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We finally got our back patio built and all that was missing was a table. Rather than spending a boat-load of money on one that kinda worked for us, I decided to just build one. So here we are. I actually used two picnic table Instructables as my sources and just modified them to fit my needs. The first one had the idea of detached benches that I really liked. The second one added a couple simple design elements that were real sleek. With elements from both of these, I set out to create a combination of the two. I intend to show you the process of how I constructed mine rather than the precise measurements of each cut. I am an amateur woodworker with only common sense and some basic tools. I will also show you some things that I learned from. You should take this template and make your own creation. For even more detailed pics, just click the i in the upper left hand corner of any photo. Feel free to comment, and if you have any questions I'll try my best to answer them. A big thanks to the Instructables community for this project. Below is a video of how much wobble this table has. I really think there should be more of these demos for people to see how to improve others' designs. Good Luck!!
My table is 8ft. long. Feel free to adjust to your preference. Also of note, the material list below is what I used, not necessarily what I would recommend. For example, my table legs are 2x4s, but I recommend you use 2x6s to prevent some wobbling. I'll let you know if I recommend something over what I used.
Tools:
-tape measure
-square
-small spacer (about 1/4" - 1/2" wide)
-skil saw (miter saw recommended, but I already had a skil saw)
-pencil
-drill
-5/16" drill bit (at least 6" long)
-7/8" drill bit
-hammer
-wood chisel
-hacksaw
-wood glue
-clamps (helpful if working alone)
-sandpaper (belt sander recommended) 40-50 grit and 120 grit
-1/2" wrench and 1/2" ratchet
-small pressurized sprayer (for the sealer/stain)
-wide (2") foam brush
-damp cloth
Materials:
-22 Cedar 2x4x8
-2 Cedar 2x6x8
-2 lbs. 2" tan deck screws
-16 Fully threaded 5/16-18 bolts (5 1/2" long)
-16 Fully threaded 5/16-18 bolts (1 1/2" long)
-64 5/16" washers
-stain/sealer (optional, but recommended)
What COULD minimize the damage to some extent, is to try and steam the dents out. Put a WET rag over the dents and, with an electric cloths-iron, "steam" the damage. Unless you have some broken fibers due to the hammering, quite a lot (if not all) of the dents will be ironed out. If not, at least they should be less visible.
Since you have a circular saw, you could also simplify your hacksawing and chiseling a bit. Set the circular saw to the depth of the notch, and make careful pass at the edges of the slot. Then make several cuts between these outer cuts. For your 2x4, you would make about 6-10 passes between the outer slits. somewhere around 1/4" apart. When you are done it will look like a comb (see picture) Just knock out these small parts with a hammer, and then clean up the bottom with our chisel.
The end boards was the part i was most interested in, I was disappointed to find that was the only part that wasn't covered... I would love to know more about how to do that.
Check out the photos (esp 3 and 4) in Step 2. I found it waaaay easier to make the 45° cuts before you install the support beams underneath the table/bench. Measuring is super critical at this stage. I basically just pre-set two screws in each side of the end board and put wood glue on both sides. One screw in each side did the trick for me. I was concerned that it might not be strong enough, but I'm happy to report that it's very strong. The wood glue far exceeded my expectations. Hooray for glue! Some additional pics attached here.
Excellent. Thanks for the extra photos, and I DID miss the two photos you pointed out. I would be worried that that wouldn't work, but then I know how darn strong wood glue is, so I am glad it did.
NICE JOB!!!!!!!! couple comments. because of the inherent strength of a lap joint in the table x brace it's really not necessary to lag bolt the x. couple screws and some glue will work just fine (glue does all the work, the screws just hold the wood together till the glue dries). all the stress of the joint is in the screws going into the braces. how did you attach the end boards? it looks like the middle boards are cut short so the end board is only attached at the miters? You may need to add a support board underneath. the end boards typically take a lot of abuse from kids climbing on it and from moving the table around.
I am planning on building one soon. Great resource!!!
Thanks
What COULD minimize the damage to some extent, is to try and steam the dents out. Put a WET rag over the dents and, with an electric cloths-iron, "steam" the damage. Unless you have some broken fibers due to the hammering, quite a lot (if not all) of the dents will be ironed out. If not, at least they should be less visible.
It'll save you some heavy chiseling.
Otherwise great instructable.
I love this table. You did a great job.
Nice photographic progression, with excellent notes. Thanks.
couple comments. because of the inherent strength of a lap joint in the table x brace it's really not necessary to lag bolt the x. couple screws and some glue will work just fine (glue does all the work, the screws just hold the wood together till the glue dries). all the stress of the joint is in the screws going into the braces.
how did you attach the end boards? it looks like the middle boards are cut short so the end board is only attached at the miters? You may need to add a support board underneath. the end boards typically take a lot of abuse from kids climbing on it and from moving the table around.