Introduction: Slatts Rescue Belt V2.0 - Improved Non-skew Version

Picture of Slatts Rescue Belt V2.0 - Improved Non-skew Version

This instructable shows how to make an improved version of Slatts rescue belt (for the original, see the very good instuctable "How to make a paracord rescue belt" by stuwegie). I really like the Slatts rescue belt (and made a few of them), because you do not need a rig to make them, so you could easiely carry it in smalll bag and proceed wherever you find the time to do so (in the train, at the airport - I did my last belt in the hospital waiting in delivery when my wife gave birth to our son).

A disadvantage of the original version of Slatts rescue belt with side release buckle (as described by stuwegie) is, that you could not adapt it in length (longer after all the good Christmas food and sweets. shorter after a one week's hike). It also tends to skew/twist to one side, so the final belt does not look straight.

The first disadvantage can be circumvented by using a belt-buckle with (one or two) pin(s). Just make sure that the pins have no sharp edges that will damage the paracord over time.

The skew-issue is the reason why I modified the starting of Slatts rescue belt and is described in detail in the following. It results in a very nice, straight belt that does not tend to twist to either side. It also gives the belt a nice edge when finishing it.

Materials:

  1. Paracord (I use 100ft / about 31meters (the standard length that costs less than 4€ (for the whole 100ft.!) at aliexpress.com), which is just enough for my waist doing a nice 6-loop-belt)
  2. Belt buckle with one or two pin(s) -any old buckle will do, mine is a shiny new Titanium buckle I found on amazon for less than 15€
  3. A paracord needle will help finishing the belt, as well as scissors/knife and a lighter.

Step 1: How to Start

Picture of How to Start

Originally, you would place the desired number of loops around the buckle and the start passing a loop of the working end through all of these loops (please see the original description mentioned above for more details, if required). But not in this version!

Make only one turn around the buckle, as shon in the first photo, so you have about one feet of paracord as the short, standing part (the piece at the bottom left in the photo was a bit too short when taking the photo, so I had to redo it later in the process) and all the rest as working end (on the upper right in the photo). Then pass a loop of the WORKING end through this first turn and tighten it (as shown in photos two and three).

Congratulation - you just finished the first step towards your new belt!

Step 2: 2nd Step - a Further Loop

Picture of 2nd Step - a Further Loop

Now make a further turn with the one feet STANDING part (first photo). Then make a loop in the WORKING end and pass it through: First through the new turn you just made with the standing part and then through the outer (on the photos: upper) loop from Step one (second photo).

If unsure from which side to pass through the loop from Step one, twist it a bit counter-clockwise (and do so with all loops when making this belt), the pass the working end loop through. Doing so give your belt a nice, regular appearance. You could, however, although experiment with twisting it once clockwise and once counter-clockwise to make your belt looking different. I'm not sure about how the result will look like, - post a photo in the comments if you did!

Now thighten the loops from left to right towards the working end. Just tighten it enough so you could still pull through the next loops.

You will mention that, because of the loops, the cord becomes twisted. It is, therefore, important to untwist it when tightening. Otherwise, the belt may not look that nice and regular when finished.

Step 3: Proceed Further ...

Picture of Proceed Further ...

Perhaps you can yet imagine how to go on:

A futher, third, turn by the short, STANDING part around the buckle and pulling out a loop in the working part just finished (first photo). Then pass through another loop of the WORKING part, tighten and untwist it (second photo).

Then another turn of the STANDING part, pulling out a loop in the working part ... (third photo).

Depending on how much loops you want to make in one row, you should continue to make the turns of the standing part on the other side of the buckle-pin after half of these loops:

I did six loops in a row, so after three turns I passed the short standing end to the right sde of the buckle (as shown in the third photo) for another three turns (in the following steps).

Just as measurement example (depending much on how much you tighten the cord), my six loops in a row result in a belt being little more than 4cm wide and 120cm long (made of 100ft. paracord).

Step 4: ... and Further

Picture of ... and Further

After further turns and loops, the second photo above shows six loops the loop in WORKING part has to go through in the next step (third photo). This is, where the difference between the original version of Slatts rescue belt and my version ends. You can now fasten the short STANDING part of the cord (fourth photo, what to do with this, see below) and continue as known:

  1. pull out the loops,
  2. turn them slightly counterclockwise,
  3. make a loop in the WORKING end of the cord and pass it through all loops,
  4. tighten and untwist the cord.

Once you have reached the end (or better 1/2 feet before the end) of the cord in the WORKING part, pull out a last row of loops and pass through the entire rest of the WORKING end (instead of making a loop in the working end and passing through only that loop). As this belt is not yet finished, I could not (yet) provide photos of this step but will update it once I'm there. Then put a paracord needle on the end of the cord and pull it through the weaving on the inner side of the belt (where it could not be seen).

With respect to the short rest of the STANDING part knotted to the buckle:

Put a paracord needle on that end, too, and pass it once through to the other side of the belt. You could then either cut and melt it or use it to form a big loop on the front side of the belt to hold the end of the belt after passing through the buckle.

Final note:

As English is not my mother tounge, there might be spelling or grammar mistakes in the text above. But as I'm generous - if you find any mistakes you are free to keep them ;-)

Comments

WilliamN57 (author)2016-05-30

Ways to make this great survival belt even better.

I am definitely a fan of wire saws (the good quality ones that are multi-stranded and have swivels). They are light weight, compact, and much more efficient than an axe. So here is a way to include a wire saw in your survival belt.

Start making the belt as described in this instructable. After you have several inches of belt woven, you are ready to start including the wire saw. Prepare the wire saw as follows. Remove the large rings (typically split rings for holding keys). Trim a piece of 1/4" diameter heat shrink tubing to fit the length of your wire saw and slide it over the entire length of the saw. (You can get three foot lengths of shrink tubing at your local electronic components store for about $2.) Using a heat gun, lighter or candle, shrink the tubing as much as you can without scorching it. The tubing will safely cover the saw without damaging it and simultaneously protect the paracord from getting chafed by the saw. Now lay the tubing-covered saw on your belt and weave two rows across the top of it, followed by two rows that cross under it. Continue weaving your belt while alternating two rows above the saw and two rows under the saw. When you get to the end of the saw, just finish weaving the belt to the length you want. The saw is captured in the belt and won't go anywhere. If you ever need to deploy the paracord from your belt, the presence of the saw will not interfere at all. The saw will simply drop off the belt as it unravels.

If you want to include the large rings that came with the saw, attach them to the belt by weaving a couple of stitches through each one as you weave the belt where the saw isn't located.

You can also stick a ferro rod through a row of loops near one end (or each end) of the belt before you tighten them. Use a ferro rod with a hole in one end and tie a small cord or thong through the hole and the belt to ensure the ferro rod never slips out accidentally. If you use 100% cotton string for this, you can unravel the string and fuzz it up to use as tinder.

neodymium (author)2016-05-18

I'm not sure why this would keep it from skewing. I'm about 75% done making a belt using this starting method (although four loops wide, not six), and it's still curling like a banana to one side.

Marianne818 (author)2016-02-18

I have my Pop's old buckle from one of his belts. This is a great way to make good use of it. Thank you!

mole1 (author)2016-02-17

Aha! Knew I was saving that nice buckle for something. This looks like fun. Thanks for posting it!

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