Step 3: Sleeve Cords

For the two shorter sleeves, you can push the wire through, for the most part.

The longer piece can be more quickly done by hitching the cord to the inner strand(s) you saved, and pulling most of it through.

Unfortunately I haven't bothered to research the best way to do this without the temporary joint of old gut and new gut at some point breaking apart.  I just use tape, and when it comes out alone I push the remaining cord through using peristaltic action: push the tip forward a tiny bit to form a compression of sleeve while squeezing behind the tip, then squeeze the sleeve around tip, and pull the compressed sleeve backward, undoing the compression (repeat). It takes a while if you didn't get most of it already pulled through.

Once you've sleeved them, use some heatshrink tube on the ends of the ear units and plug to tidy things up.
Note you may need to hold the paracord ends underneath in place using electrical tape if the design flares out and will not accommodate heatshrink without it slipping off.

Addendum 2010 06 22
Anyone want to experiment with also feeding a semi-rigid monofilament/fishing line through? I imagine that knot resistance could increase by doing so.
<p>Thanks for making this Instructable. Great Job excent writing.</p><p>I'll share with my friends.</p>
<p>Do you have any recommendation for my bluetooth heaphone? My Jaybird bluebuds X cable got damaged. I'm afraid to cut it and make it worse than it already is. So is it possible to fix it using paracord? or using Heat Shrink Tubes?</p>
<p>Thanks for this instructable - what a great idea. I had this pair of Bose/earbuds with the black/white cable, notorious for crumbling off. In this case the cable itself was still working and I didn't want to risk re-soldering but instead I just sewed a strip of cloth around (beforehand I supported open segments of wire with electrical tape, sewed a thicker strip then cut it down). It isn't as beautiful as yours but it feels great and prevented a risky reconstruction of this complex cable (this cable has 5+ wires).</p>
<p>genius! </p>
<p>Snapped my ear phone wire. Good opportunity to upgrade instead of just fix them.</p>
Instead of clipping the wire to your shirt, you could run the wire down the inside of your shirt.
Awesome man! I ended up doing this to mine this week.
How did you get the paracord around that big end plug. <br>I want to order nice cable and sheath them but the cord diameter has got me worried about getting it on at all.
These headphones came with a 3m long cable and a 6.5mm jack, the first step for me was to cut the cable down to 1.5m and attach a 3.5mm jack. I added the cord while the jack was off the cord.<br>Good luck with your project!
Very cool idea. What diameter paracord did you use?
I sleeve cables all the time for work and have found the best way to terminate the ends of the sleeving is to use adhesive lined heat shrink. I use 3:1 ratio heatshrink, select a size that is just large enough to fit on or you can strech it a bit if needed with some long needle nose pliers. This way you get a nice tight fitting heat shrink and the sleeving is bonded to the wire when you overlap it.
Another easy way to do this is to push the paracord onto a straw and bunch it up slightly then pass the wire through the straw and push the paracord off the straw onto the wire once you reached the end of the wire... if that makes any sense...
This is a really cool idea. I like it a lot. I want to try this out and see if I can do it as well. I got most of the tools/materials and I had to order the others. I ordered the rest of the tools, <a href="http://fluorotherm.com/Default.asp">heat exchangers</a>, some tubing and more during the process of getting the tools so that's always a plus. Thanks again!
you can actually fully submerge headphones in distilled water and then clean the paracord... as long as you let them dry well they still work... I really like the idea of the shrink tubeing.... and if you want the headphones to not react to the paracord filtering the wind, try wrapping them in electrical tape before sleeving them... thats the only solution i have
Or you could save yourself a lot of time and effort by getting a pair that already has a cloth or nylon cord, such as the Lenntek Sonix or Sonix 3. http://www.amazon.com/Lenntek-Earbuds-Braided-Microphone-SmartPhones/dp/B002AJL12U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;s=wireless&amp;qid=1278132225&amp;sr=1-4
Man, threading my ipod wires through the rope was a pain. Also i figured out why they were shorter then you had expected. The rope bunches as you thread it through, people may need to grab one end and pull the roper so it expands over the cord. Mine ended up to be about half the length of what i had expected. Nice Tut.
&quot;Having to cut and rejoin wires degrades audio quality.&quot; If you use high-quality silver solder, you will notice less of this effect. also, keeping all wires the same length and taking your time with the soldering will also help a lot.
I find this hard to believe. Sure 60/40 solder has about six times the resistivity of copper but the joint is so small and the currents so low that the power loss should be unnoticeable (in a properly wetted and mechanically secured joint). I have repaired many headphones with tin/lead solder and have never noticed a reduction in sound quality. Maybe I just don't have golden ears?
