Introduction: Single Wheeled Bike Trailer

Tired of bumbling along single track trails with two tires on your trailer fighting for the track? Too full of pride to plunk down the dough for a store-bought one? Never again. With this instructable, you'll be the envy of the trail.

I built this trailer to use on my recent ride down the C&O; Canal Towpath. The trail is 184.5 miles and runs along (you guessed it!) the C&O; Canal, from Cumberland, MD, to Washington, DC. For the most part, the trail is hard packed dirt, although there are places where it's mulch, crushed rock and even paved in a spot or two. I decided to build this after having gone online and found that, while two-wheeled trailers would work, single-wheeled ones are recommended. I looked at buying one, but at ~$325, I didn't look too long.

That's when I decided I could do better. I think I did...what do you think?

I wasn't sure how to go about building it and thought of a couple different ways to do so. PVC was considered, as was copper tubing, but I finally settled on electrical conduit after seeing I could get a 10' length for $2.50! I settled on brazing the pieces together after perusing the conduit connectors and realizing they probably weren't going to be strong enough. The only problem with brazing was that I had no idea how to go about it. (Sure, I learned in 8th grade shop, but that was ages ago!) I did some searching on the web and finally decided to just go for it. In the end I found out it wasn't that difficult (looking at the trailer, you can tell which joints were brazed early in the project and which were done last -- the learning curve isn't' that steep).

Excluding tools, this can be made for less than $20. What you do with the savings (~$300) is up to you.

Step 1: Ingredients

You'll need the following ingredients to make this trailer:

Parts
4 x 10' 1/2" electrical conduit
front fork of junker bike*
rear wheel triangle of junker bike*
head tube and seat post of junker bike
wheel (16" or 20" -- I used a 20" tire off my daughter's old bike)**
1" to 3/4" conduit step down washer
1/2" screw-type conduit connectors (3)

*This was made using a 26" mountain bike since it's going on to be used behind 26" mountain bike. I recommend using the same size (or larger) fork/rear triangle as you have on the hauling bike.

**While you could use the wheel from the junker bike if absolutely necessary, having the smaller diameter tire allows the trailer to be parallel to the ground.

Tools
brazing torch and rods (I used MAPP vs. propane for a quicker job)
bench grinder
drill*
hack saw (w/ metal blade)
conduit bender

*This is used to cut the holes in the fork. A metal bit is required. I used a Lenox 3/4" Arbored Hole Saw Drill Bit and it work liked a champ.

Extras
Bungee cords
carrying bins

And now, a word of warning, courtesy of Fletcher:

A word of caution about working with electrical conduit: Conduit is generally galvanized, meaning it's got a thin coating of zinc. Zinc is toxic; grinding, welding, brazing, etc. will vaporize the zinc, raising the risk of inhalation. Before working with galvanized pipe, remove the zinc layer (it's thin, so sanding/use of a wire wheel or brush will do it) in an area with good ventilation. A fan would be a good idea, as would a quality respirator (a simple filter mask won't do.) Conduit is a good, inexpensive basis for building all sorts of things ; just remember to take the proper safety precautions.

Step 2: Remove Unwanted Bike Parts

The first thing I did was strip the old frame of parts that I needed for the trailer. I got an old mountain bike from a local freecycle member and immediately stripped off (and saved) everything I didn't need.

Once the bike was stripped of unwanted items, I took the hacksaw out and started cutting off the rear triangle. I wasn't sure how long I needed the "arms" to be, so I cut as close to the seat tube as possible.

Using the conduit bender, I bent the bottom arms of the rear triangle so that they were parallel to the top arms of the triangle. See the second picture for a look at what I mean.

I also cut off the head tube from the frame for use in the pivot point assembly.

I then ground off the residual metal from the head tube and tapered the rear arms so that they fit together nicely and provided a larger surface area for brazing. (I didn't braze this together at this point, although it could be done here.)

Step 3: Trailer Frame Parts

The next step was cutting the following pieces using the electrical conduit:

bottom frame (1)*
top frame (1)*
horizontal supports (3)
angled support (1)
vertical supports (2 large, 2 small)
fork supports (3)
stress spars (2)
wheel guard (1)*

*These are U shaped that required being bent with the pipe bender.

