Simple Round Table





Introduction: Simple Round Table

This project was built with a round top from a broken table and two 2x4’s. The top in this project is 30 inches in diameter. However, the designed can be scaled up or down based on your top diameter and/or desired table height. See drawing and video for build instructions.


Step 1: Tools/Materials


  • Saw
  • Drill and bits
  • Pocket-hole jig (optional)
  • Sander
  • Tape measure


  • Round table top (30” diameter used for this project)
  • Two 8 foot long 2x4s
  • Screws or Nails
  • Glue
  • Paint

Step 2: Table Top

Find, buy or make a table top. This top was taken from a 1970’s round table. It took a little bit of sanding to remove the blemishes.

Step 3: Upper/Lower Attachment

Cut the lower attachment pieces to 14.5” long. Chamfer the width dimension to a 60 degree angle. Chamfer the thickness dimension to 15 degrees. Cut the upper attachment pieces to 7” long. Chamfer the width dimension to a 60 degree angle. Chamfer the thickness dimension to 15 degrees – see pictures.

Step 4: Upper/Lower Attachment Assemblies

Attach the lower and upper attachment sections together as shown. I used a pocket-hole jig to drill the connection holes. Think ahead at this point to make sure the holes are on the bottom (floor) and under the table top. Add glue to the joint before screwing together.

Step 5:

Once complete, you should have two attachment assemblies

Step 6: Legs

Cut the legs to 31” long. Chamfer the thickness dimension on both ends to 15 degrees – see picture.

Step 7: Ready to Assembly Legs to Attachment Assemblies

Step 8: Attach Legs to Upper Attachment Assy

Add legs to the upper attachment assembly. I tried using the pocket-hole jig for these connections but the connection didn’t feel secure enough. I scrapped that idea and used deck screws from the sides. If you implement this method, use a countersink bit so you can fill the hole later.

Step 9: Attach Lower Attachment Assy

Attach lower attachment assembly to the upper attachment / leg assembly. Again, I used deck screws and glue.

Step 10: Sand

Use wood filler to cover the screw holes and any gaps in the wood. Sand to remove wood filler and clean up the joint lines.

Step 11: Paint

Paint or stain the legs and top to your desired color. I used white for the legs and green for the top.

Step 12: Add Guide Hole for Legs

Drill a small hole at the intersection of the upper attachment assembly. This will be the center location for the round top.

Step 13: Drill Alignment Hole in Top

Find center of round top. Measure the diameter. Use a string or tape measure set to the radius and draw a light arc. Move the string to another point on the edge of the table and draw another arc. The intersection of these two arcs is the center. Try a third arc to verify. Drill a hole at the intersection.

Step 14: Attach Top to Leg Assembly

Use a nail or rod to line up the hole in the leg assembly to the hole in the round top. This will keep the top centered on the leg assembly. Drill pilot holes through the upper attachment assembly. Use wood screws to attach the leg assembly to the top. Make sure the screws don’t protrude through the top.

Step 15: Final Product!



  • Paper Contest 2018

    Paper Contest 2018
  • Pocket-Sized Contest

    Pocket-Sized Contest
  • Science of Cooking

    Science of Cooking

We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.




I really like this project, and would like to adapt it for a very large dining table (72" diameter). If you have any tips for adapting this design up that large, I would appreciate them. I wonder if a 36" diameter design could just be doubled?

Thank you. I don't have the cad files anymore but I assume you could scale it - check the math first. I am a little concerned with stability using 2x4s on a 72" diameter. I think I would switch to 4x4s to be safe.

Sight variation but your directions are exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. (I also raised the bottom an inch to prevent wobble)


That looks awesome. I love the glass top!

All - I said in the introduction that the design could be scaled up or down based on the table diameter and height. This might be a trigonometry / geometry challenge for some. Actually, I was lazy and modeled the design in CAD. Let me know if you can't figure out the dimensions for your design. I can provide an updated drawing based on your specs (diameter/height) - limited time only :)

I was looking to make children sized stools. This design seems very solid and cheap to make. What would the dimensions need to be for the upper and lower attachments assemblies assuming I wanted a height of 1' and a relatively small top. say 10" to 12" Dia.

mtairymd....great job. I love the you think it would work for a bar height table (42")? Would it be stable enough? If so, I would like to take you up on your offer to work out the angles using your CAD program?

I'd be interested in a 42" version too! It would be super helpful. Great idea and design!

First, the table is very stable. However, if I had to do it again, I would make the change "Make_This" suggested below - extend legs slightly beyond the bottom plane.

I had to work with the 30" diameter top since it was "free". My goal was to have the legs inside the diameter of the table (less than 30"). If you have the same preference, I don't think 42" in height and a 30" diameter will work.

I just did a little research on common sizes:

To seat 4 people: 36" - 44" diameter

To seat 6 people: 44" - 54" diameter

Do you have a preference on diameter? Also, please verify the exact height needed.