I was looking at getting a BOB Ibex trailer for hauling all of my trail building and maintenance tools out to the trails because I'm sick of walking them in. I figured I would give a go at building my own, so here is my attempt.
I believe the BOB trailers are very well designed, particularly the patented attachment method, so I didn't stray to far from their design.
I've included photo of the BOB Ibex trailer for comparison.
I believe the BOB trailers are very well designed, particularly the patented attachment method, so I didn't stray to far from their design.
I've included photo of the BOB Ibex trailer for comparison.
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Signing UpStep 1: Components and materials
I started by collecting the primary components so that I could do my layout around those.
Wheel: I was thinking of going with a 20" bmx wheel, but ended up using a 16" wheel like the BOB trailers. I found a few used kids bikes with 16" wheels, but went out and bought a new one for this build.
Shock: I found a coil rear bike shock on ebay from a moped dealer for about $13 including shipping. Would have liked to use an air shock, but they were more costly. I found some 1/2" axle bolts at my local Ace hardware store along with some nylon spacers.
Swingarm and rear triangle: I used an old BMX fork I had lying around as the swingarm for the rear wheel. The pivot is a steel bike hub the local bike shop gave me. Another fork was used for the vertical part of the rear triangle.
Frame: The frame is fabricated from 1/2" EMT (electrical metal tubing). 10' lengths from Home Depot cost $2 each. I used 4 with some waste and leftovers. CAUTIONARY NOTE: I use a flap wheel to remove galvanizing from the EMT before welding.
Miscellaneous: I used various pieces of steel plate (1/4" and 1/8") and steel angle and channel I had lying around from previous projects. Old spokes are used as retaining pins. Also used some scrap 1" EMT. Bottom was made from expanded steel.
BOB quick-release axle: This is the key to the Bob patented bike attachment. I probably could have made something similar, but I knew this was tried and tested. I got mine from Amazon for $26. There is a different version for use on bikes with solid rear axles.
Wheel: I was thinking of going with a 20" bmx wheel, but ended up using a 16" wheel like the BOB trailers. I found a few used kids bikes with 16" wheels, but went out and bought a new one for this build.
Shock: I found a coil rear bike shock on ebay from a moped dealer for about $13 including shipping. Would have liked to use an air shock, but they were more costly. I found some 1/2" axle bolts at my local Ace hardware store along with some nylon spacers.
Swingarm and rear triangle: I used an old BMX fork I had lying around as the swingarm for the rear wheel. The pivot is a steel bike hub the local bike shop gave me. Another fork was used for the vertical part of the rear triangle.
Frame: The frame is fabricated from 1/2" EMT (electrical metal tubing). 10' lengths from Home Depot cost $2 each. I used 4 with some waste and leftovers. CAUTIONARY NOTE: I use a flap wheel to remove galvanizing from the EMT before welding.
Miscellaneous: I used various pieces of steel plate (1/4" and 1/8") and steel angle and channel I had lying around from previous projects. Old spokes are used as retaining pins. Also used some scrap 1" EMT. Bottom was made from expanded steel.
BOB quick-release axle: This is the key to the Bob patented bike attachment. I probably could have made something similar, but I knew this was tried and tested. I got mine from Amazon for $26. There is a different version for use on bikes with solid rear axles.
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http://www.amazon.com/BOB-Quick-Release-126Mm-140Mm/dp/B000RH94TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1356953249&sr=8-1&keywords=bob+trailer+quick
The dropouts fit onto the notches on the ends of the quick-release.
It extends out farther than a standard axle and has a groove that the dropout fits onto.
The make a version for solid axle wheels if you don't have quick-release wheels.
I will add photo and link to this item.
I have a doubt. Forgive me if you explained it yet, since I do not speak English I struggle to read the entire text. In the images I am concerned with the point marked in red in the attached photo. If the union is solid, you could have problems crossing a speed bump or a small hillock. The rear suspension is very good to absorb unevenness in the road, but not a sudden level change.
OOPS, I can't upload the image, the editor does not allows to do it now. Well, I will try to explain: in you first and last photos, the entire trailer seems be solidly attached to the bicycle. I think it needs a vertical movement in that site.
"The dropout connection to the special Bob quick-release axle skewer allows the trailer to pivot in the up/down direction around the bicycle's rear axle."