I wanted to have a trailer that was 16" wide (to accommodate the tub I had planned on using) so I took a piece of electrical conduit, cut it to length (~72") and then, using the pipe bender, bent it so that it was a U shape. I had a little difficulty getting the U to be even (the bend was tighter on one side vs. the other, as seen in the picture), but after a few attempts at bending/straightening, I was able to get it close enough.

Once I got the bottom frame cut and bent, I did the same thing for the top frame. I cut a piece of conduit that was ~48" long and bent it to match the bottom frame.

NOTE: The radius of both the top and bottom frames is 8" (to make a 16" frame). If you want a different sized frame, make the radius of your frame 1/2 the width.

I then measured and cut the horizontal, angled, vertical and fork supports to size, followed by the wheel guard. I found it easier to measure and cut these pieces once I had the two frames cut and shaped vs. cutting everything to plan and then having to figure out how to deviate from the plan if the frame wasn't true...which it wasn't.

(At this point in the process, I didn't realize I was going to use stress spars and had only planned on three vertical supports, so I didn't cut them yet. That being said, if you're making your own, you might as well cut these now.)

Step 4: Grinding Conduit

Once the pieces were cut out, I needed to grind the ends of the various support pieces so that they fit snugly with the frame. By tapering the ends, I ensured there would be maximum contact between the supports and the frame in order to increase the strength of the brazing bond.

I used the course grinding wheel to do the initial cut and then the fine wheel to finish it off. After a while, I had the horizontal supports, the fork supports and the wheel guard tapered and fitting nicely with the frame. (When it came time to add the stress spars, I tapered one end of each spars -- see note below.)

The picture below shows the trailer towards the end of the build. The tapered edges can be seen on the three vertical supports. The top frame will rest on the top of the three supports. The tapered edges will allow the vertical supports to better fit the top frame (similar to a ball sitting in a bowl) vs. having the top frame rest on a flat surface (like a ball sitting on a plate).

NOTE: I did NOT grind one of the horizontal supports. Instead, I flattened both ends and brazed them onto the bottom of the bottom frame to provide a spot where the two stress spars could be attached. I didn't plan on this during the build, but when I decided to add the stress spars later on, having this attached in this fashion made it easier to attach them to the trailer.

Step 5: Let the Brazing Begin!

After the horizontal supports were cut and fitted, I began the brazing process by brazing the support piece that I didn't taper to the bottom of the frame. In order to increase the surface area and thereby increase the strength of the bond, I flattened out each end of the support (using a vise). (As I said in the previous step, I didn't plan on using this for anything, but it worked out in the end.

Once this was in place, I worked my way down the frame, putting the next horizontal piece in place. (See pictures for the orders in which the support pieces were added.) Once the first "interior" cross beam was in placed, I tapered the angled support bracket so it would fit at a 30 degree angle to the horizontal support. I then put the second horizontal piece on, fit the angled support piece in place and brazed that in place. Once the angled one was done, I brazed the third horizontal support in place.

Other than 8th grade shop, I had never brazed before and you can tell by looking at the joints. The first few I did are butt ugly. The last ones I did, while not commercial quality, are much better. I used MAPP gas (vs. propane) to get a higher temperature and (hopefully) decrease the time it took. I ended up going through ~1.5 bottles of gas. (I took the torch and a few brazing rods with me on our trip in case I needed to make emergency repairs on the trail. It turned out they weren't needed.)

NOTE: Not being an engineer, I have no idea whether an angled support brace is required or not, but I figured I should add it in order to increase the side-to-side strength of the trailer (since it's only a single wheeled trailer). This is also where the bulk of the weight will be when carrying items.

SUB-NOTE: My dad is an engineer though, and he thought it was pretty good idea.

Step 6: Attaching the Wheel to the Trailer

Recall that I used the front fork of the castoff bike to hold the wheel in place. That was the easy part (I simply removed the wheel from my daughter's bike and attached it to the castoff bike's fork -- although I did have to increase the diameter of the hole in the lawyer lips from the junker bike as they didn't fit around the axle of my daughter's wheel). The hard part was attaching the fork to the trailer itself.

At first I decided I would drill a pair of holes in the fork stem and put two fork supports through the hole. I would then braze the fork supports to both the fork and the trailer. After further consideration, however, I figured three supports was better than two, so that's how I ended up with three sets of holes.

