Step 5:

To make sure this simple thing that'll hold all of your precious electronics stays upright, you'll probably need a stand. It is a simple design, but there are some complicated cuts therein. First, we mark our boards.

Take the 2  2x4x18" s and a protractor. Lie them on their thin edge and measure 2 1/2" down from the 'top.' Then, below that mark, measure another 1 1/2" and mark. These are the starting points for your cuts.

Turn the boards 45 (make sure you really turn one board 135 degrees, so the stand is symmetrical) using those marks as axis (Axises? Axii?) and mark the boards in a straight line for the cuts.

These will be your mounting notches. Again, make sure those marks are parallel on the each board, but when the boards are next to each other, the sets of marks are perpendicular.

Flip the boards on their fat sides again, but make sure those marks you just made are facing you. Measure 2 1/2" into the width of the boards, and mark a long line. This will be your 'stop' line.

Finally, with the 2x4x18's on their thin side, measure a 45 degree angle on the short-side corner opposite the marks you made for your notch. The resulting line should be one that runs perfectly perpendicular to your notch lines.

Now on the 2x4x6's, mark the boards on their thin side at 2" and 3 1/2." Then, flip it on the fat side and mark a stop line again on 2 1/2."

That was a lot of lines and marking. I'm sorry. Now we play with power tools again, I promise.
Nice simple design, I think I may build something similar. Good job!
This is a VERY good design, so good I intend to steal it. However, you do have room for improvement in the implementation.<br> <br> You said that the structure is basically a picnic table turned sideways which is elegant but you forgot that now the most of the force vectors are at 90 degrees to the picnic table and you didn't adjust accordingly.<br> <br> (1) The 2x6 crosspieces are overkill. Unless done for aesthetics, they won't add much to the structure. They are used in picnic tables to provide a wide flat strong surface but now you are using them edge on so everything below an inch or so is a structural waste.&nbsp;<br> <br> You won't be hanging anything heavy enough to come close to stressing the beams and they add a lot of unnecessary weight. I think 3/4 inch (750 mil) birch plywood would work just as well with a stiffener strip on the backside. It would also look better.<br> <br> (2) The weak point in the design is the #12 screws used to secure the 2x6's to the 2x4. While such screws would work great foe holding down a picnic table top, they are to small to safely support a vertical/shearing weight. All the weight of the structure is now concentrated on a very small area of bottom of the screw so the screws will gradually cut into the wood and loosen. Retightening them in the same hole will just aggregate the problem. They may also simple shear off is suddenly stressed.&nbsp;<br> <br> Technically speaking, screws are not intended to be used to resist a shearing force because they are to hard and brittle. Instead, nails are the preferred solution because nails are relative soft and will gently bend instead of breaking.&nbsp;<br> <br> However, nobody uses nails much anymore because they aren't convenient or take easily apart. In this case I recommend you use 1/4 inch (6.35 mil) x 3 inch (76.2 mil) lag screws (or larger).<br> <br> Even better, use hardwood dowels. Screw everything together like you have it now but then remove the top screw at every join and drill out a hole to take a 3/4 dowel. Drive the dowel in snuggly and know the vertical shearing force is spread out over the bottom surface area of the dowel instead of being concentrated on the screw. The remaining screw keeps the boards clamped together in the horizontal plane.&nbsp;<br> <br> 3) I might have missed it but it looks like you have no racking support. Racking is the left or rich motion of a square frame that pivots on the corners turning a rectangle into a trapezoid. This will stress your joints and eventually cause them to snap or rotate and collapse.&nbsp;<br> <br> You need a cross piece running from the back top to the back bottom of the vertical 2x4s to prevent them moving left or right. You could also use a sheet of hardboard across the entire back (as commonly seen in bookcases.)<br> <br> <br>
Very Nice !&hellip;
That's a nice looking design.<br><br>I'm not 100% sure I could duplicate that following your instructions though. Maybe add a few more photos from different angles so you can see how everything fits together.
Thanks for the design props!<br><br>I did have a hard time taking photos of this, as I had no camera man and only a puny phone cam on my thunderbolt. I wish I had taken more photos, but I got wrapped up in the building it and often forgot. I do plan on taking detailed retrospect pics of the stop/lock system and the stand after the furniture challenge is completely done on the off chance people like this, but until then I can't edit it.<br><br>Are there other areas that you think need more detailed pics?

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