Simple Skateboard Rack





Introduction: Simple Skateboard Rack

This simple skateboard rack can be easily customized for up to five skateboards and can be built with a single 8' x 2" x 4" piece of lumber. If you're able to find a nice, surfaced piece of wood you should only need a miter saw or even a handsaw and a drill to build this. I'll be using a piece of cedar from a local reclaimed lumber store that unfortunately needed a little cleaning up.

Step 1: Preparing the Lumber

This piece of cedar was fairly rough and had some damage to it that needed cutting out. I started cleaning it up by running it through the jointer and planer. After that I ripped the worst of the damage off at the table saw. The final width was roughly 3.5" wide and a little over 1.75" thick.

Step 2: Cut the Pieces

With the board cleaned up, I started by cutting the back piece to length. I then cut all the 45° angles for the smaller front pieces. Here you could definitely make adjustments depending on how many boards you wish to display.

Step 3: Trim the Top Edges

Once all the pieces were cut, I trimmed a little off the top lip of each to help prevent them from chipping when skateboards were placed on the rack.

Step 4: Glue the Pieces

Next I marked a few guidelines for positioning the front pieces with roughly a 3/4" gap between each piece. I then glued each of the front pieces onto the back using Titebond Wood Glue. Setting up the clamps was a little annoying as the pieces wanted to squirm around a bit, but it turned out fine in the end.

Step 5: Clean the Glue Joints

Once the glue had completely dried, I used a card scraper and some sandpaper to clean the glue joints.

Step 6: Drill Mounting Holes

Next, I drilled a counter-bore hole in the top and bottom of the rack for two 4.5" Heavy Duty HeadLok screws. I drilled these so that roughly 2.5" of the screw would extend out the rack for mounting to the wall.

Step 7: Apply the Finish

For the finish, I used a coat of boiled linseed oil followed by several (6-7) thin coats of homemade wipe-on-polyurethane (a 1:1 ratio of Clear Gloss Minwax Polyurethane and Mineral Spirits). I sanded lightly between roughly every other coat.

Step 8: Attach Screws for Hanging Helmets

Finally, I predrilled and added two cabinet screws (the HeadLok screws would also work) to the bottom of the rack for hanging helmets.

Step 9: Mount the Rack

To mount the rack I located a stud and predrilled a hole for the top screw. I then hung the rack with only the top screw with it just barely loose (so that it could still be rotated). After leveling the rack on the wall, I marked where the lower screw should go and rotated the rack out of the way in order to predrill the hole. Finally, I added the lower screw and tightened the top screw.

Step 10: Hang Your Gear

That was pretty much it! This rack was for a friend of mine, and while it was pretty simple to build, I spent a little extra time on the finish which I think turned out pretty nice.

If you have any questions, please leave them below and check out the free plans if you're interested in building one yourself.

Step 11: Parts List

Step 12: Tools Used

Step 13: Plans

Free PDF and SketchUp Plans can be downloaded from our website.



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    thanks I think I'm going to build this next chance i get. Though I wonder why you didn't just use the dato on the table saw, to minimize the number of parts and glued seams to clean up? I'll use my dato.

    You could, but many people don't have dado blades and the reclaimed lumber store I went to only had 2x4 cedar :). Dado blades are usually 8" instead of 10" and using them to cut at an angle puts a lot of stress on the saw/arbor/etc. You could also use a normal 10" blade and make several passes per slot with it and then clean it up with a chisel.

    could this rack hold a 38'' longboard and a 42'' longboard?

    My friend is using it with a 37" board with no problems. If you can find a little wider board (or avoid the rot that I had), then I don't think you'd have any problems.