Once the holes were drilled in the fork, I slid the supports through the holes. Before brazing the fork supports onto the frame, I cut the conduit connectors in half and, after filing down the inside so they'd fit, slid them on the supports so one was on each side of the fork. I straightened out the fork (as best I could) and tightened each connector so that (in theory) the fork would remain straight and true with the rest of the trailer.

The fork assembly was now ready to be attached to the rest of the trailer, which was simply a case of brazing each support onto the bottom frame in the desired location. Once the fork assembly was in place, I adjusted the fork again so that the wheel would be perpendicular to the trailer (again, in theory) and then brazed the connectors to the supports. The last step in this process was brazing the fork to the supports. (As it turned out, the wheel wasn't completely perpendicular to the trailer...I guess I only measured once vs. twice.)

NOTE: You should properly prepare surfaces being brazed by cleaning them and removing any paint with a wire brush, a wire brush drill bit or wire wheel (on the bench grinder). This will not only allow the brazing material to adhere better to the metal, it will not release paint toxins into the air.

Step 7: Attaching the Top and Bottom Frames

After attaching the wheel, I then added the top frame to the bottom frame. I used the hacksaw to cut the top frame ends at an angle (to match the angle it would meet the bottom frame) and then used the grinder to taper the ends (again, to increase the contact surface area between the frames).

Once the top frame was sized properly, I brazed the vertical supports to the bottom frame and then, using a clamp, held the top frame to the bottom frame and attached it to the supports as well. The last step in attaching the top frame was brazing the ends to the bottom frame. In order to maintain contact, I used clamps to hold the top frame taut against the bottom frame.

After brazing the frames together, I decided to add a couple more vertical supports so that the top rail was more secured when attaching bungee cords. Measuring is much easier when you have a specific place in mind, so 15 minutes later, they were cut, tapered and brazed into place.

NOTE: I had originally planned on using three vertical supports in the front of the trailer, but took one off after I came up with a better solution for attaching the trailer to the bike. You can see the support that was removed in the pictures.

Step 8: Bike/Trailer Connection (The Hitch)

This was the most difficult part of the project. I scratched my head for a good week or so in trying to figure out how to connect the two before I even started this project. While I had a general idea on how to connect them, I didn't have a specific solution. I knew I would use the rear triangle of a mountain bike as I needed it to fit around the rear tire of my mountain bike.

With that in mind, here's how I made what I've come to call...The Hitch.

I originally settled on using a rear axle used for the B.O.B. Yak and Ibex trailers (what I used as inspiration) and ordered a couple online. This would allow us to switch the trailer between bikes on the trail and share the load. After they arrived, however, I realized this wouldn't be feasible as the dropouts were too small and, even after enlarging them, they still got in the way of the rear derailleur.

I also tried opening up the angle of the arms of the hitch, but that caused a reduction in the length and the wheel ended up rubbing against the frame. It's never good when that happens.

I've since packaged the axles back up and sent them back to the store.

It finally came to me when I realized I could use the braze-ons to connect the two.

As I said earlier, I cut off the rear triangle of the junker bike as close to the seat-tube as possible and used the pipe bender to bend the bottom portion of the frame so that it was similar in length to the top of the frame. A picture is worth a thousand words here. Please see below.

As you may recall, I originally had three vertical supports for the trailer. I came to the realization that it would be easier to attach the hitch to the trailer if I used the center post as the pivot point. (This appears to be similar to how the B.O.B. trailers are connected as well.)

With that in mind, I cut a length of the seat post (from the junker bike) so that it would fit between the top and bottom frames of the trailer. I then cut two notches on either end of the seat post so that it would be cradled by the top and bottom frames.

I brazed the head tube to the hitch and then slid the seat post into the seat tube. I placed the washers on top of the seat post and fit the assembly between the top and bottom frame. (The washers served as to keep debris out of the down tube as well as to take a little pressure off of the joint between the seat post and the top frame.)

Before attaching the hitch to the trailer, I finalized how to attach it to the bike. (I figured it would be easier to do this before it was attached to the trailer as grinding the hitch by itself would be much easier than grinding it with the trailer attached!) I ended up having to cut off one of the dropouts so that it didn't interfere with my derailleur. I also had to drill the braze-on hole a little larger so that the screws I was using could fit into both the hitch and my bike.