Consider my recent soldering of a new stereo jack to my audio player, I guess my soldering skills have improved vastly. I didn't know of using flux/cleaning of the tip until years later, so the quality drop should indeed be little if you're soldering correctly.
if you have to ask, then clearly you do not. JUST KIDDING! I have only worked with audio very little, and I do not claim to be any sort of expert on the issue. With that said, my friends who are into audio (the kind of guys who buy the $500 power cable for their vacuum-tube amp) SWEAR that using silver solder lends to better sound. I use it only because they said so, and since a small tube of ball solder with gel flux will last me forever for the small amount of audio work I do from time to time. I do know that the reason his channels drop out on one side is because one channel is higher impedance than the other--which is tricky to get right, because of the incredibly fine solder work that is required. in short, no. I don't know if the silver solder really does work that well, but when you are using such a small amount--why not use the 'good stuff'?
http://www.takefiveaudio.com/ Has nylon cable sleeving by the foot and other DIY audio cable stuff. Also from what i understand, you could also just buy a new 1/8th&quot; mini-plug and solder to that to retain audio quality.
This suggestion is feasible if your original cord is of the &quot;zip&quot; type for sleeving each of Left and Right after separating the pair (assuming the original Y-junction could be cut away), and then sleeving both at once through the common sleeve portion (which could be trickier than one rubbery cord given a tendency to twist/bulge), so those are the implications of this approach.
Really cool - now just to get my hands on some paracord! 5***** (don't you love your sansa c200? :)
I love my Rockbox'd sansa c240 so much that I'm sick of having to resolder the left channel's terminal of the SMT stereo jack :[ Maybe another instructable comes if I manage to more permanently fix that somehow...
nothing like soldering the headphone wires directly to the contacts, and using epoxy to secure the wire to the opening left by the jack. 100% trouble free audio since.
Since I was using the OEM earbuds for some time and disliked having to repair those so often (the cords were so weak), I ruled that out. I tend to favor having options, so I fixed it by replacing the jack (and posted that as another instructable! ;)
I bought some really expensive earcandy buds for cheap with a broken connector... while it was shipping to me the jack on my player broke... two birds with one stone and all that. :D
Ooooh, could you do an Instructable on that? I've known for awhile that is what's wrong with mine, but was too afraid to mess with it. Pretty please with a cherry on top?????
I must say &quot;The Perfectionist &quot; Awesome. I tried to pull this long time back but couldn't finish it. and This guide shows me I should get back to work again.
Dang, these look really nice. I need to do this.
Nice :) When I get around to putting silver cables on my Koss Portapros (buy low, mod high :D ) I'll probably do this as well.
You could always use shrink tube at the Y-junction it should keep the para cord together.
On a prototype where I joined the ends with superglue, before covering with heat shrink alone, it failed. When I use my cord, it is prone to tugging by accidental snags.
Very good idea. My wife's headphones always get tangled, I will propose this method. Isn't possible to do that without cutting the cable? Maybe using thicker paracord...
You could unsolder the wire at the speakers, but it's painful to figure out how to take apart the plastic when there's so many different models of headsets out there; I'd check if there's an existing guide for dismantling. There are surely some on this site. Also, I always assumed paracord only came in nearly one size, from all of the lanyardwork photos I've seen.
OMG! This is brilliant, I remember my field headset when I was in the service was like this. I can't believe it never clicked in my head. Great job! I'm working on one with white paracord and clear heat shrink tubing.
aha,time to do this on my earphones :D
any ideas on how to do this with out cutting my headphons cause im on my last pair that still works. thanks also this is really awesome
these are awesome!!! i want to make some white ones for my ipod
Thanks. good staff
Nice instructable and a GREAT idea. Doing this with my favourite headphones, wish me luck!
I had this EXACT idea during the paracord contest, glad too see it works.
HMM this is a good idea , i have 6ft of sleeving from some Broken DHC audio cables . woven carbon fiber ... Great Idea !!!!
Check out the forums, it's in the featured I'm running a headphones contest for a 3 month pro membership, that said getting featured means you just got one, however enter if you like.
Excellent, thank you. I have a few pairs that already have a corded wire &amp; never (well, seldom :) tangle. I have better sets I'll try your process on. Thanks again.
I LOVE THIS IDEA. i tried it with my skullcandy buds and they lasted twice as long as my previous pair 5.5 out of 5 STARS MAN&gt; THNX!!!

About This Instructable




Bio: Modder Accessorizer Dreamer
More by dyril:Make Popsicles using Baby Soda Bottles / Tube Vaults Replacing the stereo jack on Sansa c200 series Sleeving Earphone / Earbud Cords with Paracord 
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