I was looking at getting a BOB Ibex trailer for hauling all of my trail building and maintenance tools out to the trails because I'm sick of walking them in. I figured I would give a go at building my own, so here is my attempt.
I believe the BOB trailers are very well designed, particularly the patented attachment method, so I didn't stray to far from their design.

I've included  photo of the BOB Ibex trailer for comparison.

Step 1: Components and Materials

I started by collecting the primary components so that I could do my layout around those.

Wheel: I was thinking of going with a 20" bmx wheel, but ended up using a 16" wheel like the BOB trailers. I found a few used kids bikes with 16" wheels, but went out and bought a new one for this build.

Shock: I found a coil rear bike shock on ebay from a moped dealer for about $13 including shipping. Would have liked to use an air shock, but they were more costly. I found some 1/2" axle bolts at my local Ace hardware store along with some nylon spacers.

Swingarm and rear triangle: I used an old BMX fork I had lying around as the swingarm for the rear wheel. The pivot is a steel bike hub the local bike shop gave me. Another fork was used for the vertical part of the rear triangle.

Frame: The frame is fabricated from 1/2" EMT (electrical metal tubing). 10' lengths from Home Depot cost $2 each. I used 4 with some waste and leftovers. CAUTIONARY NOTE: I use a flap wheel to remove galvanizing from the EMT before welding.

Miscellaneous: I used various pieces of steel plate (1/4" and 1/8") and steel angle and channel I had lying around from previous projects. Old spokes are used as retaining pins. Also used some scrap 1" EMT. Bottom was made from expanded steel.

BOB quick-release axle: This is the key to the Bob patented bike attachment. I probably could have made something similar, but I knew this was tried and tested. I got mine from Amazon for $26. There is a different version for use on bikes with solid rear axles.
<p>This project is very well executed.</p><p>I'd like to give it a shot, but I've never welded, and my joining experience is limited to a bit of soldering. If I keep this cheap enough to warrant the time investment, it seems like I'm best off either brazing with a mapp torch or picking up a cheap MIG welder. Would brazing suffice, particularly at the suspension joints?</p>
I don't know anything about brazing. I only have rudimentary self-taught welding skills. Not pretty, but the welds hold up good enough.
Grt thx
<p>I think I have a winter project now, I always thought this was possible. THANKS!!</p>
You have forgot the brake!
Bike has sufficient brakes. Trailer does not need them.
You are forget the brake! :)
Excelente proyecto !!
Excellent design, thank you. I don't think I read the final dimensions, do you mind telling me the width and length of the carrying bed? <br>
Inside dimensions are 30&quot; long at the center and 21&quot; wide
This is cool :)
Can you tell me how your trailer's fork dropouts are connected to the bicycle's chainstays?? I see the purpose of the retaining pin, but can't make sense of the dropout. I assume the dropout just sets on the axle shaft's threads??
The instructable has now been updated to show a photo of the BOB quick-release axle and describe the dropout attachment.<br>http://www.amazon.com/BOB-Quick-Release-126Mm-140Mm/dp/B000RH94TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1356953249&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=bob+trailer+quick<br>The dropouts fit onto the notches on the ends of the quick-release.
I guess I should have included a photo of the special quick-release skewer/axle that I mention.<br>It extends out farther than a standard axle and has a groove that the dropout fits onto.<br>The make a version for solid axle wheels if you don't have quick-release wheels.<br>I will add photo and link to this item.
Excellent design, very well worked, congratulations. <br> <br>I have a doubt. Forgive me if you explained it yet, since I do not speak English I struggle to read the entire text. In the images I am concerned with the point marked in red in the attached photo. If the union is solid, you could have problems crossing a speed bump or a small hillock. The rear suspension is very good to absorb unevenness in the road, but not a sudden level change. <br> <br>OOPS, I can't upload the image, the editor does not allows to do it now. Well, I will try to explain: in you first and last photos, the entire trailer seems be solidly attached to the bicycle. I think it needs a vertical movement in that site.
You may have missed it in step 4 where I note: <br>&quot;The dropout connection to the special Bob quick-release axle skewer allows the trailer to pivot in the up/down direction around the bicycle's rear axle.&quot;
OK, thanks, I see that now. Pardon!

About This Instructable




Bio: Architect
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