After finishing the hitch/bike connection, I attached the hitch to the trailer by tilting it and sliding the seat post so that the notches were in the center of the trailer (a hammer came in handy here). I used a pair of vise-grips to flatten the notches (again, to increase the surface area with which the brazing material can form a bond) so that they were somewhat snug against the top and bottom frames. I then brazed the top and bottom frames to the seat post (allowing the down tube to pivot around the seat post).

NOTE: Make sure you use strong screws to attach the trailer to the bike. The braze-ons aren't very large so having a screw made of zinc or copper (or other soft metal) might cause failure if the stress from the trailer causes them to sheer off. I splurged on some stainless steel screws and they worked like champs.

Step 9: Bottom Braces and Wheel Guard

At this point, I thought I was done, but a quick test ride gave me second thoughts. Since I was going to use the trailer in the immediate future (and away from civilization), I didn't want anything to break.

In looking at the trailer, I determined that there were basically two catastrophic points of failure: the pivot point and the fork. If either of these broke, the trailer would be no good.

I didn't think there was anything else that I could do to reduce the stress at the pivot point, so I focused on the fork. With the fork attached to the bottom frame in two places (via either side of the three fork supports), the stress would be transferred to the bottom frame in only two places. With that in mind, I decided to spread the stress around by adding a couple of supports that (almost) run the length of the trailer.

I cut two supports, tapered one end on each of them and brazed the tapered ends to the front support (the one with the flattened ends). Once this was in place, I brazed each point where the supports intersected.

Satisfied that this would do the trick, I then finished the last piece of the trailer: the wheel guard. This would serve to keep whatever was on the trailer from rubbing against the wheel. I bent it into a semi-circle, tapered the ends and brazed it on the rear-most fork support at an angle.

Step 10: Storage Bins and Bungee Cords

The last step in creating the trailer was adding the storage capacity. I used three bins for storage: one 56 quart bin and two 16 quart bins. These fit perfectly between the curve of the front of the frame and the rear wheel guard. I used bungees to hold the bins to the trailer. I was somewhat careful not to place the bungees too near any brazing joints, but by the end of the trip, I didn't care where they went. I was pretty sure it was going to make it regardless of where they were.

What I didn't plan on, but found out on the road, was that a six-pack fit nicely between the front of the storage bin and the front of the trailer. Perfect for picnics!

Step 11: DONE! (and Lessons Learned)

Alright, there you have it...a working trailer!

To test it out, I took the two pavers (40 lbs) on the trail for a 15 minute spin. The trail is unpaved that consists of mulch, crushed rock, washout and hardpack dirt. It was the perfect test for what I'd be experiencing on the C&O; Canal towpath. After returning home, I inspected the brazed joints and they seemed to have held up well.

Of course, the real test was day one of the trip. When we pulled into the campsite that first night, I inspected everything and it all looked good. The only problem I encountered on the trail was when the wheel guard bent a little (I still haven't determined exactly how that happened) and started rubbing against the tire. I bent it foward a little bit and that fixed it for the duration of the trip.

The only thing that wasn't done prior to the trip (and still has yet to be done) is paint it. I've decided on painting it yellow and am toying with the idea of adding a cut out of flames for the sidewalls. That would be cool.

Things I would do differently next time:

1. Make sure the fork is straight so the wheel is perpendicular to the ground.

2. Decrease the length of the trailer. Sure, it worked for our trip, but it also allowed us to bring more because the space was there. (I'm not sure how much the gear we took with us weighed, but it was far more than the 40 lbs. the pavers weighed!) It would also (probably) make it easier to handle, especially when going down hills.

3. Adding a way to stand the trailer upright (without having to lean it against something) would be beneficial.

4. While the way I secured it to the bike worked, it wasn't easy to get on and off. I would come up with a quick-release mechanism so that it could switch from one bike to another w/o having to unload the trailer and take the wheel off. (In order to take the screws out of the braze-on, the rear wheel of the bike needed to be moved forward so that the screw wouldn't hit the cogs of the cassette.)

5. When I was stripping the bike, I tossed the sets of bearings in the head tube. I should have kept them as they would've helped decrease the stress at the pivot point by allowing the head tube to move around the seat post in a smoother manner. I'm not sure if it mattered, but it's something to think about in the future.

So....there you have it: a single wheel bike trailer. I hope you enjoy making one as much as I did!

