottom smoothed out and level (as long as the base maintains good contact with your guides.&quot; - I would never make this recommendation to the general public, it's not a safe practice. I've seen them been done, but I rather use hand tools for this task.</p><p>Thanks! </p>
<p>It is absolutely not safe, that's for sure. That's why I created a jig to make it a bit safer. Is it as safe as a properly sharpened chisel used in an appropriate way? No. But that's a risk I'm willing to take. I've assumed that liability just like anyone following my advise. People are responsible for their actions, despite the casual nature of litigation. I'm approaching soap box territory with this one so I'll step down.</p><p>I can't sharpen a chisel to save my life and a dull chisel can be just as dangerous (digging in and then unexpectedly giving say and slicing something soft). Somehow I manage to even mess up sharpening using a jig. Everything is a compromise of safety and I agree that you should mitigate danger in every way possible. </p>
<p>Oh NOES!!!!!! </p><p>You MUST - absolutely MUST, have a RAZOR sharp chisel, and a 75mm rubber mallet.</p><p>All Joints + or - 0.01mm.</p><p>Discipline my leader, discipline.</p>
<p>Yeah how I make this, is the make a rectangular external framing around it, and then put the trussing on the inside. AND if you pre-drill some small pilot holes, or use a big drill with a screw driver, and accurately mark the hole positions, like every 100mm, then by running thick glue lines on each side of the framing, one can drop some 12mm CD ply on both sides or 8mm one side and 15 to 19mm on the other side, you can screw the ply down, on the glue lines and build a hollow section table, that is immensely strong - and low in weight.</p>
<p>Nice job! Well done. Thanks for sharing</p>
<p>Good carpentry, it's surprising how easy it is to mess up the cuts. I made a similar one using some old 1 by 2&quot; stock I had that didn't last two uses. </p><p>Taking it down is a good way to avoid the flat surface magnet for whatever becomes a &quot;I'm a gunna.&quot; project. And they tend to multiply like rabbits. Then you end up having to move the &quot;I'm a gunna.&quot; projects someplace (uh . . another not so flat surface over crowded with &quot;I'm a gunna.&quot; stuff) so the must do projects can be worked on . . .</p>
<p>This is a brilliant idea -Well done on a great make.</p><p>Do you see the beams and cross members as sacrificial when cutting sheet materials? I always use a sacrificial timber on my saw-horses, so when it's been cut/notched/sliced/diced to destruction I just replace it.</p><p>But with the ease and low cost of this, I'm not sure whether I would bother with tacking on another piece of timber. It'd be just as quick to make up a new set as it would replacing all the sacrificial strips.</p>
<p>Thanks.</p><p>My initial thought was to use the table as sacrificial when cutting sheet good.</p><p>If in case you are not consider that, one way is to use a sheet of house insulation board as the sacrificial, it also help the dust collection when using the track saw. It weights very little, and you can cut it into three 16&quot;x8' strips, tape them together to use as a sheet, fold them when you are done to save some space.</p><p><img height="400" id="superPIP__productImage" src="http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/04/041287f3-e54f-4227-8c4f-eba6c11d2e5c_400.jpg" style="width: 285.0px;" width="400"></p><p>Another easy way to save the table is to drill some holes on the top, use dowels to space out the sheet good from table top, or use biscuit joiner to cut some slots and use #20 biscuits as spacers.</p><p>Thanks! JZ</p>
<p>This is making me reconsider how I built a suspended miniatures gaming table in my barn...</p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>This looks much nicer than a similar one I made. On mine, I put some notches in the top of the 2x4s for the saw blade to run through so I would not get a bunch of random cuts in them. I just shift the panel I am cutting so the cut line lines up with the nearest notch.</p><p>This kind of table is essential if you have to cut paneling by yourself. It does a good job of keeping the panel fully supported so there in no binding of the saw and dangerous kick-back.</p>
<p>Thanks everyone!</p><p>Still thinking about the plywood loading feature to save my back, and some way to keep the tools around - detachable tool tote or shelving.</p>
Awesome! Could have used this a few months ago cutting paneling!
<p>Great set up. The low cost of the project and lack of metal hardware is great if you happen to accidentally cut into it. Something satisfying about knocking wood out of a notch with a hammer and chisel as well. </p>
<p>cool idea</p>

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