Comments

author
Ⓥince Green made it! (author)2016-04-08

Hi, very interesting tutorial. I'm planning to make a trailer myself.

I still have one thing I'm not sure about though, heights. Is there any mechanism allowing for a height angle difference between the trailer and the bike? Does it rotate where you attach it to the bike? If so, how is this achieved?

author
samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2016-04-08

Unfortunately, I didn't really think out as much as I should have with regards to the height; what I ended up with was the result of a lucky break.

Thinking back on it, though, I imagine if there's a height differential, you could adjust the bend of the arms (on the rear triangle of the junker bike) such that they meet the trailer either higher or lower where it connects. You could also adjust the height of the vertical pieces such that the triangle is still vertical, but the trailer is at the height you want it.

As for rotation, it attaches to the bike at the rear braze-ons and is screwed in, so it's pretty much an extension of the bike frame. It does rotate where it connects with the trailer (see step 8 and the first picture of step 9). I used a length of the seat post (from the junker bike) so that it would fit between the top and bottom frames of the trailer. It's around this post that the head tube pivots. (The seat post is brazed to the trailer; the head tube is not -- it was brazed to the rear triangle and floats on the seat post...if that makes sense.)

Good luck with your build; post pictures when you're done!

author
Ⓥince Green made it! (author)Ⓥince Green2016-04-09

Thanks for the thorough response. I'll definitely report back if I end up making it. I'll be busy for 2-3 months, so it will be a while. I guess that gives me some time to go over the concept and think about possible changes. I still have to find a cheap brazing/welding tool among other things too.
Cheers

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thirst4know made it! (author)2013-09-12

Ahoy me HEARTY! Going to work on my conduit trailer right now. 2 wheeler. I am going to build one like yours next. Thank you for your adventurous spirit.

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jefferywelch made it! (author)2009-08-13

First off have to say thank you for posting this trailer it is great and works. I just finished my trailer this afternoon and I took it for a 7 mile ride with 25 lbs of gear on it for the maiden run and it was on/off road and it held up great. I made a few design changes from the original and have included a few pictures to help. First I did not use a front fork for the rear tire assembly I just bent the conduit to form the rear end. I flattened the ends of the conduit and drilled a 3/8 inch hole to install the 16" tire. The front assemble was the front forks from a little princes bike which is where I also go the tire from. I included the whole neck assemble so that was the bracket to hold the top rail in place and this way could also use the original bearings to keep a very tight and smooth operating system to connect the trailer to the bike. As you can see I used a few braces for the bed of the trailer. The conduit cost $1.65 at home depot and all together the supplies cost a total of 25 dollars. I did go to Craig’s list and get the little princes bike for 7 dollars and a free mountain bike from the local bike store that was being scraped. I really love this trailer and find it very easy to tow and hardly realize it is behind me. Thanks again and hope this helps.

start trailer.jpgtrailer hhitch.jpgFinish trailer.jpeg
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onrust made it! (author)onrust2013-01-21

Clean work. Love your use of an old head tube and goose neck. Post it as a slide show. PLEASE!!!!

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samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2009-09-03

Great job on the trailer, it really looks good! How did you connect the trailer to your bike? I can't tell from the pictures what the hitch looks like that clearly. Could you post a picture or two of the front assembly?

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jefferywelch made it! (author)jefferywelch2009-09-30

Sorry for the long wait on pics been out of town will get to it this weekend and post some more details. So far it is a great trailer and have used it with 50 lbs on it and everything is going great.

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samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2010-03-10

 Any chance on getting the pics of the hitch?  I'm thinking about refining mine and would love to see how your did yours.

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studes4ever made it! (author)studes4ever2009-09-29

Hey there. I really like what you have done with this trailer. I am preparing to build one based on this design. Can you send me any pictures of how you attached the trailer to the bike. I think I have come up with a plan that is both simple and elegant, but I would like to see what you did too.

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hfox made it! (author)2011-05-28

What about arc wielding it.

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dla888 made it! (author)dla8882012-09-02

Sure. You'd probably want to use >1/8" e6011 rod. That conduit tubing is generally pretty thin stuff. Also be sure to grind off the zinc and do your welding in a place with plenty of ventilation. A respirator probably wouldn't be a bad idea either. Best of luck.

author
MountainMommaC made it! (author)2012-04-18

Breathing zinc can actually KILL YOU VERY EASILY.

Please take more precautions!

Ventilation is a MUST.
Having a fan blowing the dust away from you is a MUST.
Knowing what to look for is a MUST.

(If you've been working with zinc like this and develop a cold, go to the hospital THEN. If you wait until it's progressed to more pneumonia-like symptoms you're dead. They can't do anything for you.)



Better yet, don't use galvanized metals!

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jpvskv made it! (author)2012-02-25

I think you did a fine job and saved a bundle of dough too. The only improvement I can think of would be to make the pivot removable (for storage, when not in use) with a extra head pipe brazed to the current one and pipes between connected with removable pins.
Did you paint it since you did the pictures for this instructable?

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mrevesz made it! (author)2011-11-04

I am beginning the project of making one of these myself, I dont think I can mount directly to the frame of the bike because my bike is made of aluminum and would likely break if I were to do so. Im thinking of finding a way to mount to the rear axle but Im forseeing problems with this. Anyone have success mouinting to a rear axle? Also I have quick release....

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godbacon made it! (author)godbacon2011-12-20

this instructable Has an axle mount:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/

https://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/step13/Hitch-creation/

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eagle1o1 made it! (author)2010-05-23

I built a similar trailer for my bike.   My biggest concern was that I wanted the weight to be evenly distributed by the mounting system.  I used an old fork to mount to the bike.   I got hardened nuts that fit the back axle that had a flange on them.  I then got thick walled round steel spacers that the hex of the nut fit tightly into.  On the other end of the spacer another nut fit tightly that had the right threads for a hex head bolt.  I welded (or you could braze) these nuts to the round spacer at both ends.  Then I put a hex head hardened bolt through another round steel spacer whose  outside diameter  is the same as the fork slots.  First you screw these on your back axle in place of your axle nuts.  Then you screw in the hex bolts. (with a washer on the end)  Now you slide the fork slots over the hex bolts.  I drilled holes through the forks to put in quick release pins.  They are not too big or ugly to leave on the bike at all times and it only takes two minutes to attach the trailer. I've gone hundreds of miles and had over 125 lbs on this with no problems.  It also rides very stable this way.  My camera is down, so I'll try to borrow one to take pics and post.  I hope you understand my description  as this is a fast, strong, stable way to mount your trailer.

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mrevesz made it! (author)mrevesz2011-11-04

Hey Eagle, could you explain that a bit clearer? Im trying to build my own single wheel trailer and I am having a hard time figuring out how I will mount it to the bike. I feel like it should mount to the rear axle but I cant see how that is going to happen. I imagine that where you mount the trailer at the rear axle you have to allow the trailer arms to swing up or down so that your trailer is not completely fixed on the horizontal axis. otherwise if your back bike wheel were to travel over a dip in the road it would be airborn supported by the front wheel of your bike and the back wheel of your trailer(though that is unlikely as the weight of your body would likely cause something to break or move in an unwanted way) So you see what I mean I hope, how do I overcome that problem? - mattrevesz@msn.com

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sally300 made it! (author)2011-09-14

that is really funny i cant amagen riding that thing

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ddarkeststar made it! (author)2011-03-02

I'm inspired.
Knowing that you have a similar kind of skill base as I do regarding brazing and the like and then seeing the result of your efforts I feel very confident that I could recreate this excellent design.
Thanks a lot for posting.

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thepelton made it! (author)2010-06-01

How much would it cost to hire someone to do the brazing, as I don't have the equipment?

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pickford78 made it! (author)pickford782011-02-16

It would cost more than to buy the trailer pre made. I suggest looking at renting a welder from a local tool rental shop. Maybe look at borrowing a welder from a friend.

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garrettg84 made it! (author)garrettg842011-02-18

You might consider buying a brazing torch. You can get a torch for less than you can rent equipment. One of the off the shelf, $20 Can+Torch combos should do you fine.

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bearcatsandor made it! (author)2009-09-05

How hard would it be/what changes would you have to make to add a shock to it (like a Fox float)? Do you think that wold be worth it? If things tend to rattle around a bit, would that keep more fragile things safe? I'd use mine for transporting computers around. Thanks so much for the idea!

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pickford78 made it! (author)pickford782011-02-16

I'd suggest putting springs in the 4 contact points (the forks and where it attaches to the bike) This could be welded or clamped, I suggest welding in reversed polarity to keep the heat off the spring.

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spangler58 made it! (author)2010-06-09

hey can you build me one please i have looking and trying to make one but i dont know how

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pickford78 made it! (author)pickford782011-02-16

Take Metal Shop in school, they will teach you how to do this stuff.

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norton220 made it! (author)2010-10-08

just my opinion but instead of have to lean it against something, why dont you put a kickstand on the trailer? or something similar.

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santacruzsl52 made it! (author)2010-03-02

 Sweet! thanks, i was trying to figure out how to attach my trailer to my bike.My first thought was the same as yours, but i looked at pictures and saw the bob trailers had a lockpin setup. So then i though of attaching it to the  rack mount, but the drop outs were in the way, but seeing now that you did it and it worked fine ill be sure to do that tommorow! Ill send you a picture of my finished trailer if your interested, not as nice as yours but I also just rigged it together from a old bike frame and an old aluminum cot. Its strong though!

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samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2010-03-10

 There's another single-wheeled trailer with a metal plate that connects to the frame.  The hitch then connects to the metal plate.  This looks like the best way of doing it so that you don't have to worry about grinding your cassette should the screw come loose.

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mulligan made it! (author)2009-10-09

if i useda 26 inch (or what ever it is) wheel for the back would that work?? its a standard size i think?

also was wondering if it will feel liek alot on there, and up hills is it hard or good?

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samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2010-03-10

 Sorry about the delayed response...I must've missed this notice.

Anyway, if you use a 26" wheel, you'll need to adjust the fork in such a way so that the trailer is still parallel to the ground.  While you *could* roll with a tilted trailer, running it parallel is probably better.

As for going up hills, they weren't a problem as long as you had the speed, were in the right gear and didn't bonk halfway up. 

Going downhill wasn't too bad as long as you kept the bike somewhat slow for better control.

The worst handling was in the mud.  The front tire hit the mud, causing the bike to slow down.  The trailer's momentum then pushed forward, causing a the bike to feel squishy.  After a few times, I learned to peddle through the mud vs. coasting.  That helped.

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M4industries made it! (author)2009-10-25

AAAHHHH!

No shop class at my school!

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cclev1967 made it! (author)2009-07-26

awesome build, this is exactly the type of trailer i want to build. even unpainted it looks great. thanks for sharing, if it didnt fall apart with all you had packed on it, then id have to say you did something right, im going to start building mine today. and i want to eventually incorporate a way for it to haul a kayak on it. agian thanks for the great info on your trailer.

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samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2009-09-03

thanks for the kudos...how did yours come out? (like jeffreywelch's I hope!)

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cdltpx made it! (author)2009-08-07

I wish to build a trailer too but I want to build for one task the collection of AL cans to transport to point of sale. A dual frame that is collapseable so when trailer is empty is will have a low drag. Have the system to fit the bags to make transfer at POS a breeze. Not everyone wants to be involved in this but rather than go to a gym to loose my 100 lbs I wish to do something that will pay me back with $ something that has more than one objective. I use to like to ride my bike but as a trucker the pounds have accumulated over the years I want this to change with in a year. I like your design it works well all you need to do is rig dual kick stands so you can stop your bike on the plains. Went to a police auction and bought so much bike crap it needs to be fashioned to other things. I have quite a few bikes that are ready roll they need to get cable replaced and the usual adjustments but it would not kill me to augment one for this task. I could have my good MB and factory AL trailer for grocery trips and the other home made and yackydy bike for industrial use. Great for fishing too who wants to get their food grade trailer nasty.

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k_man93 made it! (author)2009-07-29

would it be possible to avoid all of this and use some other sort of structural support? I know that conduit is probably the most sturdy choice, but I cannot braze it because i do not have immediate access to a torch... any suggestions?

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runcio made it! (author)2009-07-21

Great project! Can you drive any passenger in bike trailer, example your wife!? How kg you can drive in your trailer, max kg!?!

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samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2009-07-22

lol -- I don't think I'd want to carry a person back there -- for their safety and mine! When we did the C&O; trip, I started with about 70 lbs or so of gear. We added some as the trip went on (offloading from the panniers due to too many flats), but we also ate/drank some of the load. I've never tested it to the point of failure, so I can't say what the max would be. I don't think I'd want to put much more than 75 lbs on it.

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drgnmstr69 made it! (author)2009-06-27

Great idea for a low cost trailer.With the problem with thw zinc on the condiut,you can use vinegar to remove the zinc from pipe so that you don't have to worry about the fumes.What about a floor for the trailer like the ones on other trailers?It does look it will hold up really well.Great job.

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samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2009-06-27

I was thinking about using a perforated metal sheet, but after seeing the price at Lowes, decided against it (it ran from $25 - $50 for what I would need). If I had some extra, I might have gone that route, but the bins do the trick (as well as keep their contents out of the elements). Thanks for the vinegar tip; I didn't know that and will have to keep it in mind.

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jpvskv made it! (author)2009-04-20

Great Instructable! A fix for the rear wheel guard would be to braze two supports between the guard and each of the forks.
An alternative for the connection to the bike would be to go up and over the rear bike wheel up to the seat post as seen on the Atomic Zombie site here: http://www.atomiczombie.com/product-cyclebully.htm You could also do a U joint from the seat post from a block of metal.
One last suggestion: Use a 2x6 the width of the trailer and stood on end for support of the trailer/bike so you don't have to lean it up against anything at all.

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samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2009-04-23

I think I'm going to stick with connection I've got now (e.g., through the braze-on points) vs. trying to jimmy rig it to connect elsewhere. As for the 2x6, that would work, but I've decided to create a trapezoid-shaped kickstand out of conduit and attach it to the first horizontal spar via a pair of hinges, if only to keep the materials in the same family.

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UC FATHER TIME made it! (author)UC FATHER TIME2009-06-11

You could make a sort of frame stand like a motor cycle.Put it near the trailer wheel and use a cable to actuate it,just stop reach down grab a handle pull to contact the frame stand to the ground and push the bike back. And an extention spring holds it up when not in use.

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jpvskv made it! (author)2009-04-20

Your first picture in the intro shows the fork with the bend of the fork facing away from the road surface. I would turn that around so that the bend faces down and that helps put gravity in your favor. It looks like you can do that by the way you assembled it. I am working with conduit too. I use a 110 volt welder to build a seat for a recumbent I built. I suggest using a fan or working in a breeze. Wearing a welding helmet helped prevent me from inhaling any toxins, thank God.

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samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2009-04-23

Regarding the front fork, I tried it that way (e.g., with the fork pointing down), but it caused the trailer to ride at a funny angle. If you look in the 2nd picture in step 11, you can see how having it pointing up lends to an even trailer. In addition to the fan I had blowing across the work space, I also had both garage doors open and the side door open as well to create a good cross breeze.

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PlaidCat made it! (author)2009-04-19

Great instructions and pictures! I was thinking maybe the connection bar from a baby tow trailer might work?

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rangeside made it! (author)2009-04-03

Nice build. I'm looking at doing almost exactly what you've done here, keeping your building changes in mind (ie thing i would do differently next time) I'm wondering how its holding up lately? The design and support point seem to take all the directional stresses and forces into account (I'm no engineer myself) But sometimes time takes advantage and points out structural flaws. Your instructions were really good. Thanks for taking the time to share with everyone! I'm planning to do the same, but maybe on the second build after I figure out if and where it might break. Any other suggestions would be great, Again much appreciated for the share of experience and knowledge with this build. Happy trailing

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samfelis made it! (author)samfelis2009-04-03

I'd have to agree w/ you regarding the directional stresses (but then again, I'm no engineer either) but, so far at least, time hasn't shown any flaws. (Of course, I also haven't subjected it to anywhere near as much stress as I did on the trip.) Like I've said elsewhere, I need to work on a better connection between the bike and the trailer. A couple of nice to haves would be a stand of some sort so it can stand up on its own (vs. having to lean it -- and the bike -- against a post or something similar), a fender (to keep the top of the pack somewhat clean) and some kind of lighting for folks to better see it -- either reflective tape or real, honest to goodness lights. That and a decent paint job. Even a grey primer would look better than what it does now. ;-)

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yanggers made it! (author)yanggers2009-04-13

great creation and great 'structable! The whole thing looks fun to build and looks strong like a tank. One suggestion, really just something to keep in mind for projects to come, is to use triangular geometry (like the bike frame itself!) on stress points.

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